Pests and plant diseases

Pests of indoor plants

Pests on indoor plants is not so little. Most often they are very small, it is not always immediately noticeable. They live and multiply both in the soil and on parts of the plant itself. If pests of houseplants have appeared and measures are not to be taken with them, then the flowers begin to wither, turn yellow, and then even die.

Symptoms to recognize harmful insects

What you need to do to save the pets? First of all, find out what harmful insects are bred on the flowers. To do this, a thorough review of the plant and soil. After that, they begin a merciless struggle with various methods. Remember, any delay is fraught with dire consequences.

Insects live in the soil (on the roots), on the leaves, stalks, gnaw buds.

Pests of indoor plants

For each pest plants react in a special way: they can change the color of the leaves, slow down their growth. When visually inspecting a houseplant, you can see changes in the leaves, stems.

The appearance of white spots

White spots are a signal of appearance:

  • Mealy or Rootworm. Need to inspect all parts of the flower. If you notice "cotton" lumps, then there is a pest.
  • When the whitefly appears, the leaves become sticky and may fall off.
  • The presence of a red spider (clover) tick can be identified by a whitish reticulum, spider by a spider web. Leaves with a large number of insects die off.

What signals the spots of yellow

The appearance on the leaves of yellow spots need to inspect the leaves. If fingers stick to them, these are traces left by the shield. The reason may be the appearance of enhitrei. Tiny little white worms live in the soil at the very root.

Brown spots

The presence of brown, brownish spots from the bottom of the sheet and white stains from above indicates the action of thrips.

Deformation of the green parts of the plant

If the shoots and leaves on the flowers begin to deform, it means that the flower is affected by aphids or cyclamen mites. Aphid leaves behind sticky marks. She sucks the juice of indoor plants, from which they can dry out. If dust appears on the leaves from below, they curl - a mite “manages”.

Withering

The reason for drooping leaves and shoots is fungal mosquitoes, leafy or gall nematodes.

Spider mite

Spider mite on indoor plants is the most frequent "guest". Because of their small size with the naked eye, they are not noticed. You need to consider the lower part of the flower, because these pests do not tolerate light and moisture. Insects may appear to eat in the room dry and hot. In such conditions, the development of spider mite is rapid.

If you grow geraniums, gibikus, palms, aspidistra, they need to inspect constantly. Insects pierce the tender part of the leaves, sucking the juice. As a result, the leaves become faded, showered.

Aphids can be seen, despite the small size. They are black, green. Colonies of insects multiply rapidly: the female lays at least 150 larvae, which after 7 days themselves enter the breeding stage.
Third-generation females have the ability to fly. They move to any indoor plants, lay larvae. On the paws are transferred to the flowers of the disease, for example, different types of flower mosaic. Getting rid of aphids is not as easy as it sounds.

Shchitka on indoor plants - a dangerous pest, loves to settle on cuttings, leaves, stems. It is easy to find it: it is flat, oval, the lower part of the body closely adjacent to the substrate.

These pests are different. These shchitovki hide under the shell, just like turtles. In false guards there is no such possibility, since this part of the body is inseparable.

The favorite colors of these pests are:

Shchitovki settle on the bottom of the sheet. Colonies develop quickly. Slow-moving dots appear on the leaves, resembling plaques. Around their habitat leaves turn yellow. Insects suck the juice of tender plants and shoots, deplete the plant. If you do not start a timely struggle, indoor flowers die.

Ficus, begonias, dracaena, palm trees are affected by a small jumping beetle - thrips. Females, having made holes in leaves or flower buds, lay eggs. Microscopic damage, the naked eye can not be seen. A signal that thrips on indoor plants is a silver pattern that appears on the leaves. The insects themselves live on the back of the leaf.

White fool

These creatures also know how to jump. This is a soil insect living directly in pots. It is distinguished by an elongated body, on which sparse hairs are visible. Mustache on head. Most often appear in soils rich in humus.

The basis of nutrition is plant residues, but it is not shunned by the living root system. It is clear that the eaten up roots can no longer cope with their function, the plant slows down its growth, it can die.

Mealybugs

These are worms of white color, they love the back side of the leaf in those places where the vein passes. The females are large, up to half a centimeter, very fertile. They arrange for posterity houses that look like lumps of cotton, laying eggs in them. The hatching larvae are mobile, quickly conquer the space on the flowers.
Flower growers who grow azaleas, cacti need to constantly inspect the plants for a sign of mealybug. They are the ones preferred by these pests of indoor plants and it is necessary to take immediate measures to combat them.

White fly

Whitefly by and large insects greenhouses. If you purchased flowers in these places, do not be lazy to carefully examine them. Even one female whitefly on indoor plants in a short time will produce a huge offspring. Then the question will arise how to fight. The favorite flowers of the pest are fuchsias, ferns, geraniums. The two-millimeter insect feeds on the sap of the plants, as a result it weakens and languishes.

Mushroom mosquitoes

It often happens that flower growers notice flying small flies around their flowers, but do not attach any importance to this. And in vain, because the fly lays the larvae in moist fertile soil. The larvae are microscopic, so their appearance is not immediately noticeable. The danger of insects is that the smallest creatures feed on the root system of plants. As a result, the flower dies.

How to deal with pests on indoor plants

Many novice growers are wondering how to deal with pests of indoor plants. The answer is important, because insects multiply rapidly, time should not be missed.

There are various ways to help get rid of pests:

If pests of houseplants are recognized correctly, and measures to combat them will be effective.

Mechanical

You need to start with the safest measures for a person, especially since they often help perfectly. Before starting work, disinfect and sharpen the tools. Cut off all damaged leaves and shoots, place the slices need to sprinkle with activated charcoal.
Bugs and visible larvae are manually selected: worms, scutes, slugs, caterpillars. Leaves with pests such as aphid can be wiped with a cotton pad. A contrast shower, spraying water helps to get rid of pests that live on the green parts of the plant.

Biological

How to deal with harmful insects biological agents? Such preparations are based on plants. Most often used:

Before use, you must read the instructions. Since they destroy pests, they contain poison in small doses. Treated plants early in the morning, leave in a shaded place until all parts of the plant are dry. The room where the treatment was carried out, air. It is necessary to wash all exposed parts of the body with warm water and detergent.

Folk methods

If indoor pests of plants have appeared, the treatment can be carried out by folk remedies that have been tested for centuries. To do this, cook broths, infusions of:

  • yarrow,
  • chamomile
  • dandelion
  • marigold,
  • nettle,
  • garlic,
  • Luke,
  • oranges, tangerines, lemons.

These environmentally friendly and harmless to humans plants are able to effectively destroy harmful insects. Steamed citrus peels can be prikopat in the soil. Insects do not like their smell.

