Garden flowers, plants and shrubs

Planting weigela and caring for it in the open field


In our article you will learn about weigel - a spectacular shrub from the family Honeysuckle, we will look at the features in detail. weigelsprinciples planting and care in the open field.

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This plant is grown in Europe from approximately the second half of the 19th century. Officially, the birthplace of the shrub is Japan and China, but it feels rather well in central Russia.

This plant is rarely found in gardens and cottages. All in all, there are about 15 species of weigela, 3 of which grow on the territory of Russia, in the southern part of the Far East and in East Asia. It:

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But hybrids have now brought about 130.

general information

Weigela - beautiful, ornamental shrubrelatively unpretentious. Some species bloom twice a year. Sometimes weigela is called the herald of heat, because it blooms in late May - early June. But in some species, the timing may vary. The second time the bush blooms at the end of the summer. The first bloom lasts about a month, the second - a little less.

The flowers in their form resemble bells, their length reaches 5 centimeters, they can be gathered into inflorescences or arranged singly.

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The variety of colors is surprising: from white and cream to dark red and burgundy. Some colors may change over time. Blossoming begins with light shades, and will end with a dark saturated shade. Seeds ripen in a small box with shutters, they are small, slightly angular.

Middendorf (Weigela middendorffiana)

This species is distributed in the North and East of China, as well as on Sakhalin and the Far East. The bush grows approximately 1.5 meters in height. The leaves are oval elongated with a pointed end, the foliage on this bush is reset every year. Flowers 3-4 centimeters in length, bloom 2 times a year, in spring and at the end of summer. Shades from yellowish to gray, with bright orange dots. Seeds are small, with wings, a box elongated.

Pleasant (Weigela suavis)

Not very common type, although quite spectacular and unpretentious. This variety grows to 1.3 meters in height. The leaves are bright and saturated green, which by the end of September change color, and in October are discarded. Their oval-lanceolate form. Flowers in the shape of a funnel have a color from pink inside to lilac outside. Flowering occurs 2 times a year: the first from the beginning of May to the end of June, the second at the end of summer or early September.

Early (Weigela praecox)

The bush reaches a height of 2 meters, blooms in May and continues to bloom for 2-3 weeks. His pink flowers are collected in inflorescences on drooping peduncles.

This species was the result of a floriferous, Korean, and blooming crossing. They are most often planted for decoration of various landscape compositions.

Eva Rathke

This is one of the oldest hybrids, was bred in Poland. He has long been in great demand and is now in high demand.

Bushes of this type reach 2-3 meters in height, have a compact crown. Green leaves 6-10 cm in length have sharp tips and cover the entire length of the branches. Brilliant flowers in the form of tubules, inside light pink, and outside - reddish. Bloom from June to August.

Rosea (Rosea)

This is a hybrid look, with spectacular large flowers of pink color, on which there are white blotches.

The bush reaches up to 1.5 meters in length. The crown is formed by smooth, curved branches. This type of weigela is sufficiently resistant to the cold climate, tolerates winter even with a small shelter.

Bristol Ruby

This hybrid species is quite common among gardeners. Bushes are large, up to 3 meters high, and up to 3.5 meters wide.

It blooms from June to July in large, beautiful, red on the inside with an orange tinge, and on the outside in bright ruby ​​colors.


This species is bred by a floriferous and Korean weigela. Flowering begins in May.

The bush is covered with flowers of pink color, similar in color to strawberries, up to 3 cm in length. In June, by the end of flowering, the color of the flowers changes to brown-red.

Weigela landing rules

This culture is unpretentious in the care and planting, you only need to pay attention to the biological features in order to choose the right place on which the bush will constantly grow.

Bushes are planted in early spring, in March-April or in autumn, before the onset of cold weather and frost. In the southern and subtropical regions, weigela can be planted throughout the year, except for frost periods.

How to choose a place

Weigela prefers well-lit areas. It is better to plant in places protected from strong northern winds. The bush can be planted under the trees, but more abundant and more beautiful it will bloom only under a good bright light.

Tip! It is not necessary to plant bushes in the lowlands, so that they do not freeze.

Soil and pit preparation

The land in which the bush will be planted must be light, permeable and nutritious, and also retain moisture.

Natural species of weigela should be planted in weakly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5), and the bred and hybrid ones should be planted in neutral (pH 6.5-7.0).

Shrubs that grow up to 3 meters or more, plant at a distance of 2-3 meters, and short-growing can be planted at a distance of 1-1.5 meters. Pits for planting make 50 centimeters in length, width and depth.

Important! At the bottom of the landing pit it is necessary to lay a drainage of at least 15 cm, for this fit broken brick or gravel.

If the properties of the soil are not suitable for planting the weigel, it is replaced using a mixture of turf soil and leaf humus. In the mixture, add 100 g of nitrophoska and 0.5 buckets of humus. Fertilizer must be mixed with the ground so as not to burn the roots.

In this case, the width and length of the pit is increased to 1 meter, a depth of 0.5 meters is left, only the bottom must be loosened a few centimeters. If the land is not sufficiently moisture-absorbing, then you should add peat from the top.

Watch the video ! Weigela Flowering and species

Landing technology

Planted seedlings, which already have 3 years.

  1. In order for seedlings to settle down better, their roots should be processed by a root formation stimulator, for example, Radifarm, or Viva +.
  2. The roots of the bush must be carefully distributed throughout the volume of the pit and covered with earth, leaving no voids.
  3. The root collar is buried up to 2 cm, so that when the earth has settled, it is flush with the surface.
  4. Planted bush is plentifully watered.
  5. After the earth settles, add more.
  6. Wood chips or peat should be mulched place under the bush and around it. The mulch radius is 50 cm from the seedling's trunk, the layer is at least 8 cm.
  7. Seedling shoots are cut in half, but only if they are without flowers. Flowering shoots are not pruned.

Care rules

Proper care of the plant includes:

  • timely watering,
  • dressing,
  • soil loosening
  • pruning.

