What gardener, and not only the gardener, does not know sweet pepper, in common people called Bulgarian?
The plant is too fond of heat, so in the regions where weather conditions do not allow planting and growing it in open ground, this is done in greenhouses.
Planting pepper in the greenhouse
Currently, not home-made greenhouses are widespread, but polycarbonate greenhouses. They are quite tall, spacious and comfortable to use. There are various designs and lengths ranging from the simplest and, ending with options with automatic ventilation system.
Frameworks are made of a metal square profile of various thickness. The strength of the structure directly depends on the thickness of the frame profile. Polycarbonate also varies in sheet thickness and quality. Naturally, the price of greenhouses directly depends on their quality. But now it is not about greenhouses, although we can talk about them abound.
We will continue the main topic of the article on the preparation, planting and directly, the cultivation of sweet pepper in greenhouses made of polycarbonate. About the benefits of planting a culture in such a greenhouse, we have already casually mentioned. As you understand, the main advantage is enough space, and, therefore, convenience in grooming a familiar culture. Well, let's not get ahead, let's do everything in order.
A few words about sweet pepper
With its extraordinary taste, sweet pepper can hardly leave anyone indifferent. It is widely used, probably, in any national kitchen. Pepper can be eaten both raw and cooked, stewed, fried. It is eaten in salads, soups, stuffed with meat. But you never know what to do with it. If you get carried away with culinary talk, then we will not have time for the main thing.
Where should we start growing peppers? Since it should be planted in a greenhouse soil seedlings, the conclusion is obvious. First we need to germinate the seeds in small pots. But where to get quality seeds? What should they look like? After all, we strive to grow peppers not for the sake of beautiful leaves and fresh greens. We are primarily interested in the fruits. Many fruits!
In order for us to constantly have good seeds with excellent germination, it is necessary for the very first time to buy several varieties of seeds of high-yielding pepper. They are sold in pre-packaged paper bags. In the future, we can independently select seeds for planting from grown fruit. We will know which varieties are best for us and which ones should be removed from their greenhouses.
For the most accelerated germination, it is enough to place the seeds in a very wet gauze and maintain it in this form until the seeds are full. It should be mentioned that the gauze should always be in a warm place. Do not allow it to dry out, otherwise you will not see sprouts. Be patient, because at least a week will pass until the first shoots appear. It is also important to remember that seed germination should start on time. To do this, learn more about planting seedlings.
So, when our entire procedure is successfully completed and the seeds are filled, you will have a choice:
- Plant small sprouts immediately in the greenhouse soil.
- Or put them in pots for further germination.
I must say that the second option is more troublesome, but it has its advantages. Seedlings at home will get stronger, and, therefore, it will get better on its permanent place and further cultivation will be much easier.
Pepper planting scheme in polycarbonate greenhouse
Before your pepper seedlings are registered in a permanent warm hostel, it must be carefully prepared for settling. You should dig, loosen and fertilize the ground. Release it from weeds and unnecessary roots. If the greenhouse has already been used before planting peppers, then it is advisable to treat it from pests. After all, a capricious vegetable, does not tolerate such. It is also recommended to disinfect the soil, so that the pathogenic bacteria remaining from previous plants do not damage the seedlings.
Do not plant seedlings immediately after fertilizing the ground. Allow the fertilizer to dissolve a little in the soil.. Several types of fertilizer are commonly used..
- Wood ash.
- Manure slurry.
- Chicken droppings.
- Ammonium nitrate.
You can try out all the presented types one by one, or develop your own fertilizer application and focus on the one that contributes to higher yields.
Determine how to plant pepper in the greenhouse
If polycarbonate greenhouse is used for the first year, then beds should be prepared for planting peppers. There are no special requirements for the length of the beds, but try to observe a width of not more than 90 cm. Between rows of peppers you can withstand a distance not wider than 40 cm and 30 cm between the bushes of the seedlings. Do not try to shove as many seedlings as possible on the beds - this will not bring the desired result. After all, they need some space to grow. The main thing is to try to do everything correctly and as close as possible to the recommendations about planting peppers in the greenhouse.
It should be noted the importance not only of the soil itself, its preparation, but also the temperature inside the greenhouse and the temperature of the soil and air humidity. The temperature of the earth should not be below 15 degrees. A humidity of 70% - 80%. Here it should be said that the greenhouse made of polycarbonate is almost an ideal place for young peppers. After all, inside a closed room is relatively easy to maintain the specified parameters.
If let's say the air temperature in the greenhouse will hold 25-30 degreesthen it will have a beneficial effect on the yield of vegetables. Such wonderful conditions will allow peppers to ripen much faster and the fruits themselves will be much juicier and more pleasant to the taste.
As you can see, planting and cultivation of sweet pepper is quite easy to carry out, as it may seem at first glance. It is enough to adhere to a simple scheme of cultivation and care, and then you will succeed!
Another important aspect, without which getting a good harvest is hardly possible. Without timely and proper care your vegetables can wither even in comfortable conditions. So what else should you do? How to care for our peppercorn and bring them to a great productive harvest?
The main thing is to master the fact that when the seedlings begin to grow rapidly, it needs hilling and garter. Bushes are tied up so that the pepper does not fall to the ground, and stretched to the growth. About hilling, I think, it is unnecessary to speak in more detail. Formed young bushes, too, according to given rules.
First things first you need to tear off all the stepchildren and the leaves of the bottom row down to the first branch of the bush. Should remain a couple of shoots, and the rest of the flowers on the first shoot safely remove. As a result, your pepper bush will have one of the most powerful and healthy shoots. All the weak at the same time pinch mercilessly. It is necessary to clearly understand that these procedures are not a mockery of a plant, as it may seem at first. They contribute to the yield of peppers.
Approximately a month before the formation of the first peppers need to pinch all the tops of the bush. Thus, we must achieve a good harvest of large and juicy fruits.
Let's talk about how and how much you need to water our lover of heat
Our young friend is very indifferent to moisture. What do you think this hints at? You are absolutely right, pepper is required to water regularly and plentifully. Otherwise, the fruit may stall in growth, barely tied. Watch for the presence of moisture in the soil and keep it wet, so to speak, or else you will see a picture of yellowed and falling leaves and inflorescences on your favorite pepper bushes.
In hot weather, water not only the bushes, but also the gaps between them. This will help maintain the correct percentage of moisture in a polycarbonate greenhouse. However, try not to overdo it with watering. After all, excess moisture can also damage the pepper, as well as drying the soil. Only instead of dried leaves, you will see a stem rotting from the root, which will necessarily lead to the appearance of the disease and the death of the plant in the future.