Infusion of tobacco, kiln ash, a solution of potassium permanganate, furatsilina or soda works well. In order that the liquid did not immediately flow down from the plants, laundry soap is added to it.

Chemical

When using chemical pest control agents, you can achieve quick success. It is better to resort to their help as a last resort, if other methods did not give a positive result. It should be remembered that such tools are unsafe for humans and beneficial insects. It is necessary to work with chemical means at the open window, removing children and animals from the room. In addition, when working you need to use personal protective equipment. After work, you need to thoroughly wash your hands and face.
Treated plants are removed in tenek until the solution is completely dry. The place where the treatment was carried out, you need to rinse with hot water and detergent.
Remember that chemicals are toxic, therefore, they should be stored in places inaccessible to children and pets.
Popular and effective remedies for pests of indoor plants:

They are able to destroy almost all harmful insects.

We get rid of harmful insects

Shchitovka

The shell of insects makes them invulnerable even to toxic drugs. If there is a large accumulation of pests, it should be cleaned with a toothbrush, moistened with alcohol.
From chemical preparations it is better to use:

How to get rid of shitovki on indoor plants folk remedies? Experienced growers are advised to use garlic infusion. Plants are sprayed until the last pest has died. Along with the scale insects, other parasites are also destroyed.

Getting rid of thrips

If thrips appeared on the flowers, they should be urgently isolated from healthy plants and processed. Put flowers in a cool room with high humidity.

An adult insect can be destroyed with special preparations:

Thrips eggs safely survive in the soil. One processing will not be enough. Repeated in a week, just by this time a new batch of pests will hatch. It is advisable to transplant the plant in a new pot and fresh soil. In order not to transfer the larvae to a new vessel, the roots are washed with clean water.

People have long used to get rid of thrips plant treatment infusion of garlic. You can go the other way: decompose crushed garlic on the soil, close the flower with cellophane and leave for 2-3 hours. Repeat the procedure every other day until complete destruction.

Plants will be healthy if timely preventive maintenance is carried out, and the rules for caring for every room flower are observed.
Use quality soil, before planting it must be disinfected. Buy room flowers themselves from reliable vendors. The appearance of pests is easier to prevent than to deal with them.

Treatment and Prevention

Most ticks do not tolerate high humidity, so the best prevention is regular spraying (not only the top but also the underside of the leaf) and a warm shower. If pests are already present on the plant, you can wash the leaves with a solution of soap. In the summer, if possible, take the flowers to the garden, or to the balcony! At first, spraying with a solution of green soap can help!

If the tick has had time to spread and damage the leaves, you will have to resort to the help of acaricides - chemical drugs to combat ticks. These include "Akarin", "Agrovertin", "Inta-vir", "Vertimek". Neoron destroys not only the mite, but also its larvae, and Fitoverm is the safest plant microflora. To tick did not return, you need to correct the errors in the care!

Shchitovka and false shield

Insects from the family of worms, whose body is covered with a flap. This feature not only determined the name of the pest, but also made it invulnerable to chemical spraying. But unlike the previous representative, the shield is not moving, on the contrary, clinging to the plant, it remains stationary. Therefore, it is easy to find it!

Flags belong to the sucking insects, they, like leeches, suck the sap of the plant, while releasing a sticky liquid that clogs the pores, making it difficult for the flower to breathe. The shatter-guard is a close congener of the shield, surpassing it in size. By the way, this malicious family has many varieties: they are round, oval, white, brown, brown, from 2 to 7 mm in size.

Affected flowers lag behind in growth and development, shed leaves and buds. Shchitka on indoor plants in the literal sense of the word "sticks" branches and even the main trunk, and can still be hidden in the leaf axils. Outwardly, these pests look like droplets of wax, or growths! Small scale insects form clusters that resemble plaque along stems and leaf veins. As a result, leaves and even branches may die off, previously being covered with red-brown or yellow spots. Particularly dangerous are scythes for young shoots!

shield shield

  • Risk group
    Deciduous plants (especially ferns, asparaguses, ivy, lemons, begonias) are more often chosen for the dislocation of the scale, but they can also appear on succulents (ficus, zamiokulkas), and also rarely affect orchids.

Treatment and Prevention

Dryness of the air and lack of light, characteristic of the winter period, become provoking factors for the breeding of scutes. They can also enter the apartment from the street! Weakened, diseased plants, for which, for one reason or another, metabolic processes are disturbed, are a real bait for flail. Healthy flowers with strong immunity are insured against these pests!

First of all, it is necessary to remove the dead parts, as well as to remove all visible shields. This can be done with a warm shower, a soft sponge (or soft brush) and laundry soap. An alternative would be a cotton swab soaked in lemon juice, or a vinegar solution. Alcohol can burn the already injured plant, and the oil will clog the pores!

At this stage, you can get rid of older individuals, which are not affected by insecticidal spraying. In order to destroy insects and larvae that are not visible to the eye, it is better to insure and additionally treat the plant with insecticides. For these purposes, use drugs "Aktara", "Aktellik", "Arrivo", "Fitoverm". The most gentle method of struggle is a solution of green soap, but it is effective in the initial stages!

Thrips

Another type of sucking pests, which, unlike the previous ones, are hidden for the time being in the thickness of the leaf. The fact is that the larval stage occurs inside the leaves, where thrips reproduce. As long as they grow up and are outside, they will already have time to do enough damage to the plant! The development cycle lasts about 20 days, after which the larvae turn into insects with a small elongated body of 1.5 mm in size, which easily fly from branch to branch and are able to infect all specimens in the home collection.

The trips break the structure of the leaf plate, the sheet deforms, loses color, darkens, or becomes discolored and gradually dies off. In addition, adult insects, like scutes, leave behind sticky secretions that clog the pores of the plant and can cause fungal diseases.

In the initial stage of thrips, it is not difficult to identify by the characteristic marks on the leaves. Chaotic light points, “strokes” and whole paths appear on the surface of the sheet, which gradually spread, and as a result can merge into one large whitish spot! Adult insects can also be seen with the naked eye - they have a dark oblong body, are able to fly, and, sitting on a flower, they leave behind a silvery path of sticky secretions.

thrips thrips

  • Risk group
    The pest is omnivorous, but palms with large leaves, citrus crops and even succulents (rubber plant, hoya, monstera, aspidistra, laurel, euharis, syngonium, senoplia) are his favorite plants.

Treatment and Prevention

The main thing is to notice in time the first signs of the appearance of thrips on houseplants so that he does not have time to develop from the larvae. In this case, you can pause the process with insecticides by spraying and root treatments. After all, being inside the sheet, the pests become invulnerable to external disinfection, for this they are watered at the root! But to eliminate the appearance of insects outside, spray the aboveground part.