Tip! If during planting compost and nitrophoska are introduced under the roots, then weigel may not be fertilized for 2 years. At year 3, top dressing is carried out in early spring to stimulate the growth of new shoots and leaves.

Total fertilizer applied three times per season:

  • The first time is fed in early spring, you can even snow. Use 60 g of mineral fertilizers (ammofoska or diammofoska), which are scattered around the bush, right on the surface. Urea can be used for this purpose.
  • The next time they feed the plants when the buds are just starting to form. For such feeding, either fertilizers with potassium without chlorine or mineral fertilizers with a complex of useful substances — nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus (60 g of superphosphate or potassium sulfate) are taken.
  • The third dressing should be carried out at the end of the summer. Fertilizers should have a large amount of potassium (50 g of potassium sulfate), which will help the plant to prepare for winter. You can make 200 grams of ash.

The natural place of growth of the bush is Eastern Asia, in a monsoon climate with wet soil. Therefore, for a comfortable growth of the bush in Russia, it is necessary to carefully monitor that the soil does not dry out. Dry soil prevents full growth and flowering plants. A prerequisite is regular watering and mulching of the soil around the bush. To do this, you can use sawdust or peat.

Soil loosening

As the soil under the bush thickens, it needs to be loosened. This should be done to a depth of no more than 8 centimeters, because the roots of the shrub already lie deeper, which should not be disturbed. Their damage will adversely affect the development of the weigela.

Pruned bushes in early spring and in July. In the spring pruning is necessary for bushes on which there are dry, frozen or deformed shoots. In July, pruned branches that have faded and old branches. In addition, in June carry out the removal of excess root shoots.

If in the spring it is found that one of the main shoots has become extinct, then it should be cut off, leaving 10 centimeters above the ground. Elevated buds at the root should give new shoots.

Watch the video! Weigela Why does not bloom

Weigela diseases and pests

Most often, weigela is amazed:

For pest control use:

  • pesticides - Rogor, Nitrafen, Keltan. They cause severe harm to the environment.
  • Insecticidal herbal extracts from wormwood, bitter pepper or garlic. They are harmless.

Weigela roots can strike:

In this case, the seedlings after planting begin to turn yellow and wither. For the treatment of plants using a solution of karbofos or aktar.

Among the diseases weigela affect:

To fight against fungi and infections, the bush is treated with Bordeaux liquor - lime milk with copper sulphate.

Tip! For the prevention of diseases it is recommended to treat weigela during the appearance of the leaves with a 3% solution of Topsin.

How to store planting material

If seedlings are purchased in the late autumn, and they cannot be planted anymore, then they can be stored until spring. There are two ways to do this:

  • Sapling prikopat garden tilted, cover the branches with earth, leave for the winter. At the right time in the spring, carefully dig out and plant in a permanent place.
  • Leave the room by planting in a pot. Water gradually until weigela sheds leaves completely. After that, store in cool conditions, up to a maximum of 6 degrees, sometimes subject to negative temperature. Watering is not worth much, just so that the earth does not dry out completely.

Closer to the beginning of spring the bush will grow, buds will begin to swell. Then it must be moved to a bright place and increase watering. Weigela will gradually grow, if necessary, you can begin to form a crown. In April, you can feed the plant.

After the last frosts in May, the shrub can be planted in open ground. During the first 14 days it should be protected from bright sunlight.


You can harvest shoots twice in the whole season.

The first time they can be cut off in March, before the buds open:

  • Shanks up to 10 centimeters cut from lignified vegetative shoots (not flowering).
  • A good feed to accelerate root formation will be the use of a growth promoter. Cuttings can be safely left in this preparation for 4-5 hours.
  • Planted cuttings in a mixture of coarse sand and crushed peat, in a ratio of 1: 1. Deepen the need to escape almost completely.
  • Plant cuttings should be at a distance of about 25 centimeters from each other in partial shade.
  • When it becomes noticeable that the sprouts grow in the cuttings, it means they are rooted. They are seated in containers, in a mixture of peat, sand, clay and garden soil.
  • Seedlings need to be watered and fed with mineral fertilizers. When the shoots reach 5 cm, they will need to be pinched.
  • If the cuttings are strong, planted correctly and properly looked after, by the autumn they will reach 25 cm. Then next spring, before the shrub grows, it is necessary to cut it transplanted into a pot, up to 3 l. Then everything is done as in the past season, but they no longer need to pinch.
  • Then by the fall on the handle should be about 3-6 ripened shoots, in height which reach 80 centimeters. These seedlings are ready for planting at a permanent place in the garden.

The second time the cuttings can be cut in late May - early June:

  • For grafting choose shoots that are already quite stiff.
  • Take the cuttings from the bottom of the growth, the size of 8-10 cm
  • They cut off all the leaves, and leave the top two, cut them in half.
  • Otherwise, the rooting mechanism is the same as for cuttings that are cut in March.

Tip! Most often, cuttings that were harvested in the summer, rooted better and faster.

  • The cuttings planted at the beginning of summer become 15 centimeters long by the autumn. For ready-made shrubs, cuttings must be grown for about 2 years.
  • Such plants bloom in 2-3 years.

Grow weigela from seed

It is not difficult to grow from weigel seeds, but until the bush blooms, it is longer to wait than to propagate by cutting. Hybrid species do not propagate by seed, because in new plants there will be no signs of maternal. Seed cultivation is used if you want to get a lot of species of plants.

Weigel seeds are 100% similar and are stored for a year. Sow them in the spring or winter.

  • Sow the seeds in a dark place.
  • They are scattered on the surface of the earth.
  • Sprinkle with peat or sand on top, up to 1 cm and compact the layer.
  • Moisturize the surface by spraying water from a spray bottle.
  • If the seeds are sown before winter, the planting site should be well insulated with leaves, straw and covering material.
  • If sown in the spring, then put on the garden film, removing it only to pour or air.
  • Seeds begin to germinate approximately after 21 days.
  • After germination, they need to thin out, care for and feed.
  • A year later, the seedlings are sown in school and continue to care. In the winter they are sheltered and warmed.
  • Plants are planted in 3-4 years to a permanent place of growth, weigela will bloom for approximately 5 years.