The frequency of irrigation depends on the internal conditions in the greenhouse, as well as the pepper variety itself. On average, it is recommended to water the plant no more than once every two days.
Pepper care means not only watering, but also plant nutrition. The first time feeding is done before the seedlings are placed in the greenhouse soil. It enriches it with essential minerals and vitamins, so necessary for the normal growth of the vegetable and its yield.
The following feeding takes place between the second and third week after planting the seedlings. Pepper tufts by then should already have settled down well.
How to cook a top dressing yourself
Do not be scared. There is nothing difficult in the process of self-preparation of top dressing. It’s enough to have several components with you.. Add 10 grams of urea and 5 grams of superphosphate to a regular bucket of water (10-12 liters). Thoroughly mix a set of listed simple components. If desired, wood ash and a few drops of iodine are added to the resulting solution. Pour under the root of the bush about a liter.
Subsequent feeding is carried out after the appearance of the first flowers. Dilute the solution by analogy with the above and let it sit a little. The amount of solution is the same as the previous time.
And finallythe last feeding is done already after the fruit ripens almost before its gathering. You will be able to collect your unprecedented harvest within a week after the last feeding.
We will talk a little about the fight against diseases of the peppers
It should be noted that the cultivation of pepper in a greenhouse made of polycarbonate reduces the risk of disease by several times compared with planting in open ground. Yet the main aspect of the fight against disease is their prevention. To do this, think about the timely disinfection of the soil before planting seedlings. In extreme cases, you can remove the top layer of greenhouse soil to eliminate the dangerous pathogen.
Of the most common diseases, many gardeners recognize:
- Black spot.
- White rot.
- Late blight.
To eliminate these heinous signs of disease spray your plants with chemicals, bring them to the soil. (A solution of potassium permanganate is suitable for this). Thus, you will destroy all harmful microorganisms and fungi that infect the plant. The best is the use of drugs directional, because a definite panacea for all plant diseases does not exist.
So, following simple rules will surely lead you to good yield results. And over time, you can even become an expert in this matter, and you yourself will give advice on growing peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse.
At the end of our narrative, I would like to list several main varieties and hybrids of pepper grown both in greenhouses and in the open field.
It should be noted that in our time displayed a great variety of varieties and hybrids. All of them differ from each other in different levels of moisture absorption, survival rate, precociousness, resistance to diseases, growth of bushes, as well as the shape and juiciness of fruits. Therefore, it is quite difficult to choose any specific varieties. With time and experience you will surely get knowledge on this topic. And already give preference to certain varieties.
Specifically for polycarbonate greenhouses advise some varieties, for example, Boatswain, Raja, Avant-garde, Orange miracle, Tenderness, etc.
Perhaps you will choose one of the above for yourself, or you will find something of your own, that is not the point. The main thing is that everything will work out for you. Therefore, we wish you great harvests!
Varieties for planting peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse
Types of peppers differ in taste, size and shape of fruits, use in cooking, the method of cultivation and care for them:
- Amber ripens within 112 days from the readiness of the seedlings, the bush grows to 80–95 cm. On the stems are the average leaves and fruits in a mixed order. Ripe peppers weigh 110–115, they are distinguished by a thick and fleshy wall, green in technological ripeness, and orange-colored biologically ripe fruits.
- Cardinal F1 from the emergence of shoots to ripening, it grows 85–90 days, the height of the pepper bush is 1 meter Large, large cubic violet fruits with a wall thickness of up to 8 mm. The variety is resistant to tobacco mosaic disease. In good conditions, it gives from 8 to 13 kg per square bed.
- Yaroslav produces a crop for 120–125 days after germination. Ripe yellow peppers grow to 85 years, the wall is of medium thickness. The characteristics of the variety is resistance to Alternaria disease and wilt from Verticillus.
- Hybrid variety Orange miracle ripens at 105–110 days, Large fruits resemble orange cubes, their weight reaches 250 years, the fleshy wall is about 10 cm thick, and gives 8–14 kg per square meter of greenhouse depending on care.
- Huge fruits, weighing up to 400 years, ripen in polycarbonate greenhouses on the bushes varieties gladiator. Peppers are sweet, fleshy, yellow.
- Exotic variety Cardinal it has long been under conditions in our country, but the planting is done in standard time.
- Ruby variety differs from other species in late maturation, which occurs at 165–172 days after emergence of shoots. The plant reaches 55 cm, brings flat-rounded fruits with 120 gg of weight.
Features planting peppers in greenhouses
Before planting peppers in a greenhouse made of polycarbonate, it is necessary to prepare the ground, in the greenhouse this consists in arranging the soil layer in the garden bed.
If earlier pumpkins, cabbage, onions, carrots and zucchini were planted there, then such soil is most suitable for planting peppers. Sometimes it is transferred to a greenhouse from an open bed.
In a greenhouse made of polycarbonate, a mold and a fungus can develop in the beds, such land is collected and removed from the room, and then the bed is treated. For aeration and enrichment with nutrients, fresh manure is added to the fresh soil or compost, which is prepared during the year, is prepared with fertilizers with minerals.
In greenhouse conditions, the landing of the pepper is done on the beds or in dense bags of polyethylene, where a special mixture of soil is loaded.
Preparing pepper seedlings for planting
The technical characteristics of the plant are such that the germination of the plant is slow, so planting seeds for germination begins in February.
To do this, pick up shallow containers, it is better if they are wide. The soil before planting is fertilized so that the first shoots can be seen within two weeks.
The general term of cultivation of seedling lasts a month. Seeding shoots produced after the appearance on the stalks of two leaves. Planting shoots produce two shoots in one pot of peat. Watering is carried out carefully, but rarely, so as not to flood the ground in pots. The soil is loosened every day for oxygenation. Planting in the greenhouse beds is carried out in early April, when the seedlings are strong, and there are ovaries on it, at this place the bush continues to grow until fruiting.
In artificially heated greenhouses, it is allowed to plant pepper seeds directly into the ground, but if the room is without heating and the walls are made of polycarbonate, then you need to wait for the soil to warm up to 18–20 ° C and plant the seedlings. As mentioned above, two methods are assumed:
- landing in the ground on the garden,
- landing in a plastic bag.
Planting in prepared beds
In a greenhouse, I call the bed a layer of earth raised 20–22 cm above the ground, with paths between them for ease of processing.
The size and number of beds in the room is selected individually, taking into account the overall size of the polycarbonate greenhouse. Raised beds are made in the edging of wood or galvanized metal.