At the initial stages green vegetable soap copes well with this task (it can be bought in flower, garden stores). If thrips strongly struck the plant, use the drugs "Aktara", "Dantop", "Apache" (for root processing), as well as "Fitoverm", "Intavir" (for processing outside).

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Мучнистый червец

В народе эти вредители имеют название «мохнатые вши», они – самые ближайшие родственники щитовок и также являются сосущими насекомыми. They called them so for the appearance - clusters look like cotton wool. Mealybug on indoor plants loves young shoots, leaves and buds! It sucks the juice, severely inhibits the growth of plants, causes dying of its parts, young shoots, dropping buds, buds, drying out and deformation of shoots and leaves.

This enemy sometimes hides in the axils of the leaves, becoming imperceptible, but it multiplies very quickly, therefore it spreads to the soil, shoots and even to the roots. In nature, there are more than 2,000 species of worms, for plants they are all dangerous! In room culture is more common exactly white mealybug.

Scarlet hides badly, white vat-like secretions give out, in which insect females lay eggs! Usually clusters of them can be seen in the axils of the new leaves, on young shoots. In addition to the “shreds” of cotton wool, the pests themselves can be noticed - they are not large, about 3 mm in size, also white, with an oblong body.

mealybug mealybug

  • Risk group
    It is impossible to say exactly what kind of plants the scarlet loves! Its purpose can be as decorative and deciduous species, and succulents, and even cacti. For example, Monstera, Chrysolidocarpus, Nolin, Kalanchoe, Anthurium, Camellia, Azalea, Clivia, Amaryllis, Hibiscus, Asparagus.

Treatment and Prevention

Exterminate an unexpected guest at first is not difficult! It is enough to wipe the leaves, remove white patina and disinfect the affected areas. This can be done with a cotton swab, or a soft brush. A soap solution is suitable for cleansing, and calendula tincture, or any herbal alcohol infusion, is suitable for subsequent disinfection. A good preventive measure is spraying a solution of green soap. This will help prevent relapse!

In case of severe damage to the bruises, more radical therapy is needed - irrigation and spraying with insecticide preparations - Aktara, Vermitek, Intavir, Tsvetofos, Fitoverm. If the scarlet has spread, it is better to completely replace the soil in the pot, after examining and washing the roots with running water.

It is necessary to periodically inspect the flowers for the presence of a malicious insect. Especially young leaves and shoots! The insect does not like moisture, so often spray and wipe the plants.

White fly

Insect species sucking, about 3 mm long, looks like a mole of white. It reproduces rather quickly, laying eggs in groups on the inner surface of the leaf. Adult insects also keep groups, sucking the juices from the leaves and young branches - the most delicate parts! As a result, the leaves fade, turn yellow and fall off.

These pests of indoor flowers can fly, but usually they sit idly on the inner surface of the leaves until they are disturbed. When feeding, these nasty flies leave waste products on the plants, which later become the basis for the development of the fungus. Most often the whitefly can be seen in the summer, it is also a garden "dirty dog" and a frequent visitor to greenhouses.

It is easier to recognize the whitefly on flowers: white larvae remain on the underside of the leaf, forming groups, as well as a characteristic whitish coating. At this stage, the easiest way to deal with the pest!

whitefly whitefly

  • Risk group
    The most common victims of whiteflies are plants with delicate leaf plates, thin epithelium. These are nephrolepis, tradescantia, warring, fuchsia, pelargonium, Benjamin ficus, abutilon, balsamine.

Treatment and Prevention

At the larval stage, the insect can be eradicated by spraying with insecticides, the most effective of which is Aktara. Also suitable "Agravertin", "Inta-vir", "Akarin", "Fitoverm". If the insects have already turned into a mole, one spray can not do, because the white mole is very mobile. In this case, use adhesive tapes, which are caught flies. They will become traps for flying whiteflies!

Like other aggressors, this one also likes dry air and warmth. Spray and wipe the leaves more often, inspect them from all sides in order to catch the pest in time, ventilate the room more often.

Aphid

Externally, it also looks like a mole, but differs in color (from light green to black), the size of adult insects is about 3 mm. It lives in large colonies, mainly in garden flowers! An indicator of the spread of aphids in the garden are ants that absorb the sweet discharge of aphids. These secretions attract other insects and serve as a trigger for the development of fungal diseases.

Aphids on indoor plants may show up in the summer. Eating on their juice, the aphid infects young shoots, interferes with development and growth, causes deformation of old leaves and leaf fall. A plant attacked by aphids dies quickly! Therefore, it is important to have time to get rid of the insect, while it is not strongly bred. Aphids and other pests of garden flowers.

The appearance of aphids can be observed on the apical shoots, buds, young branches, which are covered with adult pest. As a result, the leaves are twisted, deformed. Aphids do not always know how to fly, there are wingless individuals! Aphid larvae are usually hidden on the bottom surface of the leaf.

aphid aphid

  • Risk group
    Like the whitefly, the aphid chooses plants with delicate foliage. Decorative leafy species with small leaves are most vulnerable.

Treatment and Prevention

The treatment is also similar to the previous case! Timely treatment with insecticidal and antifungal drugs (Akarin, Aktara, Iskra-bio, Inta-vir, etc.) can help. It is important to place the plant in quarantine in time and inspect those near it, because the aphid moves easily!

If the insect did not manage to occupy the whole plant, you can cope without toxic preparations - arrange a warm shower with a flower using laundry soap, or spray it with a solution of green soap.

Now thrips, scutes, mites and other pests of indoor plants will not go unnoticed, and you will be able to effectively deal with them.

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31 comments

Hello Christina! Wonderful blog! Detailed, detailed, qualified answer questions. Thank!
I can not figure out that with my "money tree". On the young leaves and stem appear white dots, similar to mica. They are erased with fingers. and "taken" on them, like mica pieces. more mature leaves in hillocks and brown spots. dying blacken and curled. Soap their spring household and green soap. Especially not helped. Maybe in the summer, all the forces went to the garden and did not finish something. Thank you for your work and knowledge!

Good afternoon, Marina!
Thank you so much for the kind words! They inspire to work even harder and help to feel that everything is not in vain.
She carefully looked at the photo of the bastard. Very strange spots ... White dots are rather some kind of physiological process. Perhaps a reaction to the drug, fertilizer, or changing conditions of detention. They are not like traces of the pest, are too uniform. But brown spots are more like a fungus. Leaves in some places are corroded. You can start with antifungal treatment. If “Green Soap” does not help, it is better to take something more serious, like “Topaz”. It seems to me that it is not superfluous to replace the soil with a new one, but at the same time assess the condition of the roots. Very much the spots have spread! It is possible to rinse the crown and roots with warm running water, and then plant it. It is better to remove all the most affected leaves and cover these places with activated carbon, and then treat the crown with a fungicide. Immediately after planting, do not water it, and after a couple of days you can water it with “Zircon”. Marina, how often do you water it?