Seeds can be grown in a pot, only during the warm period they should be taken out into the open air, but closed from bright sunshine.

Landscape design

Weigela in landscapes are used for design most often as single bushes in the foreground or middle ground of the compositions. Sometimes it is used for clean groups of shrubs and for mixed plantings.

Next to the wigela they often plant:

  • Chubushnik,
  • rozovnik,
  • quince,
  • cotoneaster,
  • forsythia
  • felt cherry,
  • collective

It looks good composition of several varieties or hybrids:

  • You can combine high varieties (Gustav Mallet, Bristol Ruby or Mark Tellier) and green ornamental trees or bushes.
  • Small weigels (Purpurea or Variegata Nana) can be used to decorate small flower beds, stony gardens or borders.

Many types of tall shrubs weigela used to create a hedge, which does not need to cut.

Watch the video! Weigela Planting, care and breeding

Care for young and adult weigela

As is the case with any shrub, the main care for weigela in open ground is pruning. It is best carried out from the beginning of spring to June - by freeing the twigs from diseased or dry shoots, you will give the young shoots to play with a vengeance. Even if the branches are not sick, to give the bush a more well-groomed appearance, you can trim the branches that are knocked out of the general form. If everything is done correctly, the bushes will quickly recover and in the summer they will delight you with green leaves, and later with flowers.

If pruning was not done in the spring, you can arrange the shrub in early-mid-autumn, but then it is recommended to trim only dry branches.

Planting weigels and caring for them in the open field is a simple task, but this does not end the cultivation of the shrub. While weigela only gets accustomed to your site, you should give it a little more care: so that the plant does not freeze, wrap the bushes with a spunbond (sold in hardware and flower shops) or simple craft paper. For the same purpose, it is worth sprinkling the ground around the trunk with fallen leaves or spruce branches.

If these tricks did not help, and the weigela suffered badly during the winter, it is necessary to provide it with a constant abundant watering (up to 10 liters of water per bush). Hot weather can also harm the plant, so water it as often as possible. So that the fluid does not leave quickly and maintains the root system fresh, it is necessary to mulch the soil by adding wood chips or humus.

The adult weigela is much more unpretentious, but even a few years after planting, taking care of the weigela in the open field should be as follows:

  1. For the winter, install a fence around the bush, which should protect it from breakage under the weight of snow. If the winter was not very snowy, just periodically shake off snow raids from the branches.
  2. In early spring and summer (just at the time when the weigela can be transplanted) produce fertilizing. Urea or double superphosphate are suitable for this. You can also check with the sales assistant in a flower shop, which of the fertilizers you already have can be used for weigela.
  3. Если вейгела поражена бактериями, спасти ее может так называемая бордоская жидкость. Это смешанные в равных пропорциях медный купорос и известковое молоко, которыми опрыскиваются пораженные участки.

Почему вейгела перестала цвести?

Even if weighel planting and caring for it in the open field in the Moscow region (in temperate latitudes) were carried out correctly, this does not guarantee that after a while the bush will not cease to bloom. However, the first thing you should pay attention to is just the poorly chosen place for landing. Weigela does not like the shadow and simply cannot bloom in the absence of the sun. In addition, the shadow side can cause the seeds of the shrub to ripen for a long time. Young shoots may also suffer from a lack of sunny color: they will quickly grow, which will affect the overall development of the bush.

Two more reasons why the weigela can stop blooming is the defeat of the root system by bugs and insufficient watering. Timely fertilization of the soil and frequent watering is almost a panacea for all diseases of the weigela, so you should not neglect the minimum care for shrubs.

Vegetative (branch cuttings or cuttings)

This is the most acceptable breeding method for weigela, allowing you to get several healthy young plants. As already mentioned, pruning and planting weigels in the open ground in the spring is the best option. It is more likely that by winter the shrub will take root and be ready to meet the frosts and snowfalls.

Cutting of suitable shoots is carried out in the autumn, and their disembarkation - in the early spring, in boxes with previously fertilized soil. For greater safety, it is required to put boxes in greenhouses or greenhouses under plastic wrap.

With the help of seeds

Seeds appear only 3-4 years after planting. Unlike reproduction by grafting, it is better to plant the seeds in the fall - as soon as they ripen, they can be used for planting. If there is a need to preserve the seeds until spring, you need to pack them in paper or fabric bags, and in the spring they should not be sown in open ground, but in boxes or pots.

Planting and caring for the weigela (in short)

  • Landing: March or April.
  • Bloom: from mid-May during the month, re-bloom - in August-September.
  • Lighting: bright sunlight.
  • The soil: loose, fresh, moderately moistened and rich in humus loamy or sandy soil weakly alkaline or neutral reaction.
  • Watering: moderate watering only during the dry season.
  • Top dressing: after fertilization, the plant can not be fed for two years during planting; later, during the growing season, three dressings are carried out: in early spring with full mineral fertilizer, in early summer potash-phosphorus fertilizer, and for autumn digging - with wood ash.
  • Trimming: young bushes are pruned only for sanitary purposes in early spring, adults are pruned for pruning in spring, and formative - in summer, after the first flowering. Once every 3-4 years spend rejuvenating pruning bush.
  • Reproduction: seeds, green and semi-lignified cuttings, layering and overgrown.
  • Pests: aphids, thrips, caterpillars, spider mites, crunches and a bearfish.
  • Diseases: gray rot, spotting.

Weigela Shrub - description

Weigela flower is moisture-loving and relatively shade tolerant. This upright shrub does not form stolons, the leaf location on its shoots is opposite, the leaves are petioled, without stipules, serrate or dentate serrate. Flowers, funnel-shaped or bell-shaped, up to 5 cm long, single or gathered in loose inflorescences, are pink, cream, yellow, carmine-red and other colors that can change in the process of flowering from a lighter shade to a more saturated color. After flowering, weigel bush forms a fruit - bivalve boxes with small seeds.