Along the length of the beds do the entire length of the greenhouse, for long plantings sometimes provide for transverse passes.
The width of the beds is equal to two adult bushes with a gap between them, which is equal to 30 cm. Shrubs planted closer will give each other a shadow, they are inconvenient to process and harvest. Honey beds are made passages 80 cm wide and more, this technological passages for ease of maintenance of plants.
Individual package drop conditions
Such conditions are created when planting in tight packages of waterproof material. The formation of the beds is not made, and the roots of the bush are completely isolated from the surrounding conditions.
Temperature variations during the day are smoothed out due to the greenhouse effect that occurs inside the bag.
The fertile soil is placed in a bag, for which a hole is dug in the main ground to the level of the top of an improvised plastic bag.
This method helps the owner of the greenhouse in the event that it is not possible to change the bad land completely in the greenhouse or if there is no time, and the land is properly cultivated in the packages. The surrounding soil remains without treatment and does not require labor and time.
При первом или втором способе высадки рассаду помещают в почву или мешок с теми же торфяными горшочками, в которых развивалась поросль. Перечные ростки плохо относятся к пересадке, и тревожить их без причины не нужно. Peat pot plays the role of gradually soluble additional fertilizer for the roots of the pepper bush.
Dig a hole in the size of the pot or take the package, given its size. After penetration into the soil, the surface is not severely rammed, because after several waterings, it will compact itself.
Forming a bush
Overgrown bushes cut through, and immediately after disembarkation, the lower two or three leaves are cut, care in the form of pruning is required all the time. Be sure to form the bushes. The plant has a single stem, only after the development of the ninth leaflet, it begins to split in two, it is recommended to clean the stem from the leaves until the fork. If at this time there are buds on the bush, then they are removed to avoid rotting. Even if such a bud will have normal characteristics, then with the development it will pull nutrients on itself, and the stem will stop growing.
The formation of the bush is made by clearing the weak shoots, while leaving two or three trunks. If a weak plant develops nearby, then four stalks are left. On the left shoots should be the ovary, the stems without the ovary to be removed.
Be sure to perform this procedure because of the fragility of the plant. The garter is made to the ready mounted trellis and is made very carefully. Sometimes pegs are used in the process. Regarding the removal of unnecessary foliage, there are eternal disputes between specialists. But the conclusion is that if the greenhouse is heated or disembarking is carried out in warm time, then the sheets are removed without worrying about the consequences.
The garter is made and the leaves are removed, since the nutrients are distributed evenly to all parts of the plant and the extra leaves take them away from the fruits for which they are needed. In order not to shock the bush, the pruning and removal of the underdeveloped buds are carried out alternately within 2-3 days.
Root system care
The root of the bush is located at a depth of no more than 20 cm from the surface, so the ground is loosened carefully, trying not to damage it. The main points of root care:
- for loosening choose small rakes, which easily maneuver between plants, without touching them (once a week),
- fertilizing is done regularly (after 14 days),
- mineral fertilizers are introduced regularly to ensure balanced growth.
Watering and fertilizer
For irrigation, take calcium nitrate and make an aqueous solution (per liter put 1 g). After the picking procedure, add to the solution potassium nitrate, watering is carried out once every 14 days. When two leaves appear on the stem, the plant is fed with ammonium nitrate. After watering, the soil must be loosened, the earth does not require loosening if the watering occurs by the drip method.
Intensive growth of the root system occurs before the beginning of the ovary of the fruit, so the food at this time is of primary importance for the plant. In the period after the landing in the greenhouse bed they use the Radifarm rooting stimulator, which is taken to a bucket of 250 g for irrigation.
Re-watering with this mixture is done through 7–10 days, the rate of the drug is reduced to 200 g. Further fertilizing consists of root irrigation with Master (150–190 years per 10 liters) and foliar irrigation with mineral complex preparations, which are diluted in a glass into a bucket of water. Sodium HUMATE is actively used, root is taken for root feeding. 10–16 years substances on a bucket of water.
Creating the required microclimate
As with any other plant, the microclimate matters, and the heating of the soil plays a primary role compared to the temperature of the air environment. In the ground, the thermometer should show 19–22 ° C, and these conditions should be observed at night within 14 days after disembarkation.
For the active development of the bush need lighting for 12–14 hours a day. If the lighting is organized for a longer period, the formation of buds is delayed. In addition, soil moisture plays a role. The greatest watering is required during the ripening period of the fruit, for this the drip irrigation method is best suited. It is better to water at the beginning of the day and with warm water heated in air to a temperature 25 ° C.
Pepper loves moist air, so when planting pepper in a polycarbonate greenhouse, one should not forget about artificial moistening. For this, the surfaces in the greenhouse (walls, paths, heating devices) are moistened with a hose irrigation watering can.
Pest and Disease of Pepper Bushes
The main way is good care, changing the type of plants in the garden, isolation from other cultures of the nightshade. With pests fight plant solutions with disastrous properties for them:
Destroy pests and destruction, collect them from the leaves of the plant. The main enemies of pepper bushes:
Pepper is sick with late blight and blackleg. Many varieties are resistant to various diseases, but Previkur is used to help the plant (spraying with a solution of 15 ml per 10 l), they are eliminated from pests with Nurel-d, Karate Zeon, Altex.
The best varieties for closed ground
This plant of the Solanaceae family has much in common with potatoes and tomatoes. Therefore, the growth conditions of these crops in the greenhouse are approximately the same.
Currently, there are many greenhouse varieties of pepper, which differ in terms of fruit ripening, growing conditions, as well as the shape, color and taste of the fruit.
The most popular among gardeners are hybrids:
- Orange miracle
- Winnie the Pooh,
- California miracle, etc.
When choosing a variety or an F1 hybrid, be sure to pay attention - it must be written on the seed package that the variety is intended for closed ground - this means that it will be exactly the same variety - without over-pollination.
> Sowing seeds of pepper for seedlings at the end of winter. Before sowing, seeds are pre-sowing treatment.
- First, they are immersed in a weakly concentrated solution of potassium permanganate for thirty minutes. Then the planting material is processed by one of the growth stimulants - Epin, Zircon or Albit.
- Additional and final treatment of seeds is necessary in order to protect the seedlings in the future from fungal infection. For these purposes, the drug Immunofit.
- The treated seeds are sown in special containers for seedlings. The optimal seed embedment depth is one and a half centimeters.
Care for crops and seedlings of pepper
For successful germination, seedlings require special care, namely, a stable temperature regime within twenty-five to thirty degrees of heat. To do this, use the shelter as a transparent polyethylene or glass.