Thanks for the quick response! I have a few fat girls, all obtained from the fragments of the parent bush, formed during the move. On the other "mica" points, mounds and no spots. I resettled these plants on a separate window sill. And she sealed the window with a matte film, because it was south. One time she poured, and they stood in the sun until she read what was wrong.
Now - once a week. I think that the deep brown ulcers on one of the leaves are traces of my attempt to pick open one of the hillocks in suspicion of the shield.
I will try to sprinkle them with microbes, I have a magic tool, but for some reason I didn’t use it at home, only in the bushes and trees.
Today I wrote to you and sprayed with green soap again, I will process it three times for the purity of the experiment, and then with “Stimix”.

Good afternoon, Marina!
And what kind of magic microbes that you splash in the garden? Do you mean the drug "Stemics"? I read about it, it is something from the category of biologics, for healing the soil and improving the microflora. Does gardening help? How do plants react to it? It is necessary to read more, I also prefer such biologics to various chemicals.
About your fatty. I think this is not a pest. Do thrips clearly visible "tracks" and points that are located randomly. The shield is also noticeable - these are brown tubercles, usually they are clustered at the base of the leaves and on the shoots. And then some reaction. Especially, if the rest of the plants are normal. So this particular flower does not like something. Fat women are generally quite capricious. They rarely get sick, but if they are sick, it is serious and for a long time. From fungal diseases, it seems to me, it is still worth treating with some strong fungicide to rule out this option. A "green soap" can be used for prevention.
I have a tree on the south window, but with the blinds (half open), I water it only after the top is crumbly and dry.

The answer sent in the afternoon from work was not attached. And I wrote that I fell in love with Stimixes after I tried them this season. Saved peach about curly. Neither strawberries, nor currants, nor tomatoes ached in spite of the cold, wet May-June. The leaves were much larger than usual, and the fruits are VERY sweet. Much less was aphids. They explained to me that as a result of photosynthesis, sugar is formed and when everything is not very correct, it goes to the leaves, then their aphids love them. and Stimiks normalize everything, sugar goes to the fruits and roots, and the roots feed the biota, which in turn feeds the plants. In general, everything is good for each other and good for everyone. The meaning of this, even if I am confusing something. The leaves become more powerful and aphid does not bite through them already. My plums last year were covered with this dirty trick. And in this one branch just sat for a bit, where I didn’t reach with spraying. Tomatoes were green under the sky until yesterday (October 22) and I will attach the photo from October 15. and photo berries, where you can see the size of the leaves and berries




Good afternoon, Marina!
Do not worry, already corrected everything. Apparently, some kind of "bzik" was on the site, or in the browser.
Vintage you just gorgeous. And what is the tree on the first photo?
You really intrigued me, just some kind of magic: from pests, and growth improves fructification, and without chemistry. I am now away, but when I return, I will definitely read about these miracle Stemics. Maybe even make an article about them with your photos (if you do not mind, authorship must specify). Did you order this drug somewhere?

And the leaves are really good - smooth and green. At our site, aphid also gloats, ate all the currants. And on the strawberry thrush eat. Then tell me how Stemics will affect home flowers. Probably it is really worth making a material on this topic.

It is better to read on the manufacturer's website. Just hammer in stimix. There and video. I don’t remember so well, I realized that it’s useful and it’s not necessary to fiddle with sweet solutions as with Baikal-EM. I'm glad if my advice will help you. And you pushed me on the flowers to try the miracle microbes)))

Yes, I also saved peach from curl, sweet cherry and cherry from spots and holes on the leaves. Cherry is still almost green and beautiful, and last year all the leaves were in holes, and I could not find several pieces in the jar for salk. There were no yellow spots on the pear. In August-September, no longer squirted. And since May - every week passed through the plants.

Good day! Tell me what to process the cherry, when ripe becomes wormy?

Plant Pests: Major Species

Insects are usually difficult to see with the naked eye. However, they can seriously slow down the normal growth and full development of indoor flowers. The insects can live on the leaves, on its stem, on the root system, and also in the soil. They can feed directly on parts of the flower (for example, leaves), and they can suck out all the beneficial substances from the soil, leaving the plant without beneficial vitamins and minerals. Most often annoying insects appear at home when an amateur grower brings a plant “from the street” into a house: from his summer cottage or from the market, from a nursery, from his “colleague”, an amateur grower.

The following types of plant pests are distinguished:

  • Spider mites and dust mites,
  • Aphid,
  • Flies,
  • Bad bugs.

All of them are dangerous because they multiply very quickly, while their eggs and larvae are very difficult to see with the naked eye. Some of them, for example, small mites, and more precisely, waste products of these mites, are strong allergens. Therefore, if a child or adult is at home, allergic or bronchial asthma, indoor flowers is best to completely clean the room. The flowers themselves are rarely allergic, but their larvae and excrement is a strong allergen, dangerous to health and imperceptibly destroying the lungs.

What are they dangerous for flowers

First of all, bugs represent a great danger to flowers, because each pest is, in fact, a parasite and deprives the flower of the nutrients necessary for proper growth, development, flowering, reproduction. They have a complex negative effect on the normal development of colors, namely:

  • Deprive the soil in which the plant grows, nutrients, thereby reducing to zero the results of feeding and watering,
  • Destroy the leaves and buds of indoor plants, depriving them of the ability to bloom,
  • Warp blooming flowers and contribute to their drying, fast wilting,
  • Undermined and thinned stems.

It should be borne in mind that the greatest harm is caused not by the pests themselves, but by their larvae. Larvae multiply very quickly and are very voracious. Therefore, it is necessary to destroy, first of all, the larvae and eggs of insects. If the larvae accumulate on the leaves, it is best to take a small bowl and put it next to the flower. Then the flower is gently picked up at the top and shaken so that all the larvae and eggs of harmful parasites fall into the basin.

Then the larvae and egg-laying are destroyed, for example, washed into the toilet. This method is quite effective if the larvae nest on the leaves and on the stem. If the larvae are hiding deep in the ground, it is best to transplant the plant in a pot with another earth.

Many insects are dangerous because of their vital activity they cause root decay systems. Also, many harmful insects leave on the roots, stems and leaves of the products of their activity, for example, wet mucus, due to which the plant gradually rot and can get a fungal infection.