  • When to plant weigela.

    Weigela best survives in the spring, in the time interval between the beginning of the warming up of the soil and the swelling of the kidneys. The autumn planting of the weigela, as a rule, dies in the first winter. Choose a place for a bush on an elevation, protected from northern winds and strong drafts, because of which the flowers and buds of the plant can crumble - the weigela grows best on the south side of the house. In order for the weigela bloom to be bright and abundant, good lighting is desirable. The soil for weigela is rich in humus and loose - sandy or loamy, slightly alkaline or neutral. The only exception is Weigela Middendorffiana, which can also grow on slightly acid peaty soils. For planting seedlings are not younger than three years.

    How to plant weigela.

    Planting of the weigela plant is carried out in a pit 30-40 cm deep, but if the soil in the area is not rich, then the depth of the pit should be a little more so that it can be laid on its bottom, except for a fifteen-centimeter drainage layer of broken bricks, gravel or sand with fertilizers - 100 g of nitrophoska and one and a half buckets of compost for each weigel shrub. Nutritional supplement must be thoroughly mixed with compost. To increase the survival rate of planting material, the roots of seedlings can be treated with a root formation stimulator solution, for example, Radifarm, or Viva +. Weigela saplings of large varieties (up to 2.5 m high) are placed at a distance of one and a half or two meters from each other, for low varieties, not more than a meter, an interval of 80 cm is enough. When planting, the roots of seedlings gently straighten the ground to avoid the formation of voids around the roots, carefully compacted. The root neck of the seedling is sunk no more than 1-2 cm, and it is better that when the earth settles it will be flush with the surface. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, the site is mulched.

    Weigela spring.

    Growing weigela is not laborious, and you will definitely cope with it. Spring planting is completed, and now you just have to take care of the weigela in accordance with the rules of agricultural engineering: water moderately during the dry season (if the site is muddled, you do not need frequent watering), remove weeds as they appear and be sure not to damage shrub roots, loosen the soil to the depth of the spade bayonet. Caring for weigela also includes making nutritional supplements, but if you put compost and nitrophoska under the roots during planting, then you can not fertilize weigela for two years. In the third year in early spring, in order to stimulate the growth of new shoots and leaves, apply a complete mineral fertilizer - ammophoska, diammofoska, Kemira-Lux or another supplement containing phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen into the soil. The second time, at the end of May or early June, when the weigela forms buds, produce a second dressing consisting of potash and phosphate fertilizers (superphosphate, potassium sulphate), which will provide longer and lush flowering, and at the same time strengthen the branches of the plant for the winter. The third dressing is carried out under autumn digging - wood ash is applied at the rate of 200 grams per square meter of land or Kemira fertilizer - autumn in the dosage specified in the instructions.

    Flowering weigela.

    The most remarkable advantage of veygela over other garden bushes is that it blooms twice a season: the first, very abundant flowering takes place on last year's shoots from mid-May to mid-June, the second time, but not so magnificently, weigela blooms in August-September on the shoots of the current year. Flowering weigela is a delightful sight.

    Reproduction of weigela.

    Weigela is easily propagated by seeds, but since seed germination lasts only for one or two years, there is no point in arranging the boar with sowing seeds in boxes and greenhouses. Moreover, it is much easier to leave the seeds that have woken up in the autumn in the ground, and in the spring, when they germinate, leave the strongest shoots and grow them for two years until it is time to transplant them to a permanent place. However, it should be remembered that during seed reproduction, the species properties of plants may not be preserved, therefore flower growers prefer vegetative propagation methods to seed: summer green or last year's semi-lumbering cuttings, young growth from stump or layering. From the green shoots of the current year, cut at the end of June, or half-woody last year's shoots, cut in early spring before the start of sap flow, as well as cuttings of 10-15 cm long are cut from the root shoots, the lower leaves are removed from them, and the upper ones are shortened by half. The bottom cut of the cuttings is treated with a root, then the cuttings are planted in a mixture of sand and peat, covered with a 4 cm layer of sand. Planting cuttings should not be deep, enough depth for one centimeter. From above, each cutting is covered with a glass jar or a cut off plastic bottle, which is removed daily to air and moisten the cuttings. As soon as you find a new shoot in some stalk, pinch it to stimulate tillering. The layers are propagated in the following way: one of the lowest shoots is bent to the ground, in the place where it comes into contact with the ground, the bark is slightly damaged, attached to the ground and sprinkled with the ground. Next spring you will have a full-fledged weigela sapling. Consider that cuttings and layouts before disembarking to a permanent place, you need to grow three years.

    Weigela Features

    The plant loves moisture and grows quite well in the shade. This erect shrub does not form stolons. The petized opposite leaf sheets do not have stipules, they are serrated or serrated. The length of bell-shaped or funnel-shaped flowers is about 5 centimeters. Flowers solitary or are part of loose inflorescences. They can be painted in cream, carmine-red, pink, yellow and other colors, while often during flowering color changes from a paler shade to a brighter one. The fruits are represented by a double-leaf box, inside which are small seeds.

    What time to plant

    The best time to land the weigel is spring. In this case, it is necessary to have time to plant the plant before the buds swell, but the earth should already be warm, in which case it will be taken very well. A shrub planted in the autumn dies during the first wintering season.

    The place to land is best to choose on an elevation, while it should be protected from drafts and the northern wind, which can cause shedding of flowers and buds. It is better to plant the weigela on the south side of the building. With good lighting, the flowers are very bright, and blooming is plentiful. For planting you need a loose earth with a lot of humus. Suitable loamy or clayey soil neutral or slightly alkaline. It is worth considering that weigela Middendorff (Weigela middendorffiana) can be planted in peaty slightly acidic soil. Planted seedlings must be at least 3 years.