After the seedlings have ascended, after about a couple of weeks, the temperature of the seedlings content is lowered to fifteen to eighteen degrees. In such conditions, seedlings contain throughout the week to grow.
After a week, the temperature is raised to twenty-five to twenty-eight degrees Celsius. As soon as the seedlings get stronger and release a pair of leaves, it dives into separate pots or disposable cups.
- The first feeding of seedlings of peppers is carried out at the stage of the appearance of three leaves. A mixture of one hundred and twenty grams of superphosphate, thirty grams of potassium salt and fifty grams of urea is used as nutrition. The resulting mixture was adjusted to a volume of ten liters with water.
- At the stage of the fourth-fifth sheet, additional lighting is provided to the peppers using fluorescent or LED lamps. During this period, plants need to provide twelve-hour daylight.
- The second seedling fertilizer is carried out at the stage of appearance of the fourth leaf with the same fertilizer as in the first case.
- The third feeding of seedlings is the most important, since during this period the peppers begin to form the organs on which the quality and abundance of the future harvest depends. Such nutrition is carried out when the plants release seven to eight leaves.
Planting pepper to a permanent place in the greenhouse
For all the time from the moment of germination of seedlings and until the planting of seedlings in the greenhouse, in the pots sprinkle the soil two or three times. Before planting in a greenhouse, seedlings undergo a process of adaptation to new conditions of detention.
Hardening of plants is carried out daily with a gradual increase in the time they spend in the fresh air or in the greenhouse. On the night of landing entered into the room. In order for peppers to adapt more quickly to new growing conditions, they are fed with potassium salt before planting.
Epin is an excellent growth stimulator, which increases the resistance of plants to adverse conditions and improves the quality of the crop. Therefore, a day before planting seedlings treated with this drug.
Transplantation of peppers in the greenhouse is carried out in the middle or at the end of March. By this time, the plants will have a thick stalk about twenty-five centimeters high and will release twelve to fourteen leaves, in the axils of which flower buds will already form.
Site preparation for planting this culture is carried out in the autumn. The soil is fertilized with phosphorus and potassium - forty grams of each substance with the addition of thirty grams of nitrogen. This amount of fertilizer is calculated on a plot of 1 m2. It is not recommended to fertilize the soil with organic matter, which inhibits the flowering of peppers and contributes to the growth of green mass.
The scheme of optimal planting peppers
Before planting seedlings, one meter ridge with a half-meter row spacing is pulled out at the site. The distance between plants depends on the varietal characteristics of the pepper. Tall hybrids are planted at a distance of thirty-five centimeters from each other. For sredneroslyh maintain a distance of twenty-five centimeters. Low-growing hybrids is quite enough distance of fifteen centimeters.
Planting seedlings is carried out in a pre-dug and well-hydrated pits. After planting, the soil around the plants is slightly compacted and mulched with a layer of humus or peat.
How to prepare the soil for planting pepper seedlings in the greenhouse
Pepper is a very capricious culture, it is very picky about the ambient temperature, the amount of light and water, but above all - to the soil on which it grows.
In the process of preparing the greenhouse for planting pepper from polycarbonate, most of the actions are done on the soil. The soil on which the plant is planned to be planted must be loose, fertile, soft and airtight. It should also be cleaned of excess vegetation: weeds, and remnants of the root system, from past plantings. In addition, it is necessary to use tools that will destroy insects that harm normal growth of pepper.
Mineral fertilizers should be used, as a rule, it is manure. However, they should not be showered with soil, because in this case, its concentration can be detrimental to the seeds.
When using chicken manure, it is necessary to dilute it in water in the following ratio: add 0.5 liters of manure to 8-10 liters of water. Such actions are quite easily performed independently. Before planting pepper in a greenhouse made of polycarbonate with this method of processing, you need to wait at least 2 weeks.
In addition to manure to fertilize the soil, you can use the following:
- Ammonium nitrate,
- Potassium sulfate,
- Double superphosphate.
In the event that in the ground on which a plant is planted, another type of culture has previously grown, it is recommended to sanitize the greenhouse.
When is it best to plant pepper
The main point when landing in an unheated greenhouse is to determine at what time the time of spring frosts will stop (at the time of landing, the temperature of the soil at which the plant will grow should not be less than 15 degrees). As a rule, this occurs towards the end of May. In the case of early Easter warming may be earlier. When this happens, you can safely start planting peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse. However, in a heated greenhouse, you can start planting peppers in February and March. But you shouldn’t rush too much with this case, otherwise “re-growing the seedlings” may occur.
Pepper seedlings are also considered ready to be planted in the case in which it already has from 12 to 14 leaves, and the development of buds is observed in the leaf axils. As a result, healthy seedlings are distinguished by a thick stem, which reaches a height of 25 centimeters and a rich green color. Note that the age of the seedlings of pepper should not be less than 55 days.
How to plant seedlings in a polycarbonate greenhouse? And at what distance should it be located?
Not every gardener knows how to properly plant peppers in a greenhouse. And also about how important the distance at which peppers should be between themselves. In this matter, you must listen to the opinion of professional agronomists. Next we look at how this should be done according to all the rules.
- You can plant seedlings in a polycarbonate greenhouse directly into peat cups, which, after a certain period of time, decompose and allow the root system of the pepper to grow over the distance it needs.
- Be sure to take into account the fact that a large number of small branches and leaves can grow on the stem, which will take all the useful substances out of the ground and the pepper will not receive the necessary elements. To prevent this, you should tear off these leaves and twigs.
- Pepper planting is possible without using peat cups directly into the soil. To do this, it is necessary to make deep holes in the ground or beds for each seedling (it is convenient to use for this a small shovel or chopper with pointed ends).
- The depth of the pits on which plants should be placed depends on the size of their root system.
- When the distance between plants is chosen, the norms for certain varieties or their hybrids should be considered. It is strictly forbidden to place the plants close to each other: such a scheme will only lead to the fact that the plants will constantly receive less the amount of light they need.
- Plus, if the distance between the peppers is too short, the ideal conditions for the emergence of infectious diseases that are extremely difficult to cope in protected soil conditions will be created. Caring for plants in overly thickened plantings gives the gardener a lot of trouble, and inadvertently damaged some parts of the plants.
It is best to grow the plants at a distance of 30 to 40 centimeters from each other - this is the most correct planting scheme, which will allow the peppers to grow normally, and you will ease the care of the bushes. Small-sized peppers, as a rule, are seated near the side walls of the greenhouse. Although the height in this zone of the greenhouse is not as high as in the middle, it does not do any harm to the peppers.