Some species of insects entangle the leaves with their web and thus interfere with the normal "breathing" of flowers. But the greatest danger to indoor flowers are parasites that feed on stems and leaves. They are unusually voracious, and if time does not take measures to destroy them, they are able to almost completely destroy the leaves of the plant, just as the Colorado potato beetle destroys potato tops.

How to deal with pests of flowers at home

If a beginner gardener has noticed that pests have started on flowers, in no case should this be ignored. If time does not take action, pests multiply rapidly, lay eggs, and the fight with the larvae will be very difficult. There are a variety of ways to combat harmful mites, flies and different types of aphids. Most often amateur growers use the following methods of pest control:

  • Spraying of indoor plants with insecticide solutions of industrial production. However, insecticides can cause an allergic reaction and contain toxic substances, so this is not the most suitable way to control pests if the plants are in the children's room. It is necessary to spray plants only at that moment when there are no children and pets in the room,
  • Transplanting plants in a pot with new soil. This method is effective if the pests and their larvae live directly in the soil or on the roots of a plant,
  • Crop and destruction of affected shoots, leaves, buds and flowers. All this is carefully cut off with sharply sharpened gardening scissors and burned, since the pests are very tenacious, and if you throw out the affected shoots into the trash can, the insects will crawl out again and return to their previous habitat,
  • Many pests of indoor plants are very afraid of ordinary gray ash. In order for pests to leave their homestead, you can periodically sprinkle the ground in a pot with ash or cigarette ash. Однако, этого не стоит делать в том случае, если цветы стоят в комнате ребенка ил взрослого, страдающего аллергией или бронхиальной астмой. Мельчайшие частички золы и пепла, рассеявшись в воздухе, могут попасть в легкие и вызвать сильный приступ удушья. Поэтому растения, посыпанные золой или пепломit is best to put all small particles on the balcony until the weathering is complete.

If the plant has already died as a result of the vital activity of the pests (for example, it has completely eaten leaves or the root system has suffered greatly), the plant must be carefully pulled out of the pot and burned. Land should be thrown out of the house so that insects do not stay in the apartment. The pot should be thoroughly washed and sanitized, only then it can be used for planting other indoor plants. It should also be borne in mind that many pests are afraid of low temperatures. Sometimes it is enough to put the plant on the balcony or on the street for a while so that all the pests die.

Preventive measures

Preventing the appearance of pests of indoor plants is much easier than fighting pests that have already occupied the plant and laid their eggs. Recommended for prevention spray plants regularly water from a spray bottle, and also to wipe leaves and stalks from dust. The more dust and dirt accumulates on the plants, the greater the likelihood of the appearance and intensive reproduction of dangerous pests. In the summer it is desirable that the plants spend as much time as possible in the fresh air. You can put them on the balcony or take out to the country.

If an amateur florist brings home a potted plant bought in a nursery or on the market, it is recommended to immediately “move” the flower to a new pot with new soil, as in “alien” soil the larvae can dwell dangerous pests and parasites. Land for planting indoor plants is best purchased in specialized stores.

It is not recommended to bring land from your own garden and backyard, because many pests of vegetables and fruits, whose larvae live in the ground, are also dangerous for houseplants. For example, the larvae of the Colorado potato beetle will gladly “eat” with cherry tomatoes, as they eat any plants of the family of nightshade, including various varieties of tomato.

A useful tip for a florist

Also for the prevention of reproduction of pests and parasites, it is recommended to avoid over-watering, because many pests reproduce well in conditions of high humidity. High air temperature and high soil moisture are conditions in which breeds well most dangerous pests.

In order to notice in time the appearance of dangerous pests that threaten the normal growth of plants, the florist should regularly inspect the plants and the soil in which they grow. If the florist has found at least indirect signs of the appearance of pests (spider webs, eggs, slime), measures should be taken urgently. It is also advisable to temporarily isolate the affected plant from healthy ones until the pest is “established”. Having identified a harmful insect, you need develop an action plan to destroy it, and do it as soon as possible.

Pests of indoor plants

The easiest way to fight insects is with special preparations. Most of them are contact, that is, they destroy an insect when they directly hit a certain means.

More effective are the system tools. When watering and spraying, they get inside the culture, and make the juice poisonous, and any living creatures die when they eat the leaves.

It is important that the treatment should be carried out several times to destroy not only adult individuals, but also their larvae and eggs. Below is a description of the most common types of such insects, and methods of dealing with them.

Ways to fight

To combat the scale insects, the systemic insecticides Confidor, Aktara and Mospilan are used. These remedies are effective against all insects except mites. To obtain the effect you need not only to spray the leaves, but also pour the soil with the prepared solution so that the preparation is absorbed by the roots.

Figure 2. The defeat of flowers with flaps

With a small lesion, you can remove the shield insets manually: by collecting insects and rubbing the stems with a damp, clean cloth. After that, it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying with Karate or Actellic preparations, and all new copies must be quarantined.

Mealybug

Determination of the lesion is very easy to determine by characteristic white formations similar to cotton wool or white web clods. Cacti are most commonly affected, spreading along their root system (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Mealybug spreading symptoms

For the fight using drugs Confidor and Aktara, applying the solution not only for spraying, but also for watering the soil.

Other pests of indoor plants

The most common pests of indoor plants have been described above, but there are other insects that can cause significant damage to flowers.

Pests of indoor crops also include (Figure 7):

  1. Whitefly: a small white midge that settles in colonies on the lower part of the leaves,
  2. Miner fly lays the larvae on the leaves, and the young individuals gnaw walk in the leaves and stalks,
  3. Caterpillars rarely attack house flowers, but if they are found, it will be easy to get rid of them by collecting the caterpillars manually or by treating them with any insecticide,
  4. Snails gnawing roots, getting into the house along with forest or garden soil. To get rid of them, you need to spread out on the ground pieces of apples and collect snails manually,
  5. Centipedes - long insects with many limbs. Insects gnaw on the roots, and to combat them, they use diazonin preparations, which are injected directly into the soil.
  6. Pins appear with excessive watering and are mainly on the ground. Dangers to flowers do not represent, but spoil its aesthetic appearance.
Figure 7. Common pests of indoor plants: 1 - whitefly, 2 - mining fly, 3 - caterpillars, 4 - snails, 5 - centipedes, 6 - podury

To combat most of these insects, except for snails, use insecticides of systemic action.

Methods of dealing with whitefly, as an example of a pest of indoor plants, are given in the video.

Pest Controls

For quick, and most importantly - the effective destruction of pests using contact or systemic insecticides. If you do not know which drug is better to choose, we will give some features of such products.

Many growers avoid chemicals, considering them to be too toxic. In fact, these drugs are dangerous only for insects, but not for humans. The toxicity of any drug is shown in LD50, which shows how much substance you need to drink, eat or inhale, so that there is a risk of death (50% probability).