    How to plant

    The depth of the landing fossa from 30 to 40 centimeters. If the soil is infertile, then the pit should be made deeper, because a layer of nutrient-enriched soil should be laid on the drainage layer (15 centimeters high), which can be made of gravel, brick fragments or sand (1.5 buckets of compost plus 100 grams of nitrophoska) ). Fertilizer should be thoroughly mixed with compost. In order for the sapling to be better taken, its roots can be treated with a substance that stimulates root growth (Viva + or Radifarm).

    If the weigel sapling is of medium-sized variety (not higher than 100 centimeters), then a distance of at least 80 centimeters should be left between the bushes, the intervals between high-grade bushes (height up to 250 centimeters) should be from 150 to 200 centimeters. During planting, do not forget to straighten the roots of the seedling, the soil will need to be gradually poured into the hole and tamped in order to eliminate the possibility of void formation. You can only deepen the root neck by 10–20 mm, but it is desirable that when the soil settles after watering, it is flush with the ground. Planted plants should be watered well, and the surface of the soil sprinkled with a layer of mulch.

    Caring for Weigela

    Growing such a shrub is easy, and even a beginner can handle it. Weigela needs to be watered only during the dry period, and a large amount of water is used (if the tree trunk is mulched, then watering will be more rare). It is also necessary to make timely weeding and loosening of the soil, which is done very carefully with only half of the spade bayonet, otherwise the root system can be damaged. You also need to feed the plant in a timely manner, while if you add nitrophoska and compost in the process of planting in the hole, then the bush will not need additional feedings for 2 years. In the third year at the beginning of spring, weigela needs to be fed, for this purpose full mineral fertilizer is applied to the soil, for example: diammofosku, ammofosku, Kemira-lux or other fertilizers, which include potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. In the last days of spring or the first - summer, during budding, it is necessary to produce a second dressing, with the need to take phosphate and potash fertilizers (potassium sulfate, superphosphate, etc.). Due to this, the plant will bloom for a long time and abundantly, and the branches will be strengthened, which is good for wintering. The third time the bush is fed during digging in the fall, while taking wood ash (for 1 m 2 you will need 200 g of top dressing). Can be used for this purpose fertilizer Kemira-autumn, with the dosage should be seen in the instructions.

    This shrub blooms 2 times per season. The first lush bloom is observed from the second half of May to mid-June, with flowers appear on the shoots of last year. The second time the shrub blooms in August and blooms until September. At the same time, flowering is less abundant than in springtime, and flowers grow on the shoots of the current year. During flowering, the plant looks very impressive.

    How to trim

    Weigel, like all shrubs need pruning. Young bushes need pruning only for sanitary purposes. To do this, in early spring, you need to cut off those branches that thicken the plant, as well as sick, injured and damaged by frost. Older plants need formative pruning, it must be done after the weigela has faded for the first time (in the middle of the summer period), while young shoots should not yet grow. It is worth remembering that during the re-flowering flowers appear on the shoots of the current year. In this regard, if you did not carry out formative pruning on time, and new branches began to grow, it is recommended to postpone it until next year. Adult shrubs need a rejuvenating pruning, carried out 1 time in 3 years, and all branches that are more than 3 years old should be cut, and those that remain should be cut by 1/3. In some cases it may be necessary to trim all the branches, after this pruning the weigel is restored very well.

    Diseases and pests

    Often on this shrub leaf-eating caterpillars and aphids settle. During a long period of heat and drought, thrips or spider mites can live on the plant. However, by the beginning of the drought period, the first bloom is already ending in the weigela. In order to destroy these harmful insects, it is recommended to use such pesticides as: nitrafen, rogue or keltan, but it is worth considering that they harm the environment. There are more harmless means to combat insect pests - these are insecticidal extracts made from plants such as: hot pepper, wormwood, or garlic. If the planted seedlings become yellow and begin to fade, then this is most likely due to the fact that a bear has started in the root system or the larvae of the May beetle have settled. They could get into the ground with compost or humus during planting. To destroy them, it is necessary to water the bush with a solution of aktar or karbofos.

    Weigela most often suffers from gray mold, rust, and spotting. In order to get rid of the fungal or bacterial disease, it is necessary to treat the shrub bordeaux liquid (copper sulfate mixed with milk of lime). As a preventive measure, it is possible to treat a plant when leaflets appear with Topsin's solution (3%).

    Seed collection

    Seed ripening occurs in September, while their collection is carried out in October, after the boxes begin to crack. In order for the seeds not to spill out onto the ground surface, it is necessary to wrap a few pieces of testes in September with gauze cloth and fix it on the branch. After the box is ripe, you need to carefully cut and bring it into the room. There you can remove the gauze and pour the seeds on a newspaper. After the seeds have dried, they should be poured into a bag of paper, on which do not forget to note the name of the plant, its variety and the date when the seeds were collected. They must be placed in a darkened dry place, where they should be stored until the spring period. It should be remembered that the seeds retain good germination only for 1-2 years, while shrubs grown from seeds may not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant.

    After the end of the leaf fall (in the last days of October or the first - November), it is necessary to cover the tree trunk with a layer of soil, while the height of the mound should be from 15 to 20 centimeters. Ветки рекомендуется пригнуть к поверхности почвы и зафиксировать их. Сверху куст накрывают спанбондом либо рубероидом, при этом укрытие прижимают, что его не сдуло ветром. Можно не пригибать ветки, а связать их шпагатом либо веревкой, хорошо стянув. Огородите растение сеткой из пластика либо металла. Внутрь получившегося сооружения необходимо всыпать сухие опавшие листочки. Поверх конструкцию нужно утеплить укрывным плотным материалом.