Consider also the fact that the fruits of pepper have a large enough weight, for this reason, after you have finished planting peppers in a greenhouse, the height of which varies from 40 to 50 centimeters, they will need to be tied up. For this purpose, a wooden stick or small armature is inserted near each bush. Then, using a soft rope or cloth, lightly wrap the stem of the plant (one turn) and tie it to the pole.
There is no need to water just planted plants, because three days before planting in the soil they had already been irrigated. Pepper is fertilized as needed, to determine when the plant needs feeding, you need to observe the growth of its fruits. Usually, the first fruits can appear as early as 1.5-2 weeks after planting.
So we looked at how the landing of the pepper in a greenhouse made of polycarbonate. I would like to hope that this article was useful for you and will assist you in such a difficult, but such an interesting and exciting business as gardening. Have a good harvest!
Preparing greenhouses for planting peppers
Pepper is a very demanding culture. Before transplanting young plants or planting seeds in a polycarbonate greenhouse, it is necessary to conduct a series of activities that contribute to the better development of the culture.
If the greenhouse has already been in operation earlier, the soil in it must be prepared. It should be soft and loose, cleaned from weeds and root systems of plants that had previously grown. To increase the fertility of the soil, it is necessary to immediately apply organic and mineral fertilizers such as:
- chicken droppings
- slurry or dry manure,
- pine or birch ash,
- ammonium nitrate,
Important! Do not plant the plant immediately after fertilization in the soil. The earth must be fed and prepared.
When the greenhouse is new and used for the first time, then sanitation is not required, and if there has already been a culture there, it is necessary to treat the premises from the parasites. Pepper does not tolerate pests and when they hit the leaves, immediately begins to wither. Soil disinfection should also be carried out, since after the previous crops, bacteria could remain in the ground. От которых может пострадать растение.
Также если теплица из поликарбоната не использовалась раньше, необходимо сделать правильные грядки. Длину грядок можно делать произвольно, насколько допускает теплица, а вот расстояние между грядками желательно делать не более 90 см.
Выбор сорта перца
В настоящее время существует очень много сортов перца. Разными агрофирмами культивированы как полноценные сорта, так и их гибриды. They differ from each other by the degree of adaptability, moisture absorption, growth, and finally, the shape and fleshyness of the fruit.
For large industrial complexes, tall large-fruited hybrid varieties of pepper are selected; their height reaches 2 m. And in small greenhouses, varieties 1 m high are most often used.
In greenhouses made of polycarbonate, it is best to plant pepper varieties such as Avangard, Boatsman, Raja, etc. The peculiarity of these varieties is that they have sparse bush habit, i.e. their branching is limited to three separate processes, with a small number of leaves on them . It promotes the best passing of sunshine. These varieties can reduce the cost of additional care for the formation of plants by more than 30%. They are well ventilated and have high yields. Fruits are tied within 100-120 days from germination. Landing density - per 1 m 2 not more than 3 pcs.
Also for small greenhouses suitable varieties such as Centurion, Accord, Pinocchio, Barguzin, Cornet. They are resistant to external rot. Ovary starts already on the 90th day. Fruits are thick-skinned and fleshy, the mass of each reaches 150-170 g, contains an increased concentration of vitamin C and carotene. Another difference of these varieties is that they have self-regulation of the shoots, i.e. they do not release branches where they are not needed. The density of planting of such species - per 1 m 2, not more than 5 pcs.
From varieties of hot pepper for the greenhouse is suitable Astrakhan. Its ripening period lasts about 120 days. Fruit weight up to 120 g, the skin is very rough and thin. Low-growing culture - 50-60 cm. Density of planting - per 1 m 2 not more than 8 pcs.
Important! Do not plant sweet peppers near spicy. Plants are pollinated, and instead of sweet there is a chance to get sharp and vice versa.
Features of the landing of pepper in a polycarbonate greenhouse
Planting seedlings of peppers in the greenhouse is carried out when the seedling on the strengthened plant from 10 to 13 formed green leaves, and developing buds can be seen in the axils. The height of the seedlings of pepper when planting in a greenhouse should not be less than 25 cm.
When planting pepper in the greenhouse, it is important to consider the distance at which the bushes are from each other. A few tips from experienced agronomists will help you cope with the difficulties encountered when planting a crop in a polycarbonate greenhouse:
- Land in the greenhouse directly in the peat cup. After some time, the cup will decompose, but at the same time it will keep the root system from excessive growth.
- Break off the stepsons in time (small shoots and leaves on the trunk under the main twigs). The fruits of them will not develop, but they pull a lot of nutrients.
- When choosing the distance between seedlings, consider the characteristics of each of the varieties.
Consider that when you plant peppers too close to each other, seedlings do not receive enough light. Under such conditions, an ideal environment is created for the development of infectious diseases. Also difficult to care for thickened plantings. The gardener should inspect the bush from all sides, and with thick seating it is not possible.
Tip! Do not plant the beds too often. The minimum distance between peppers should be 35–40 cm. This will provide the necessary care and will enable each bush to develop normally.
Very often, to increase the profitability of the greenhouse, greens are planted together with pepper. In contrast, green crops are unpretentious in care and serve as a seal for planting in a greenhouse. Growing sorrel and spinach, dill, lettuce and even onions is allowed with the pepper.
Pepper loves not only sunlight, but also warmth. In order for our capricious culture to feel comfortable, it is necessary to create favorable conditions for it. The plant does not like temperature drops. When the temperature drops below + 18 ° C, a slower growth of the seedling is noticed. This, of course, is not destructive, but much more time is spent on the development of the plant.
When planting seedlings, the air in the greenhouse warms up no lower than + 22 ° C, and the soil - +14 - + 16 ° C. At night it should not be colder than +17 - + 18 ° C. During the period of active growth of the plant and fruit ovary, the air temperature should be +27 - + 28 ° C.
Watering and fertilizing greenhouse pepper
Watering pepper produced at the root. Since the plant has a feature of self-pollinating, you should not use rain watering, it will lead to sterilization of the crop and the lack of harvest.
The plant loves water. It is especially in need of watering during the flowering period, the ovary and the fruit is poured. If at this time to allow drying of the soil, the flowering on the bushes will dry and fall off, and the fleshy and large fruits will become thin and small.
The optimal solution for watering - drip system. As a plant grows, the amount of water increases from 1 l to 2 l per bush. Do not use cold water. It should be heated to the soil temperature in the greenhouse. Several times a month you can add mineral fertilizer complex to the water.