Figure 8. Popular drugs against pests of indoor plants

In most cases, all such drugs are not highly toxic to humans. They contain special substances that are dangerous to insects, but harmless to humans, and the lethal dose is several tens or hundreds of grams.

Also, do not trust the unpleasant sharp smell. Modern insecticides often have no odor at all, and at the same time have a fairly high efficiency in the fight against pests.

When choosing a pest control product, it is better to alternate groups of products, using, for example, pyrethroid, phosphoorganic and neonicotinoid preparations, in turn, so that insects do not develop immunity (Figure 8).

Diseases of indoor plants: photo, causes and methods of struggle

Brown leaf edges

The reasons: excess or lack of water, excess fertilizer, lost soil, dry air. Control measures: optimize care, increase air humidity.

Twisted leaves

The reasons: low air humidity, dry ground. Also the cause of this plant disease can be damage to the roots. Control measures: optimize care, if necessary, transplanted.

Pale leaves (chlorosis)

In plants that prefer acidic soil, such as azalea and spurge. The veins of the leaves are still green. The reasons: hard water, iron deficiency. Control measures: soften the water, add iron to the water.

Light spots on the leaves

The reasons: temperature drops, too cold or too warm water. Moisturizing in the sun (for example, at a Saint-Barbados violet). Control measures: change location, optimize care, water the bottom.

Mealy dew

Symptoms: powder-like bloom from white to dirty brown on both sides of the leaves. The reasons: fungus spores. As seen in the photo, it is possible to fight this disease of indoor plants with the help of fungicides:

Gray mold

Symptoms: gray-brown bloom on leaves, petioles or flowers. The reasons: not suitable for spraying or cold water, too high humidity. Control measures: remove diseased parts of the plant, reduce the humidity of the air, put in a lighter place.

Bacteria and viruses

Bacterial wet rot is found in alpine violet and room calla. Symptoms: rot at the base of the stem. As shown in the photo, with this disease of indoor flowers, if there is no proper treatment, the rot spreads throughout the plant:

Mosaic virus

It affects primarily anthurium, orchids, hydrangeas, gloxinia, hippeastrum. Symptoms: light green and dark green spots. Control measures: Not.

Pests of indoor plants: photos, causes and control measures

Spider mites

Symptoms: cobweb under the leaves and in between. The reasons: too dry air. Control measures: increase the humidity of the air, use a warm shower, hook the predatory mites. Also, to combat these pests of indoor flowers are used special preparations.

Soft tongs

Symptoms: twisted leaves, cessation of growth. The reasons: contamination, which contributes to heat and high humidity. Control measures: reduce temperature and humidity. Parts of indoor plants affected by this pest must be removed and destroyed.

Thrips

Symptoms: silvery touches on the leaves. Look at the photo - if the pest is affected by this pest, brownish traces of sucking insects appear on the underside of the leaves:

Whitefly

Symptoms: on the underside of the leaves are small white flies. The reasons: infection from other plants. Control measures: lower the temperature because the tropical insect does not tolerate coolness. Traps, horsemen and insecticides are also used to combat this pest of indoor plants.

Aphids

Symptoms: sticky leaves, leaf deformation. The reasons: draft, open windows in spring, too dry air. Control measures: warm shower, gold eyes, predatory gall midges, horsemen, insecticides.

Shchitovka

Symptoms: brown shields under which insects sit. Pay attention to the photo - indoor plants affected by these pests shed their leaves:

Felt and mealybugs

Symptoms: formations similar to cotton, primarily in the sinuses and on the underside of the leaves. Poor growth. The reasons: too dry air. Control measures with these insect pests of houseplants are the same as in the fight against shields.

Nematodes

Symptoms: glass or brown spots bounded by leaf veins. Dumping leaves. The reasons: infection, which contributes to moisture on the leaves. Control measures: remove diseased leaves and destroy. Leaves keep dry. Here you can see photos of the main diseases and pests of indoor plants:

How to get rid of pests of indoor plants: flower protection methods

How to get rid of aphids

The defeat of aphids is an unpleasant phenomenon, but must be eradicated.

  • Rinse with warm water. Used with minor damage to the plant. The method is not suitable for large plants or if they are only replanted.
  • Pinching the affected escape.
  • The use of oil aerosols and further processing of infusions of tobacco, wormwood.
  • When using pesticides, it must be remembered that the frequent use of certain drugs contributes to the development of immunity in aphids.

Important to remember! The study instructions will avoid the purchase of drugs with the content of the same active substance.

Effective remedies: pyrimicarb, permethrin, derris, saifos, resmetrin, feverfew. Treated plants once every 8 days. Only 4 procedures.

All processing work is best done outside, in the bathroom. Make sure that direct sunlight does not fall on the leaves before they dry. Dead insects remain on the plant. They are recommended to wash off after the cessation of the drug.

Special sticks and balls with impregnation of insecticides, ready aerosols are on sale.

Shchitovka - another representative of sucking pests. The most famous are the common, brown, and lozhnošitovki. Insects have received the name for the waxy shiny shell covering them. They stick to the leaves, stems and trunks of the plant. Thanks to the shield, it is difficult to recognize them. You can see only hatched tramps, looking for a place to shelter.

The damage to the plant by the shield is judged by the yellow, brown or whitish spots on the leaves. The leaves disappear luster, they fade.

The body shape of the false guard is oval, its length is about 3 mm. The color ranges from yellowish-grayish in larvae to yellowish-brownish. Sometimes it is confused with aphids. It can damage cacti, palms.

Continuous inspection with a magnifying glass or palping with your fingers allows you to identify bulging plaques on the plant.

How to deal with shield

The shield guard is a dense shell. Fighting them begins with the removal of insects. Take a thin hard brush or a toothbrush, moisten in alcohol, vodka or prepared soap solution and process the leaves once every 7 days for a month.

Several recipes for processing indoor plants:

  1. Prepare an emulsion. Beat up to obtain foam 10 g of soap with a glass of water. Connect with 30 g of engine oil. The soil is covered with foil. The composition is used to treat leaves, stems and stem of an injured plant. After 12 hours, the emulsion is washed off. After two treatments with an interval of 10 days, the flaps die.
  2. You can take one small onion, 5 cloves of garlic or 50 g of hot pepper, chop, insist in 1 cup of water for a day. Strain. Process the plant.
  3. If the moment is missed, scutes are used a lot; chemical methods are used - treatment with insecticides: actellic, phobescide, selinone.

There are up to 10 thousand different ticks. Flower growers cause trouble web and root onion.