    Ранняя вейгела, или вейгела приятная (Weigela praecox)

    В природных условиях растет на Дальнем Востоке. Куст достигает в высоту около 200 сантиметров. On the surface of the foliage there is pubescence. Crohn spherical shape. The outer part of the flowers is rich pink. The inflorescences consist of 2 or 3 flowers, while they grow on the side shoots of this year. It happens that the pharynx of the flower has a white and yellow color, in the little flowers the flowers are colored purple. Flowering begins in the last days of May and lasts from 10 to 30 days. The variegated variety of weigela variegate causes the greatest interest. On the surface of the green leaf plates are specks of yellow color, in the summer they become a cream color.

    Weigela blooming, or Weigela florida (Weigela florida)

    In height the bush reaches 300 centimeters. On the surface of the shoots there are 2 rows of hairs. Short-cut sawed leaf plates on the front side have a pubescence located along the central vein, with all the veins on the seamy surface pubescence. The inflorescences consist of 3 or 4 flowers, painted in rich pink color, which unfold in the last days of May. Flowering lasts about 20 days.

    Popular forms:

    1. Weigela purple, or weigela red (Weigela Purpurea). The height of the bush is about 150 centimeters, there is a magnificent crown. Leafy plates are brownish-red in color, hot pink flowers have a yellow mouth. Flowering occurs in June and July. The variety Nana Purpurea is very similar to weigela purple, but the bush is smaller in size.
    2. Alba This is a dwarf form. White flowers turn pink when withering.
    3. Variegata. This form is very beautiful and most frost resistant. It has small leaves. Crusiform inflorescences consist of rich pink flowers.
    4. Weigela Pink (Weigela florida Bunge). The outer surface of the flowers is carmine-pink, and the inner one is almost white.
    5. Weigela Victoria (Weigela florida Victoria). The height of the bush is about 100 centimeters. The foliage is brownish-red, and the flowers have a crimson color.

    Weigela hybrid (Weigela hybrida)

    It has a spreading crown, flowering magnificent. The height of the bush is about 150 centimeters. Fragrant flowers have a funnel-tubular form, they can be part of loose inflorescences or be single. Depending on the variety, the color of flowers may be pink, purple, purple, white, purple-red.

    Popular varieties:

    1. Bristol ruby. Appeared variety in 1941 in the United States. The bush can reach a height of 250-300 centimeters, while the diameter of its crown is 350 centimeters. The leaves have a saturated green color. Pink flowers have ruby-red edges, sometimes their middle is colored orange. This fast growing plant begins to bloom in the last days of June.
    2. Red Prince. Variety bred in the United States. Compact bush in height can reach 150 centimeters. It has a spreading crown, drooping branches. Bright red flowers look very beautiful against green leaves.

    Types and varieties of weigela

    Of particular interest to plant lovers are several species and varieties of weigela, which can be successfully grown both in the south and in the middle belt of our country. Here they are.

    Weigela Middendorf (Weigela middendorffiana)

    Under natural conditions it grows on Sakhalin and the Far East, as well as in the northeastern part of China. It is a shrub, dropping foliage every year. Grows in height from one to one and a half meters. Oval-elongated leaves have a pointed end. Yellowish or grayish-yellow tubular flowers with bright dots of orange shade, reach a length of 3-4 cm. During the season it blooms twice. Once in the spring (beginning of May), and the second time in August-September. Quite small seeds with wings ripen in an elongated box.

    Weigela pleasant (Weigela suavis)

    Weigela is extremely rarely found in amateur gardeners, although its spectacular and delicate bush is very decorative. This culture is a shrub, reaching a height of 1.3 meters. The oval-lanceolate leaves of a bright green shade in mid-September change their color. Shrub sheds leaves in October. Especially attracting the attention of pink-purple flowers with a soft pink inner surface, resembling a funnel in shape. Usually bloom occurs from May 10 until the end of June. The second time this species may bloom in late August - early September.

    Weigela early (Weigela praecox)

    This is a high (up to 2 m in height) shrub with a dense crown. Flowering occurs in May and lasts 2-3 weeks. The flowers are pink pubescent, collected on several pieces on drooping peduncles.

    Weigela hybrid

    Weigela hybrid is called the union of several hybrids, which were the result of crossing of weigel flowering, Korean and flowering. When designing landscape compositions, various varieties of these hybrids are most often used.

    Eva Rathke

    Among the old varieties that are still in demand, it is necessary to highlight the variety "Eva Ratke". This hybrid was obtained in Poland and can be bought today on the website of the Union of Polish Nurseries. Bushes, about one meter high and from 2 to 3 meters wide, have a compact crown shape.

    A large number of green leaves with a sharp end in length from 6 to 10 cm cover the branches along the entire length. Brilliant flowers of a reddish-pink shade with a lighter inner surface have the shape of tubules. Flowering occurs in the period from June to August.

    Rosea (Rosea)

    Hybrid "Rosea" attracts the attention of pink large flowers with white specks. The crown of the bush with a height of one and a half meters is formed by smoothly curving branches. It has good winter hardiness, for the winter this hybrid requires only a small shelter.

    Bristol Ruby (Bristol Ruby)

    A rather well-known hybrid is the Bristol Ruby, which is distinguished by its rapid growth. He likes for fairly large bushes with a height of 2.5 to 3 meters and a width of up to 3.5 meters. Especially attractive are flowers with reddish ruby ​​edges and a reddish-orange inner surface. Flowering lasts from June to July.


    The variety "Stiriaca" obtained by breeding weigel floriferous and Korean weigel. Beautiful pink flowers, resembling strawberries in color, are 2.5–3 cm long. During the abundant flowering that occurs in May-June, the bushes become covered with “pinkish” foam. By the end of flowering color of flowers changes from pink to reddish-brown.

    Landing place

    The place is best to pick up in well-lit areas, protected from powerful winds and air currents, especially from the north. You can also plant a weigela under the open-topped tree canopies, but it must be borne in mind that this culture shows all its beauty only with maximum light.

    It is undesirable to place the plant in the lowlands, there with a high probability weigela will freeze.