There are several main stages of feeding:
- 25 days after planting pepper in the ground. Use a mixture of superphosphate, urea and water. At 10 liters of water, use no more than 10 g of urea, and the superphosphate is half that. Watering is done in the evening, 1 l per bush.
- In the period of the appearance of the first buds. At this stage, it is better to use a mixture of superphosphate (10 g) and potassium sulfate (3 g) per 10 liters of water. You should also pour 1 l. mixes under each plant.
- During the collection of the first crop, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer is used. At 10 liters of water add 1 tsp. phosphorus and potassium, poured under a bush of 1 liter.
Important! The first dressing is made not earlier than 25-30 days after planting, and then fertilizer should be applied every 7-10 days.
Do not make a lot of organic fertilizer, such as dung or chicken manure, from which the plant will begin to grow leaves, which will negatively affect the amount of the harvested crop. Dilute such fertilizers with water and let them ferment, otherwise they will burn the roots of the seedlings.
Symptoms of diseases and treatment of greenhouse pepper
With inadequate care, the pepper may be exposed to a number of diseases. If in a greenhouse made of polycarbonate for a long time there is increased humidity, the disease will not take long. It is necessary to carefully observe the seedlings. Any deviation of the appearance of the leaf, fruit or stem is a cause for concern.
Carefully study the seedlings for diseases.
Black pepper leg. Observed dimming and constriction on the root neck. The disease is fungal and spreads rapidly, affecting the roots of the plant. Fight against fungus disinfecting greenhouse, replacing the affected soil, and also not allowing an increase in humidity.
Black Bacterial Spot. Manifested by the appearance of black spots on the foliage of pepper. The disease spreads quickly throughout the plant and affects every seedling in the greenhouse. Later on, the spots are formed on the stems, and the fruits become covered with small watery tubercles, similar to blisters. It leads to the death of the plant. The disease develops as a result of non-compliance with the temperature regime, namely the increase in ambient temperature. The fight is carried out with the help of chemicals, as well as changing the soil and removing the affected plants from the greenhouse.
Late blight pepper. The disease affects the fruit, stalks and crown of the crop. As a result - completely destroys the plant. It appears dark spots with a light green edging. There is a disease with a sharp decrease in temperature at night, and high humidity. The main method of control is seed treatment and spraying of plants with a solution of Bordeaux liquid 1%.
White rot. It appears whitish bloom on the basal part of the stem, forming a hardening in its inner part. Thanks to the hardening, the supply of nutrients to the plant crown is blocked, and it dies. The disease occurs due to non-compliance with the temperature during planting seedlings (the temperature was much lower than + 20 ° C), as well as excessive humidity. Defeat the disease will help timely and competent watering, sprinkling of damaged areas with chalk powder or coal dust, treatment with chemicals of chemical origin and covering the soil with a protective layer (mulching).
Mosaic on pepper. The disease manifests itself as a result of mechanical damage to the plant during transplantation, garter or picking. The source may be contaminated soil or seeds. Manifested on the leaves stained, from yellow to dark green.
If you identify the disease at an early stage and carry out a series of measures to eliminate it, you can save both the plant and the fruit. Do not let everything take its course.
Consider that for proper care, the pepper as a result will thank you for a rich and healthy harvest.
Growing sweet pepper in the greenhouse: photo
- Pasony grades of sweet pepper in the greenhouse
- How to properly care for the pepper in the greenhouse
- Recommendations for growing a rich crop of pepper in a polycarbonate greenhouse
- The technology of growing sweet peppers in the polycarbonate country greenhouse
What kind of fertilizer best perceive greenhouse pepper? How best to contribute?
After planting the peppers in the greenhouse, they need to be fed not immediately, but after 12–15 days, when the seedlings begin to bloom.
The most correct is to use ... read more
Ensuring comfort and frost protection
Planting pepper in a polycarbonate greenhouse is a crucial task, you need to follow a number of rules
First, in a polycarbonate greenhouse it is necessary to prepare the soil, think over the irrigation system. Watering is extremely important - if after planting the seedlings fall into overdried soil, the result will be extremely negative (the pepper does not tolerate this much, as well as the tomatoes).
A small comparison can be made between these cultures: tomato seedlings in their first month of life in greenhouse conditions create a very dense clot of roots that covers a fairly large area of the ridge. With peppers everything is different - after planting, the plant additionally starts only weak lateral roots, the main stem is absent here. A powerful root system develops only when the first bud of a flower appears.
Pepper seedlings need favorable conditions - even more than any other crop.
As a result, the gardener can only count on the following: when the seedlings of the peppers are planted in the greenhouse, the roots in the loose soil will occupy a layer of up to 300 mm, and if the soil is dense, they will go only 200 mm, no deeper. Additional roots will grow extremely slowly, the plants will react painfully to any lack of nutrition or moisture.
For all these reasons, the humidity in the greenhouse for peppers should be at the level of 70%, otherwise all young ovaries and flowers will fall off in hot weather. That is why this culture coexists well with cucumbers - they are also overseas residents.
The problem is that all these subtleties need to be known in advance, think through before the spring comes and the sowing season comes.
Moving without stress: planting peppers seeds
Someone sows seeds in a greenhouse - then you can not worry about the upcoming transplant
It is most convenient to sow pepper on seedlings directly in the greenhouse, and from there the professionals transplant it directly to the ridges. So the plant will be free from stress (and transportation is always a problem, like changing the soil, microclimate). Pepper is afraid of all this, and more than any other domesticated plant.
Pepper seeds are planted on seedlings in the twentieth of February; it is customary to continue these works until March tenth. A lot also depends on the greenhouse and on the variety, but each summer resident calculates the dates on his own, depending on the period when the crop should be received.
It's time to talk in detail about everything: let's talk about what to do step by step, how to plant pepper in a greenhouse with seeds.
But before - preparatory work, without them nowhere:
- First you need to choose the seeds - all the weak-looking ones clean up immediately,
- Further, all that remains is to be disinfected - if the manufacturer has not done this work himself before (if everything is done properly, there must be a corresponding mark on the package),
- To disinfect the seeds of the peppers, they do this: they sew a small bag of gauze, place the seeds in it, then all this must be dropped into the fungicide solution (there are several of them in the market - Vitaros, Maxim and not only). If potassium permanganate is on hand, it can also be safely used for such purposes. We need to get a pink solution, drown the seeds in it for thirty minutes.