Spider mites settle in the lower part of the leaves. They got the name for the cobweb, which appears at the place of its attachment to the vein. The appearance of the cobweb means that the defeat is serious. The leaves soon turn pale, turn white, turn yellow, dry out.

Ticks are resistant to most pesticides. Fight them hard.

Ways to combat spider mites:

  • removal of damaged shoots, leaves, flowers,
  • washing with a shower or rubbing with alcohol, soap solution (recipe for plants with large leaves),
  • transfer of a diseased plant to a separate place,
  • treatment with special preparations.

It is important to know! Treatment with strong chemicals spend only on the street or on a loggia with an open window. It is advisable to carry out 4 procedures with different acaricides with an interval of 3-4 days. The pest may return. It is better not to rely on popular methods, but to use special means: Nissoran, feverfew, Oberon, Sanmite, Apollo, Actellic. Acaricide - a special drug to combat spider mites.

The enemy of bulbous and bulbous plants is root onion mites. They are located in the bottom of the bulbs. If during transplantation you notice that the bottom is damaged, then try to decontaminate the bulb: warm it at a temperature not higher than 40 ° for 7-10 days, sprinkle with chalk.

Strawberry or cyclamen mite infects Saintpaulias, balsams, cyclamens, pelargoniums. Ticks are located on the tops of the shoots, in buds. Differs from spider mites in that it spreads in wet conditions. When these pests are found, it is better to destroy the plant.

These are very small sucking insects. They quickly develop at an air temperature of 20-28 °. A decrease in temperature below 10 ° leads to a loss of their activity.

The damaged parts of the plant discolor, turn brown and die. Leaves appear lead shade. But unlike spider mites, thrips do not have spider webs. Plant growth slows down, flowers are deformed. Thrips are harmful to flowers. You can see them jumping alongside the plant.

Fight against thrips:

  • increase watering and humidity,
  • spray the contact insecticide once every 8 days with repeated treatment 4 times,
  • prune damaged leaves
  • Use balls for mothballs to repel thrips.

Effective remedies: decis, karbofos, fitoverm.

Where do parasites of indoor plants come from?

Scientists-entomologists divide existing plant pests into 2 groups: sucking and gnawing. The first variety is the most common. Lives at the expense of feeding with cell sap, while not violating the integrity of plant tissues. Detect them visually problematic, so they are miserable. Their presence is usually found out when significant damage has been done and infection has spread to neighboring flowers.

Стандартной причиной размножения вредителей на растительности является их занос в дом с новыми горшочными цветами либо срезанными в саду букетами. Often in the summer period, indoor flowers are transported to the cottage, and they can return back with an unpleasant appendage, in the form of harmful insects.

The source of damage can also serve as garden soil taken for transplantation. Nematodes, earthworms and pupae of other insects usually live in it. In springtime, the threat comes from acquired seedlings. Since parasites breed at an incredible speed, even one unsung individual will suffice.

Mushroom mosquitoes

Pests of houseplants mushroom mosquitoes

Superficially resemble the midges, constantly flying near the vegetation. Only insect larvae originate in the soil. Appear when excessive moisture. Therefore, the first thing to settle the irrigation regime. To get rid of pests spray plants with systemic insecticidal compounds: Regent, Konfidor, Aktara. Enough one treatment.

Pests of indoor plants thrips

Thrips are sucking pests that lay eggs on leaves. The adults look similar to the midge - small, 1-2.5 mm long, of a resinous color. They feed on foliage, leaving streaky blackouts. Defeat occurs due to dried air. Usually they fly into the open vents and settle on plants.

The larvae develop in the thickness of the leaves. To combat them, systemic insecticides of intestinal type of action are used.

  • sticky lures of yellow or blue are placed around the affected flowers,
  • sprayed and watered first with Aktar (dissolved in water - 3-4 g per 5 l), then: with Akarin, Iskra-bio, Fitoverm or Int-vir (4 times, with a break of 7-8 days).

When thrips are found on at least one plant, everyone is treated.

Pest houseplants aphid

Small insect brownish color, no larger than 2 mm. Settles colonies, mainly in the upper part of the shoots. There are wingless and winged representatives. The source of damage is often the ants, if the plant is close to the soil or grows in open ground. From aphids, sticky drops of honey dew appear on the leaf plates.

Parasites multiply quite intensively, so for a short time they are able to destroy most of the cultural plantings. It is possible to destroy parasites by double processing: Aktara, Agravertin, Iskra-bio and other systemic preparations. Also suitable contact insecticides Karate or Decis.

At the initial stage of the lesion, washing with soapy water or nettle decoction helps. Do it this way: 120 g of freshly cut grass pour 1 liter of boiling water, insist 20 hours. The resulting liquid is pollinated. In the advanced stage of the lesion, the insecticidal drug Permethrin or Derricks is recommended.

Soft or Cyclamen Pincer

Pest houseplants cyclamen mite

Among the symptoms of the lesion can be identified deformed, shriveled leaves, dried tips on the shoots, as well as falling buds that do not have time to bloom.

The pest appears in the form of a small tick, which is deployed en masse on the lower surface of the leaf. It looks like dust. Actively multiply in the damp and warm.

Methods of control: in the case of a strong infection, the entire plant is disposed of, with a slight one, the diseased areas are removed. Processing helps: Karbofos, Decis, Intavir, Fitoverm.

Weevil

Pest of house plants weevil

Small bugs with a glossy shine and a rounded body. A characteristic feature is a stretched head. These insects are saturated: leaves, flowers, roots. The larvae are localized in the rhizome, adults - on top.

Leave on the leaf surfaces of the hole round or oval. Parasites are easily eliminated by hand. After that, planting is sprayed with intestinal exposure systemic insecticides. Repeat the procedure another 3-4 times, with an interval of 10 days.

Gall nematodes

Pests of houseplants gall nematodes

This type of pest appears as worms that infect the rhizome of plants. As a result of parasitic invasions, blooms are formed - galls. Pests are so small that they are invisible to the naked eye. The female lodges in the roots and lays eggs, up to a thousand at a time. The larvae hatching from them are spreading through the soil along the nearby growing plants. Partially remain in place and create new galls, close to the mother.

As a result of planting, nutrients are undersupplied due to a failure in the functioning of the root system. Foliage brightens, zhuhnet and falls. Buds, not having time to open, showered. At the slightest signs of nematodes, diseased cultures are quarantined.

They try to carefully remove the roots and cut off the incapable parts. Then put them in hot water, above 50 ° C. From chemical preparations use Fitoverm or Agraverin. They are applied directly to the soil mixture as a dry powder. Proven efficacy against nematodes Ecogel.