    Soil and planting pits

    Land at the landing site must be nutritious, light, permeable and, at the same time, able to retain moisture. Natural weigels prefer to grow on soils with a weakly acid reaction (pH 5.5-6.5). A variety of varieties better developed on lands with a neutral reaction (pH 6.5-7.0).

    Planting pits are dug up in size 50x50x50 cm, the distance between bushes is kept from 2 to 3 meters. For stunted varieties - 1-1.5 m.

    If the land at the site of landing is not suitable for any properties, it is replaced with a mixture consisting of turf soil and leaf humus. In this case, the width and length of the pit is increased to one meter, and the depth remains the same - half a meter. The bottom is necessarily loosened by several centimeters. It is imperative to improve the soil moisture capacity in places where there is a strong lack of moisture in the soil, for example, adding high-moor peat.

    How to keep a weige seedling until spring

    If you purchased a sapling in the fall too late and it is already impossible to plant it, you can save planting material until spring in one of two ways.

    First - prikopat sapling in the garden under the slope, also cover the branches with earth. In the spring, dig up after the snow melt and land in due time.

    The second way is to keep it indoors by planting it in a pot. With moderate watering, you need to wait until the leaves on the weigel fall off. Next, you need to keep the plant in cool conditions, at a temperature of 1-6 degrees, even short-term small negative temperatures are allowed. Watering is needed very poorly, not allowing the complete drying of the earth.

    At the end of winter, when the buds swell and growth begins, the bush should be moved to a bright place. Watering increase, but moderately, in April, you can begin to apply fertilizer and, if necessary, to form a crown.

    In May, when return frosts take place, the weigela can be planted in a place prepared in the garden. The first two weeks after landing, protect from the bright sun.

    Weigela from seeds

    Seed propagation of weigela is simple, but it requires more waiting time for flowering plants than grafting. In addition, this method is not suitable for breeding weigels hybrid, since new plants will not retain the characteristics of the parent. It is used if you need to get a large number of species of plants.

    Fresh seeds of weigel have almost one hundred percent germination, which persists throughout the year. They can be sown before winter or spring.

    • Plot for planting emit in the shade of trees.
    • Seeds scatter on the surface of the earth.
    • Top cover with a layer of peat or sand 0.5-1 cm.
    • Lightly compacted.
    • Well moistened with a spray bottle.
    • When sub-winter planting, cover them with leaves, straw or covering material and wait for spring shoots.
    • When spring sowing, the bed is covered with a film, periodically it is removed for irrigation (from a spray bottle) and airing. Shoots should appear in about 3 weeks.
    • Some time after the seeds have risen, the seedlings are thinned, groomed and transplanted to the shkolko in a year. For winter landing require light shelter.
    • After 3-4 years the plants can be moved to a permanent place. Weigela, grown seed way, will begin to bloom for 4-6 year.

    Seeds can be sown and grown before planting in a permanent place and at home. At the same time for the summer pots with plants should be placed outdoors, covering from the sun.

    Preparing for the winter

    When growing weigels on the territory of our country, with the exception of southern and subtropical areas, need shelter for the winter.

    The shrub is wrapped with a spanbond, and the tree trunk is covered with leaf litter or spruce branches. In the middle lane shelter is removed in early April.

    Weigela in landscape design

    A variety of varieties, hybrids and species of this culture in ornamental horticulture and gardening are usually used as solitary plants (tapeworms) in the front or middle ground of landscape compositions. Weigela is also great for mixed and clean groups of shrubs.

    Usually, barberries, Japanese spireas, a moth, rosewood, cotone killers, Japanese quince, forsythia, felted cherry and colony are planted next to it. Particularly beautiful is the group of weigel of different varieties and hybrids on the lawn.

    High varieties and hybrids ("Gustav Mallet", "Bristol Ruby", "Mark Tellier") look good in compositions with decorative and evergreen trees. But weigels of low height (“Variogata Nana” and “Purpurea”) will adorn mixed flower beds, borders, flower beds and stony gardens.

    You can also create a free-form hedge from tall weigels that you don’t need to cut.

    Pruning weigela.

    Like any shrub, weigela needs a haircut. Young bushes need only sanitary pruning, in which in early spring they remove broken, frozen, diseased or thickening branches. Mature bushes are subjected to formative pruning, which is carried out in the middle of summer after the first flowering of weigela, while new shoots have not yet grown. But keep in mind that the second bloom occurs just on the shoots of the current year, so if you missed the time of the summer haircut, and the shoots went to growth, it is better not to do summer pruning at all. In addition, adult bushes every three to four years in need of rejuvenating pruning, during which remove all branches, which are more than three years, and the rest is shortened by a third. Sometimes it makes sense to cut all the shoots at all, and do not worry, the weigela after such pruning is perfectly restored.

    Pests and diseases of weigela.

    Spider mites and leaf-gnawing caterpillars are most commonly affected, and in extreme heat spider mites and thrips, but usually by the time the heat sets in, the weigela's first flowering is about to end. To control pests use rotor, nitrafen, keltan - pesticides that harm the environment. To avoid this, it is better to use insecticidal herbal infusions, for example, from wormwood, bitter pepper or garlic, in order to eliminate pests. If the seedlings after planting begin to turn yellow and wither, it is possible that their root system was struck by the larvae of the Maybolt or Medvedka, which could have been brought into the planting pit with humus or compost. In this case, spill the soil with a solution of karbofos or aktar.

    Of the diseases, rust, gray mold and spotting are dangerous for weigels. To combat bacterial and fungal diseases, they use Bordeaux liquid treatment - lime milk with copper sulphate. In order to prevent diseases, it is advisable to treat weigela in the period of the appearance of the leaves with a three percent solution of Topsin.

    How and when to collect weigel seeds.

    Weigel seeds ripen in September, and they need to be collected in November, when the boxes begin to crack. To prevent the contents of the boxes from spilling into the soil, wrap several testes with gauze in September and secure it to a branch, and in November, cut the box with gauze, put it in a room, carefully remove the gauze, shake out the seeds on the newspaper, dry them, pour it into a paper bag, write on it the name of the plant, the variety, the date of the bookmark, and store it in a dry dark place until spring. Remember that weigel seeds lose their germination after a year or two, and plants grown from seeds rarely retain the varietal characteristics of their parents.