Before planting, seeds are carefully selected, processed, prepared
- After such manipulations, the seeds are thoroughly washed and dried. However, pepper responds best to soaking in Épinay. We must take 100 ml of water, dissolve a couple of drops of the substance in it and soak the seeds for 12 hours,
- Then they are laid out between the layers of a damp clean cloth, covered. Put on a week or two in a clean place (the temperature at the same time should be 25 degrees) - until, until you click through,
- For future seedlings of pepper, the soil can be easily taken directly from greenhouse beds. Washed sifted sand is also needed - three parts of the soil is ½ part,
- Hatching seeds are sown on time, because the peppers are extremely tender roots, they can be easily damaged.
Cassette technologies are becoming popular today. Their essence is simple - each seedling has its own recess: a small one, approximately from a thimble. This lump in the future without any problems transplanted into the pot. This method is easiest to use directly in the greenhouse, and not on the apartment window sill, where dry hot air is always supplied from the batteries.
Pepper seeds should be properly planted so:
- Take any dishes, thoroughly washed with a solution of potassium permanganate,
- The tank is filled with soil mixture, it is slightly compacted. It is important that the side of the saucer be higher than the substrate level — about 20 mm,
- The seeds that have been spiked are gently folded with tweezers in such a way that there is a distance of 15-20 mm between them. Planting thicker is not necessary - the pepper needs light, if it is not enough - the seedlings will begin to stretch, it should not be allowed,
- On top, once again everything is filled with soil mixture, a layer of about 10-15 mm. Consolidate again. Watered carefully - it is necessary to ensure that the seeds are not washed out of the soil surface
- A gardener can make labels where the names of varieties are written - so that later it would be convenient to follow which of them gives the best result,
- A temperature of 25 degrees is maintained in the greenhouse, and the crops are lightly covered from light. When the first shoots appear, the temperature can be lowered to 16-18 degrees, and the seedlings should be open to the sun.
What to do next? It is only necessary to light up the seedlings, rotate it 180 degrees from time to time - so that it does not stretch strongly. So continue to care for seedlings until they have a real third piece. Then a picking is done - either for the beginning in large pots, or in greenhouse ridges at once: for whom it is more convenient.
Placing bushes close to each other is not recommended - there may be a shortage of light
Now, if the owner has noticed that the seedbed leaves of his seedlings have started to die, you need not worry - this is quite normal. The point is this: the stem is thickening, the cotyledon leaves have already completed their task - they have broken through the ground. For plants, the main task now is the formation of a good root system.
Pepper root is able to grow to a depth of 0.6-0.8 m. Only after this mark horizontal branches begin to appear. In the same tomatoes everything is completely different, although visually the bushes look about the same.
In a greenhouse, it is customary to plant peppers as seedlings, and when they are transplanted, the root breaks. That is, in the ridge he hardly reaches 0.4 m.
Because of all this, when growing seedlings in a greenhouse, soil fertility should be maximized. And if you plant seeds - unrest and labor will need less than an order of magnitude.
Planting peppers in the greenhouse seedlings: tricks and subtleties
Pepper seedlings will also give excellent results if the gardener complies with all recommendations.
What if the greenhouse is not heated and get the pepper from the seeds in it will not work with all the desire? This is not a reason for rejecting such a wonderful vegetable: if you follow the technology, adhere to certain recommendations, the seedlings will be planted ideally, which will eventually yield a rich harvest.
Peppers for a permanent place are planted in a polycarbonate greenhouse in mid-April - up to the twentieth number, provided that the seedlings are ready completely.
To begin with - the preparation of greenhouse ridges
Under the landing of greenhouse land is better to prepare in advance:
- Smokes are made to make in the fall under the digging. Kuryak called sphinched manure. Each m 2 requires approximately 1 bucket,
- In the spring, just before the spring seedlings are planted, a second digging is done. There is already necessary to add dolomite flour. For 1 m 2 is enough 1 cup. Plus, some amount of potassium sulfate, superphosphate - on the packaging, usually everything is described in detail.
It all starts with the preparation of the soil - at this stage, many make mistakes
Интересный момент – тропические перцы настолько нежные, что холодных и тяжёлых почв они не любят. Следовательно, если в теплице глинистый грунт, в него стоит добавить торф, перегной. После этого землю перекапывают на штык лопаты, разравнивают – получается отлично.
Прежде чем рассаду перцев высадить в теплицу, надо выполнить такие действия:
- Лунку поливают обильно горячей водой (температура должна составлять около 70 градусов),
- Next, you need to wait until the water is slightly absorbed, cool slightly.
If the climatic conditions in the region are harsh, they try to grow seedlings with a large root system - then the chance of getting a bountiful harvest increases significantly.
Picks in place: use more, less stress
There will be no difficulty with picking if the peppers grew right in the greenhouse
Peppers dive at the stage of cotyledon leaves just for the polycarbonate greenhouse - where the air temperature can be immediately reduced by turning off the heat, and the plant is opened for gentle sunlight.
Almost immediately the seedlings form a dense and short subfloor knee, but if grown on the windowsill of a house, such seedlings will begin to stretch. Therefore, the methods may be different - it all depends on the conditions in which the host is engaged in his seedlings, what opportunities he has.
We will talk in more detail about how to properly dive seedlings of peppers in the greenhouse, which affects the future well-being of this beautiful vegetable and the yield indicator:
- It is necessary to prepare small pots. The seedlings in them quickly create an earthy clod with roots, so during the watering nothing sours, you can not be afraid of root rot,
- During transplantation, seedlings are taken only for “ears” so that the delicate stem does not deform. Prepare the wells in such a way that the roots were placed in them freely, not bent. They are covered with soil and slightly compacted. Approximately 5 mm deep root of the neck,
- Watering is carried out, in the process the seedling is gently held - until all the water is soaked. Directly here the earth is getting enough, because of the watering she has just sunk,
- Greenhouses transfer peppers to a shaded place (for example, you can take it to a vestibule or cover it up with something). Seedlings in the first few days require protection from direct sunlight. It is important to ensure that the soil does not cool in the pots, there should not be less than 15 degrees. Already at 13 degrees, the growth of seedlings completely stops - no need to forget about it.
Such a seedling is capricious, but all the work will pay off many times a tasty harvest.
You should not choose a too spacious container for pepper seedlings - such a soil needs a lot of water, it turns sour - the roots of this plant are weak, they will not quickly take up moisture. Maintain water mode in bulk containers is difficult.
The conclusion is simple: a smaller container is better suited. Here the pepper will be able to easily form an earthy clod with roots and everything will pass without problems.
Basically, that's all. Before the seedlings will be transferred to the beds, it needs to be fed twice - after picking two weeks later, two weeks after the first feeding - this is more than enough.