You should know that a number of plants tend to form on the roots of tuberous influxes, which are normal. Do not confuse them with gall growths. So, in bean varieties, nitrogenous bacteria accumulate in such root tubers, contributing to the growth and development of plantings.

Insecticidal preparations

Insecticides of a contact and system spectrum of influence serve as effective means in the fight against pests of plants and flowers. Since their range is quite large, you should consider a number of features of some.

Many growers try to avoid once again the use of chemical preparations, because of their toxicity. In fact, they are dangerous only for pests, and not for humans. The degree of toxicity of any composition is determined by the level of LD50, which determines the maximum amount of a substance required to use or inhale for a lethal outcome.

Insecticides from harmful insects, in most cases, low toxic and safe for people. They contain only harmful substances for insects. The deadly dosage for a person usually exceeds several hundred grams.

Do not rely on the smell, since most chemicals have a sharp and unpleasant. Modern drugs are produced without perfume, but do not lose their effectiveness in terms of pest control. When choosing a drug for the extermination of plant insects, it is better to use different groups in turn: organophosphate, neonicotinoid, pyrethroid. This technique helps to avoid the development of insect immunity.

To date, the sale of an extended selection of insecticides. The most popular drug is "Aktara", endowed with an extensive damaging spectrum of influence on plant pests and absolutely harmless to people around them.

Available in the form of microencapsulated water-soluble granules. The aqueous solution obtained from them does not emit an unpleasant odor. Plus means in its system - after application to the plant accumulates in the tissues for a long period of time, providing protection from parasites for at least 2 weeks.

The list of modern chemicals:

Biological preparations include:

To help gardeners there are various sticky traps that are placed near the affected landings.

No less common in the home use of plant origin, endowed with insecticidal and acaricidal effects. These include infusions: red pepper, onion, garlic, tobacco. They are effective against: aphids, scutes, thrips, ticks.

Universal methods of extermination of pests

In order to save room plantations, safe and sound, first of all, adhere to preventive measures:

  • thoroughly inspect existing plants, as well as newly acquired,
  • diseased cultures are separated in time from healthy ones,
  • disinfect the soil and containers during planting,
  • adhere to the correct schedule of watering and feeding,
  • observe temperature, light and humidity conditions of the maintenance of plants.

But even proper care does not give an absolute guarantee of protection for indoor plants from pest damage. In the case of a small settlement, you can do manual assembly. Then arrange a shower with warm water. Be sure to wash the inner area of ​​the leaf plates. And so that the flower does not fall out of the pot, put it in a plastic bag and tie it.

Regular water treatments are effective from spider mites. From aphids and shchitovki helps machining the plant component of a toothbrush moistened with soapy water (dissolve soap shavings in a ratio of 1: 6). When diagnosing the presence of other pests on plantings, wipe the ground part of plants with ethyl alcohol, using a soft brush. To prevent burns, rinse under clean water 5 minutes after the procedure.

Other methods of countering malicious attacks:

  1. Alcohol disinfection is acceptable as a mechanical extermination of pests: scale insects, mealybug. Necessary pure alcohol or strong tincture, cotton pads (tampons, non-rigid brush). Dip a brush or other tool in alcohol, then gently try to remove an insect from it. To such treatment resorted as needed. This option is acceptable for glossy leaves, but terry poorly tolerated.
  2. Alcohol treatment of soil - is necessary when parasites are found in the upper soil layer. After that, the surface of the soil is replaced with fresh.
  3. The use of water-in-oil emulsions - the method is based on the blockage of spider pests, due to oil. To increase the covering properties, soap is mixed into the solution. The mixture is prepared in the following ratio: 3 ml are taken for 200 ml of water. l sunflower oil and some liquid soap. The product is shaken and applied with a cotton swab to the surface of the vegetation. Prior to this, cover the ground with something so that nothing gets into it. Leave for several hours, after - washed under a warm shower.

It should be noted that getting rid of indoor plants from malicious occupations requires time and patience. One manual assembly or insecticidal treatment is not always sufficient. As a rule, disinfecting measures are repeated several times, with an interval of 7-10 days.

Folk remedies

In the destruction of harmful colonies on home plantings, many folk remedies are proven, time-tested. Here are some effective recipes:

  1. Pour onion peel (30-40 g) with a liter of boiling water. Stand 12 hours, filtered and applied to the plant 3 times, every 5 days.
  2. Twist the onion in a pasty state, measure out 1 tbsp. a spoon. Dilute it in 200 ml of water and draw for a week. The resulting infusion process culture 2 times a week, until complete recovery.
  3. Pounded garlic, in the amount of 80 g, steamed 1 liter of boiling water. Then tightly covered, and after 5-6 hours filtered. It is used for external processing with the use of a spray.
  4. Mix 110 g of milled fresh pepper and 40 g of chili pepper, also in a ground state. Pour boiling water (1 liter) and incubated for about an hour. After that filter. Before use, the concentrate is diluted in water in a ratio of 1: 7.
  5. 45-50 g of tobacco dust is dissolved in a liter of water, put on fire and brought to a boil. Boil on heating up to 2 hours. The resulting solution before spraying diluted with clean water.

To the solutions prepared according to the proposed recipes, it is recommended to add soap to create a sticking effect. Suitable for this: tar, household or liquid soap. It is taken in the calculation - 5 g per liter of infusion.

Why do plants get sick

Often, indoor plants are ill not from the fact that they are badly cared for. On the contrary, the cause of the disease becomes excessive care:

  1. Often watered with cold water from the tap, with falling drops on the leaves.
  2. Tear down the withered buds and leaves are not neat, hands. It is necessary to carefully cut off with a sharp tool, then sprinkle with coal flour.
  3. Transplanted into a tight container.
  4. Top dressings bring regularly, but without a certain dosage - "approximately". Use mostly non-complex additives, without trace elements in the composition. Flowers are sensitive to both excess and lack of nutrients.
  5. Contain a plant all year round in the same temperature regime. But many plants need a rest period, when the temperature in the room should be lowered.

Indoor planting can not be put:

  • through wind blowing,
  • in a place with low light,
  • near heating systems,
  • on the windowsill, close to the blown frames,
  • between tightly drawn curtains and window glass.

All of these factors negatively affect indoor vegetation, leading to insect infestation.

Conclusion

In our article, we have discussed with you what kind of pests of indoor plants exist and their treatment with photos. It should be noted that the use of toxic chemicals at home is permissible only with a high degree of damage to plants by insects. At the same time observe the technique of personal safety and do not carry out processing indoors. In such a situation it is recommended to choose Fitoverm.

On an industrial scale, for the extermination of harmful insects, any method of control is acceptable: biological, chemical, biotechnical. Moreover, the choice of pesticides is quite large, of any spectrum of action.