    Weigela in winter.

    When all the leaves fall off the weigel, and it will happen in late October or early November, powder the tree trunk with the earth, forming a hill 15-20 cm high. Weighel branches should be bent to the ground and pressed against it, as is done with hydrangea, but from above close roofing material or spunbond, fixing the coating so as not to be blown off by the wind. You can not bend the branches to the ground, but pull the branches tightly with a rope or twine, fence the bush with a frame of metal or plastic mesh, put inside this structure to heat dry leaves, and wrap this structure with a thick covering material on top.

    Weigela Shrub: Species and Varieties

    Weigela genus includes about 15 species, but only varieties that take root well on the summer cottages of Russian citizens are to be considered. These include:

    Not all species can survive until spring in the cold frosts of Russia. Sometimes even careful warming does not give positive results.

    Weigela: planting and care in the open field

    Self-cultivation of weigela requires compliance with the basic rules that can help achieve maximum beauty of the shrub in an extremely short time. The entire care of the plant is concluded in three stages: planting, growing, shelter for the winter to save.

    Each of the stages contains its own characteristics, in which novice gardeners make mistakes. Of course, they do not lead to sad consequences, but the very absence of flowering, which follows most often in such situations, is depressing and sad.

    Proper landing weigela

    Start off caring for wagela follows already at the stage of its landing. This process should be carried out in the spring in April, when the soil has already thawed. In some regions, planting is carried out in May, as there are prolonged winters and the soil is frozen for a long time.

    As for the soil, it should be:

    • loose and permeable,
    • it should not form stagnant water
    • soil should have a neutral pH.

    Pay special attention to the choice of location. It is necessary to plant shrubs in sheltered places, with a small elevation and good lighting. Without illumination, the flowering will not begin, and a strong wind will cause the flowering buds to fall prematurely.

    Land in the following sequence:

    1. Prepare the soil if it does not meet the basic requirements for shrub growth. With a high level of soil acidity, a liming procedure should be carried out - scatter hydrated lime and re-dig the area.
    2. Now you should choose the right sapling at the time of purchase. To do this, carefully make sure that the young shrub was healthy, with no visible damage to the bark of the trunk and branches, as well as with not rotted roots. It is better to buy three-year seedlings.
    3. Drainage should be laid in the prepared wells before planting. Dig holes 50x50 cm approximately 40 cm deep. Put a broken brick or gravel in the hole with a layer of at least 15 cm.
    4. Mix the ground, which will subsequently bury the roots of the seedling with potassium salt and superphosphate in the amount of 40 g and 60 g, respectively. It is necessary that the roots are not burned when in contact with the fertilizer.
    5. Before planting the weigela, it is necessary to treat the roots with a solution intended for the quick rooting of the seedling in the hole. Зачастую их можно приобрести в питомнике, где выбирался сам саженец.
    6. Корешки саженца хорошо расправляют, укладывают на созданный дренаж , присыпают заранее приготовленной землей и хорошо уплотняют. Затем саженец необходимо хорошо полить.
    7. Завершающий этап высадки вейгелы требует мульчирования почвы – выкладки слоя подходящего сыпучего материала природного происхождения. Здесь подойдет измельченная кора или опилки. The radius of the buried soil should be at least 50 cm, the layer itself should be at least 10 cm.

    If you plant several seedlings, which is done much more often, then keep the distance between the landings. Low-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 1 m, and high varieties of shrubs - at least 2 m. Immediately after planting, the conditions and rules of plant care must be observed.

    Proper care of veigela

    Immediately after disembarking, weigela requires careful maintenance., which consists in regular watering as the soil is arid and loosened to the depth of the bayonet of a standard spade. Each time before loosening, the material used in mulching is removed and then placed new.

    Proper care of the ornamental shrubs provided involves the regular holding of complementary foods. In the first two years after planting, such procedures are not necessary. It is enough that the lure that was carried out before landing.

    In the following years, the shrub is smoked in accordance with the following scheme:

    • In early spring, it is necessary to equip the soil with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
    • During the formation of buds, potassium sulphate is used, which contributes to lush flowering.
    • The last feeding is carried out after flowering or before wintering in September-October. It also uses any potash fertilizer.

    Sometimes weigela needs to be transplanted. This may be necessary in the period of abundant growth of shoots or in order to change the place of cultivation. It is better to replant shrubs in the spring, because the roots of this plant are especially vulnerable and any change of location can harm the plant.

    Correct weigel pruning

    Trim weigela should be in the spring. At this time, you can remove damaged, dead or frozen branches in order to root the growth of young shoots. To do this, remove the old shoots and cut off new ones, leaving the bottom two.

    If you leave the shrub in its original form for the whole winter, then the strong branches will perfectly protect the new shoots, which will lead to their further fastening in spring and summer.

    If pruning was required in the fall, the basic rules should be observed. It should also be noted that the purpose of the presented process is to prepare the shrub for winter. A certain technique of insulation may require the correct form of a bush, which gardeners do by removing branches and shoots.
    How to prune weigela in autumn:

    Trim the shrub to form a crown, cutting it to the desired length using a shear cutter with an oblique cut. Make sure the buds remain on the shoot.

    1. Before wintering, you can remove completely old and dried branches. Do it almost at the roots themselves, leaving no more than 10-15 cm of escape.
    2. Watch your shrubbery and do not start free growth, because in this way you can provoke any problems in normal growth of weigela.

    Proper shelter for the winter weigela

    Many gardeners make a characteristic mistake because they don’t know exactly how to cover the weigela for the winter.

    Do not be afraid if the shrub froze during the winter. Even if during the period for flowering the appearance of the buds did not occur, then at the end of the summer, most likely, a variety of colors will wrap the weigela.