Landing on a permanent place
Before planting seedlings in a greenhouse for two weeks, it must be hardened directly in the fresh air. On the first day, two hours is enough.
Seedlings taken to harden in the fresh air - otherwise there will be difficulties with peppers
If the dimensions of a polycarbonate greenhouse are standard (3 by 6 m), a good landing pattern will be like this: three rows are made, a distance of 35 cm is maintained between them, an interval of 45 cm is also required between plants. Other options are also there, much depends on what sort Pepper planted.
It is much easier to care for greenhouse peppers if you plant them across the rows and not along them. Additionally, you need to make fertilizer in each well.
When the pepper is planted in the greenhouse, it is important to consider: the root neck should be located at the level of the ground surface. As soon as the earthen room is installed, the hole can be filled up a little more than 50%, then water is poured into the hole — 1/3 of a bucket, that’s enough. When water is absorbed, the rest of the hole is covered with loose earth. Then you need to grind peat - and the work is done.
How to water properly planted seedlings
The good news is that the area of ground nutrition for pepper is needed by an order of magnitude smaller compared to tomatoes or eggplants.
After transplanting, watering is done with utmost care.
- Before the shoots appear, it is necessary to water the seedlings of peppers approximately every other day - per m 2,
- During germination up to the first real leaflet - twice a day, about 7 liters of water are spent per m 2,
- After the formation of the first foliage - once a couple of days, where for every m 2 they spend 15 liters of liquid.
It is necessary to water carefully - it is enough to water the pepper seedlings with cold water only once, and its development will stop for several weeks, which no host exactly wants. Application of dressings is carried out in liquid form. Usually used such as: "Fertika Lux", "Mortar", "Agricola".
So, the seedlings of pepper have been planted - what is next? This is not the end of the work. The most interesting thing begins - the stage at which mistakes should not be made, otherwise in the future the result will be depressing.
Work with the pepper after the disembarkation of seedlings does not end there is still a lot of action ahead
- Planted seedlings do not need to be fed with infusion of weeds - in the future there will be no flowers after this, therefore, there will also be no fruits,
- It is necessary to ensure that nitrogen is not accumulated in the soil - then the flowers will begin to crumble, and this element is not as easy to remove as it seems
- The temperature difference at night and during the day should be smoothed out to the maximum - if you close your eyes to this aspect, the seedlings can get sick.
Many related information can be obtained in the video about planting peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse:
How can you smooth temperature drops day and night? On the same day, when the seedlings will be planted, you need to put several plastic large bottles of water. In the daytime they will take the extra heat into themselves, at night they will give it to the plants.
Even such a minor technique greatly simplifies the life of a gardener. The principle of operation is simple: the plastic walls work, as does the greenhouse itself - let in the sun’s rays inside, due to which the water heats up. Back infrared heat does not go as required.
Why this greenhouse?
Pepper is a thermophilic culture, so in the cold season it is grown in polycarbonate greenhouses.
In order for the harvest to be large, this construction must have the following conditions:
- The optimal microclimate - such greenhouses are usually heated,
- Resistance to mechanical damage
- You can give a greenhouse any shape,
- Airing - the ability to get rid of heated air masses,
- Irrigation system - for different varieties, it is important to calculate the required amount of water.
Preparation before landing
Some gardeners do not check the seeds for germination - they immediately plant them in the ground and wait for the seedlings. Others prefer to germinate in advance. So immediately from unsuitable seeds are rejected.
For germination, you must perform the following actions:
- Put the seeds in a piece of gauze and tie it in a bag,
- Liberally moisten the fabric, you can leave it in the water for a day,
- Move the bag to a warm place for 10 days, ensure that it is constantly wet,
- After this time, the seeds will germinate.
Then you can disinfect sprouts, subject them to heat treatment, but this is not necessary - you can immediately plant them in the ground.
How to plant pepper: sowing seedlings
Proper soil is important for a good harvest. It can be purchased at the store by selecting the one that is suitable for peppers. As an option - to cook it yourself.
For this you need to take:
- 2 parts from the whole earth of humus,
- 2 pieces of turf. It will need to be disinfected,
- 1 part of sand.
The substrate should be mixed and put into pots, but not to the brim. Pour warm water over the ground and place the seeds at a distance of 2 cm from each other. Then fall asleep again with soil and water well.
To create a greenhouse effect, put the pot in a warm place and cover it with film.
The planting time depends on several factors:
- Crop ripening time - early varieties will give a crop within 50-60 days after planting in the ground, later ones - after 70. Therefore, it is better to plant peppers in late February - early March,
- Climatic conditions - if the region is located in the north, the soil will warm up later, which means that it is necessary to plant peppers in a month compared to temperate zones.
In the greenhouse, pepper is planted in the first half of May. Since there he will start to produce fruits much faster.
Planting pepper seedlings in a greenhouse or greenhouse
To do this, you need to go through several stages:
- Greenhouse preparation. Check its integrity, make nutrient soil without pests and debris, dig up the ground,
- Hardening seedlings. To get the plant accustomed to the cold, it can be taken out on the street for a day, and put into a room for the night,
- Transplanting. In the early afternoon, it is necessary to prepare shallow, even beds, shed them with water or a solution of mullein. The distance between rows should be no less than 35 cm, and between peppers - from 25 cm. The soil in the pot should be watered so that the root of the plant is not damaged. After landing at the root of the pepper a little more pour water,
- Further it is necessary to mulch the bushes and tie each of them to a disinfected stick.
Pepper care after planting in the greenhouse
Pepper care is simple:
- Drink plenty of water. If there is little water, unpleasant stains will appear on the fruit,
- Provide warmth
- Stock up on funds from spider mites, who are very fond of this culture,
- If the plant is small, it is enough to remove the shoots and leaves in the middle part of the pepper. High varieties need to be tied up for two main shoots and set aside 2 for the first charges,
- At the beginning of flowering it is necessary to remove the lower buds.
All side leaves and shoots on the main stem need to be removed.
Diseases and pests
The main hazards of pepper:
- The black leg causes death, arises from frequent overflow,
- Cancer and rot is formed from high humidity. There must be good ventilation in the greenhouse.
- Black bacterial blotch occurs if the temperature drops and the humidity remains.
If the disease is caused by improper care, then it is enough to correct the situation to save the plants. But in the case of a fungus or a virus, you will need to buy special drugs.
If you follow all the rules, the plant will delight its owners with tasty fruits.
We plant the seedlings of pepper in the greenhouse: