Echeveria is a perennial plant, sometimes there are types of subshrub. The leaves are oval in shape with a little sharp tip. The leaves represent a downed rosette resembling a rose. The leaf surface in some species has a pubescence on the outside, and in some smooth, glossy.
The plant has a bluish - bluish tint. The foliage in length sometimes reaches up to 25 cm wide a leaf about 15 cm. The shoots are even, but miniature, and some species seem to sit on the ground. Ampelnoe species are also grown, but in order to do this it is necessary to provide adequate lighting.
Echeveria flower can be seen in the summer. The inflorescences are not large about 3 cm, but in large numbers and resemble bells. The flowers are on a high stem and resemble an umbrella. The color of flowers is bright orange or scarlet, and from the inside, more saturated. Flowering lasts about a month.
Echeveria species and varieties
In nature, there are about 150 species, but only some are grown indoors.
Echeveria graceful This species has a grayish-bluish tint of leaves, and the rosette itself is represented by a flat shape. The shoots of the plant are straight, but with age they become horizontal and creep. Shoots are able to root themselves in the soil.
In a large individual, the rosette reaches up to 15 cm in diameter, and its children processes are located on high lateral shoots. The length of the leaf reaches 5 cm, and the width of 2 cm. The inflorescences have a pink shade, or a bright scarlet shade with a yellow border on top.
Agaveral Echeveria This species grows in one compact outlet reaching almost 30 cm in diameter. Shoots either short or none at all. The foliage is oblong and resembles a triangle. The surface of the sheet is smooth and glossy in length, the sheet is about 9 cm and 6 wide.
The pedicle appears in the center of the rosette, and reaches almost 40 cm. The inflorescences have a yellowish-red shade. The leaf has a rich green tint with scarlet edging around the edge.
Echeveria Derenberg her personality lies in the fact that a large number of shoots are attached to it, which spread along. Sockets are about 6 cm in diameter. The shade of the leaves is whitish or bluish olive with a scarlet border on the top. The length of the sheet is about 4 cm and 2 cm wide. Flowers in the form of spikelets consists of 5 flowers. Pedicle about 6 cm high.
Echeveria succulent due to its grayish-blue hue called Echeveria gray. But the inflorescences in this variety have an orange tint and are attached to the side.
This is a succulent perennial species with an expanded rosette about 20 cm in diameter. The foliage is about 6 cm in length, and due to its matte coating it has an almost white shade. The inflorescences are large in size, unlike other varieties about two centimeters. The shade of orange flowers, also with some bloom.
Bristly Echeveria This is a bush view. Shoots are very small or they are not. Poured almost spherical sockets represent almost hundreds of dark - olive leaves. The shape of the leaves is like a spatula with a sharp end. The length of the leaf is 9 cm, and the width is about 3 cm. The flowering occurs in summertime. The color of the flower is yellowish orange.
Echeveria "Black Prince" This is a succulent plant with a meaty rosette poured up to 15 cm in diameter. The shade of the leaves with a light green. Inflorescences are represented in the lateral five member. The shade of the flower is ary-chocolate or orange and is on a high stem.
Perennial view with a neat rosette with a bluish tint of leaves. Over the years, the plant grows creeping shoots. The shade of the flower is yellow-orange. Flowering occurs in mid-summer.
Echeveria Pulidonis has elongated dense leaves with scarlet edging. The shape of the socket in the form of a star.
Echeveria Miranda presents leaves with pointed bits at the ends. This species has a diverse shade of bluish, scarlet, pink or yellow. The appearance of the flower resembles a lotus.
Echeveria nodulose or nodular has a shoot about 20 cm. leaves have a red edging on the edge. Inflorescences of scarlet brown bloom in March.
Echeveria care at home
The lighting for the plant requires a bright diffused and in sufficient quantity, that is, the whole daylight hours. With sufficient light from the plant, the leaves become denser, and the edging at the leaves becomes reddish.
It is preferable to grow Echeveria south side indoors. If you have just bought a plant, then you should be accustomed to the sun gradually so that the plant does not get sunburn on the leaves. Air temperature plant prefers in the summer about 25 degrees, and in the winter not lower than 6 degrees.
How to Water Echeveria
Do not moisten the plant from the sprayer, as the leaves may start to rot. Echeveria well tolerates dry air in the room.
In the warm season, the plant is watered as needed, when the earth in the pot dries to the very bottom. Watering is needed moderate.
In winter, if the air temperature is low, then watering should be reduced to a minimum. But if the air temperature is normal, then water should be constantly as needed. Water for irrigation should be settled. Avoid when watering water on the outlet with the leaves, otherwise there is no escaping rot.
Soil for echeveria
For plants you can buy ready-made soil for cacti. Or independently mix mole land, coarse sand in equal proportions and a bit of broken stone as a drainage to the bottom or expanded clay.
During active development, the plant is fed with fertilizer for cacti. But take half the norm indicated on the package, so as not to damage the plant. In the cold season, the plant is not fertilized.
How to transplant echeveriya
Replant the plant should be every year. Capacity for echeveriya need to choose a wide and not deep. Since the rhizome of the plant is located on the surface. Transplanting should be done carefully so that the plant does not damage the leaves.
Echeveria transplantation after purchase is done, after about a few weeks. Before transplantation, it is necessary for the plant to stop watering completely. The plant should be moved to another container with a completely dry clod of soil, and after transplantation, watering should be done.
Echeveria leaf reproduction
This type of reproduction is carried out by separating the leaf from the parent plant. Then the sheet should be dried to avoid its rotting in the soil, about a week.
After that, the leaf with the outer side should be put on wet soil and maintain the temperature for rooting at about 25 degrees. After the appearance of a small rosette plants should be seated in separate containers.
Reproduction Echeveria rosettes
A more popular breeding method. For this, the daughter rosette is separated from the adult plant and the cut is cut with crushed charcoal and dried for about half a day.
After that they are planted in coarse wet sand for rooting. This method of reproduction is beneficial early emergence of peduncles.
Echeveria reproduction by cuttings
In Echeveria, reproduction by cuttings is not laborious. To do this, take a leaf stalk, and after the plant is tilted it is necessary to root in the soil or sand.
About a month later, the plant takes root.
Diseases and pests
- Most often a plant damaged by scarlet. For prevention, the plant must be treated with insecticide.
- Yellow leaves the cause may be stagnant water in the soil.
- Withering leaves The reason for this is insufficient watering of the plant.
- Echeveria dry up lower leaves. This happens most often in winter, and after the leaves fall, new babies appear.
- The leaves have fallen and begin to fall off., the cause can stagnant moisture in the cold season.
- If the foliage on the plant turns and shallows, the cause of improper insecticides.
Observing all the rules for plant care problems with growing you will not.
Optimal conditions in the house for growing
As a representative of succulents, Echeveria - slow growing long-liver. For the successful growth and development of the plant it needs to create as close as possible to the natural conditions, especially since it is not difficult.
The main condition for the well-being of Echeveria is adequate lighting. She loves sunny windowsills - southern, eastern or western. Direct sunshine she is not afraid, it does not require shading. In the summer, it is very useful to arrange a stone rose “vacation” with relocation to a lawn, an open veranda or an unglazed balcony, while not forgetting to take care of protection from rain.
Peculiarities of home care
Echeveria is a very beautiful and unpretentious flower, caring for it is not difficult. Even a novice is able to provide her with a decent living at home.
The stone rose should be provided with regular watering, which, however, should not be abundant. It is advisable to wait for the drying of the top layer of soil in a pot to 3 centimeters deep.
In winter, watering is drastically reduced to once a month; this is all the more urgent the lower the temperature is.
Echeveria does not like water entering the outlet, so you need to know how to water it. Excessive moisture can begin the process of decay.
Water should be well defended and not be cold.
Like other succulents, Echeveria requires dry air. She does not need spraying procedures, and even more so it is absolutely contraindicated for souls who will not bring any benefit, on the contrary, will harm and lead to deplorable and sometimes irreversible consequences.
When leaving the dormant phase in early spring, the stone rose should begin to feed. It is very important not to overfeed the plant, so as not to harm the delicate roots. Therefore, when using a special fertilizer for succulents, its concentration should be halved, diluting it with distilled water at room temperature.
In winter, the stone rose does not need dressing.
When and how to transfer
Echeveria is easily damaged, so the transplant should be done very carefully, avoid touching the leaves so as not to damage the wax layer. Young plants need annual habitat renewal, adults matured as needed.
Transplantation is carried out in the spring time, after leaving the resting stage. She will like the flat wide tank, equipped with good drainage:
- ceramic shards
- expanded clay
- river sand
- brick chips
- fine crushed stone
- charcoal that prevents root rot.
- not moistened earth ball out of the pot,
- gently tapping, to separate the delenki,
- clean off the old soil as much as possible
- check the root system for dead, rotted or otherwise worn out fragments, remove them,
- place the delenka in the capacity chosen for it,
- do not water for another week, then gradually moisten with small portions.
Growing from seed
Echeveria can be grown from seed, although it is the most laborious of all the existing method. If, after it blooms, a stone rose produces fruit, it is quite possible to bring it to life.
The fruit with seeds is formed due to cross-pollination.
- In late February or early March, seeds should be sown in a prepared mixture of equal parts of coarse river sand and peat mixture.
- Sowing material is extremely small and does not need to be powdered with earth, a slight indentation into the ground is sufficient.
- After this procedure, the sown seeds are not watered with water in order to avoid their leaching, uneven distribution over the surface and penetration deep into, but sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with film or glass.
- Greenhouse put in a warm place (20-25 degrees), regularly air and periodically moisten.
- After two or three weeks sprouts will start to appear. Glass or film is removed and put the container with sprouts in a bright place.
- After 2-3 months, the seedlings dive into separate small pots.
- After waiting for the diameter of young plants to reach 3 centimeters, they are transplanted to a permanent habitat.
Echeveria is interesting because its reproduction is possible even with the help of a leaf cutting.
- From the mother plant should break off a large and healthy bottom sheet and leave it to dry for a couple of hours.
- Prepare a soil mixture: 2 parts of garden soil, 1 part of calcined coarse river sand. Pour on top of 3 millimeters of sand.
- Having placed the leaf at a slight angle, it should be crushed into the soil.
- Spray freshly planted cuttings, cover with cellophane.
- The temperature content is 20-25 degrees.
- Periodically air and moisten the soil regularly.
- After 2 or 3 weeks, young sockets will appear at the base. After the final drying of the uterine leaf, they dive into personalized pots where they will dwell.
With this method, a full-fledged stone rose can be obtained within a year.
- The apical or basal rosette is cut off with a sharp knife, the lower leaves are removed and left out of the sun for a few hours to be dried.
- Prepared in a pot of soil mixture: part of the garden ground and part of the fine gravel or coarse sand.
- The socket is stuck in the ground, moistened.
- Content temperature - 20-25 degrees, constant soil moisture.
- A month later, the socket rooted and begins to grow, after 2 months it can be transplanted. With a slow growth of the outlet it is allowed to replant only the next year.
Possible difficulties in the fight against diseases and pests
Due to wax bloom, stone rose leaves are rarely attacked by pests.
- Due to damage, aphid or mealybug can be acquired. These are sucking insects, whose favorite place of settlement are the leafy sinuses. The infected leaves are covered with a sticky white bloom, dry and fall off after deformation. The means of combating parasites - washing with soapy water followed by spraying with insecticides. You can use tobacco or garlic infusion.
- If the echeveria is rotting, most likely, when watering, its outlet or leaves are flooded with water, which cannot be done in any way. Mealy dew is also a consequence of a violation of the irrigation regime. Such a problem is eliminated by transplanting the plant into a new dredger after the mandatory removal of dead or rotten fragments of the root system and the aerial part.
How often should this be done?
Florists recommend replanting young plants 1 time per yearbecause for the year it reaches the size when the pot in which it is located becomes small.
And it is desirable to do this at the very beginning of spring, in order to provide Echeveria with fresh nutrients for a hot and dry summer, when it, like all plants, will actively grow.
If the echeveria is no longer young, then you can do by replacing the top layer of earth in a potwhile taking the utmost care not to damage the velvety leaf layer, which is very easy to do.
In no case can not transplant echeveria in the winter, because in the fall, it begins to dry out, thus preparing for the upcoming wintering.
Stages of work at home
Echeveria has a shallow root system, so it will fit wide, shallow pots.. Before you pour the earth into it, you need to thoroughly rinse it with hot water.
The soil must be sufficiently loose, so the ready-made substrate for cacti will not work for transplantation, since despite its composition, for echeveria it may still not be sufficiently drained. Also in such a soil there is a lot of peat for this plant, which can cause the rapid rotting of its roots.
It is recommended to add to the substrate a choice of sand, perlite, vermiculite or crushed expanded clay.. These additives are a kind of soil disintegrant. And the most optimal soil composition for echeveria is the following:
- Garden land - 1 part.
- Any baking powder - 1 part.
- Ready substrate - 1 part.
The bark and charcoal are the nutritional supplements.
Step-by-step instructions for echeveria transplantation after purchase:
- Choose the right size pot for the plant.
- Thoroughly rinse the pot with boiling water.
- Lay on the bottom of the pot good drainage.
- Carefully pull the plant out of the previous container. It is very simple to make: it is easy enough to knock on the walls of the pot or press them.
- To disinfect the soil, it is necessary to calcine or steam it.
- Inspect its roots for damage. If they are detected, get rid of the parts of the roots with cracks or breaks with clean scissors or a knife.
- Carefully place the plant in a new pot.
- Lay the ground so that it completely hides the roots, but does not touch the leaves.
- Moderately water the plant.
When getting rid of damaged parts of the roots, you need to cut not only the diseased area, but also to seize a healthy one - 2-3 cm. Срез необходимо обработать крошкой древесного угля.
Рекомендуем посмотреть видео о правильной пересадке эхеверии в более большой горшок:
Precisely because those substrates in which flowers are grown in a store, mainly have peat in their composition, after purchasing echeveria, it is necessary to transplant into loose soil for succulents, after adding all the components listed above.
Immediately after acquiring the plant, it is necessary to transplant it into a healthy and nutritious soil, otherwise it will begin to die in a dense store substrate.
There is absolutely no difference in the usual transplant and transplantation of echeveria after purchase: the same ground, the same procedure. The only thing that needs to be remembered: young plants are transplanted once a year, and adults (2-3 years) only as needed, i.e. only acquired plant is transplanted more often than what has been on the windowsill for many years.
In open ground
If desired, this plant can be transplanted into the open ground, which is quite possible, because most species can withstand temperatures up to -5 degrees. Naturally, with the arrival of winter, the Echeveria grown outside should be dug out, and then placed in a cool room (from -5 to -10 degrees) and not watered.
If you can not provide the required coolness, you can put the flower in a moderately lit place. Produce watering no more than 1-2 times a month and do it with a small amount of water.
Step-by-step instructions for transplantation of echeveria in open ground:
- Prepare for the plant a well-lit, de-weed and wet place.
- Carefully pull the eheveriya out of the pot without damaging the velvety layer on the leaves.
- Place in the place reserved for her.
- Sprinkle with earth.
- Water moderately.
The main feature of growing such a flower in the open field: if you provide it with a good place where there is enough light and a moderate amount of moisture, it will not require any care at all, except for removing weeds around it.
Plant care in a new pot
After transplantation, the flower requires its usual care without any difficult manipulations:
- Temperature and humidity. It tolerates the dryness of the air, typical of city apartments, it also endures the winter with central heating on the window-sills. But in order to avoid damage to the wax on the leaves of the plant can not be sprayed. Feels comfortable in the summer at 22 - 25 degrees, in the winter if possible to provide 6 - 8 degrees, but can also grow at 18 - 20 degrees.
- Lighting. Unlike many indoor plants, it likes direct sunlight, which does not harm its leaves at all. It can be safely located on the southern window-sill or balcony, but then you need to protect from the rain.
- Watering. Echeveria is rather fastidious about this factor: with an excess of moisture, root decay begins, and this will be immediately apparent. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure good drainage. And with a lack of moisture leaves "notify" their sluggish and wrinkled look.
- Top dressing. Fertilizer is not recommended, because it can damage the appearance of the plant. Top dressing is allowed only during the growing season. And in the winter it cannot be done at all
On the rules of caring for eheverii at home, read here, and from this article you will learn how to get the echeverii switch and what to do next when it has faded.
What to do if it does not take root after the intervention?
If, after transplantation, the plant begins to wither and wilt, then the roots are most likely damaged when it is pulled out of the old pot. In this case, it is necessary to re-transplant, carefully inspecting the roots for the presence of fractures and cracks, which you must get rid of later. Slices are treated with ashes or chips of charcoal.
If the soil that was prepared is not loose enough, then the plant suffers from the delay of excess moisture.. Then you also need to transplant it, adding more baking powder to the substrate and taking care of drainage.
It is possible that Echeveria suffers from pests, which insecticides will easily help to get rid of. This can occur if the soil before transplanting is not heated or steamed.
On how to propagate echevera at home, read here, and from this article you will learn about what are the popular types and varieties of plants.
Echeveria (or echeveria) - a resident of the arid stony plains and mountain slopes of Central America. The flower got its name in honor of the illustrator Atanasio Eheverría, who even in the nineteenth century designed the book Flora of Mexico. Another name, "stone rose", is associated with the appearance of the plant - its dense rosettes really resemble roses.
The genus Echeveria belongs to the Tolstyankov family (Crassulaceae) and unites about two hundred species. Growth in a dry hot climate causes the main distinctive features of Echeveria. The plants have fleshy, collected in a dense rosette leaves with a length of 3 to 30 cm and a width of 1-15 cm. Leaf blades are flat or cylindrical, with a pointed tip, covered with wax or pubescent. Such a structure of the leaf allows the echeveria to tolerate sudden changes in temperature, heat and cold. The color is gray-green, the ends of the leaves are darker, reddish-brown.
The stem of most species is shortened and almost imperceptible, although there are also bushy echeveria. Echeveria blooms with bell-shaped flowers that are located on inflorescences from 4 to 50 cm long. The size of individual bells is 1-3 cm, the color is red, yellow-green, orange. Often at the ends of the peduncles an additional rosette develops with fleshy wax leaves of a smaller size than on the mother plant.
Molodil is often mistaken for echeveria, however it looks more like artichokes
On a note! Even experienced growers sometimes confuse eheveriya with another similar plant - young (Sempervivum). However, these are two completely different plants, respectively, and the conditions of their content are different. It was frost-resistant, it can be easily grown on alpine hills in open ground, while Echeveria does not tolerate sub-zero temperatures. Another difference echeverii - more fleshy and thick leaves compared with molodilom.
Echeveria as a indoor flower is represented by many species. They mainly differ in size, color of leaves and the shape of the rosette. In the content of all the varieties are absolutely unpretentious, so you can safely choose any favorite variety.
Description of Echeveria
Echeveria (Echeveria) - the brightest representative of the family Crassulaceae, evergreen shrub succulent with a shortened stem. In nature, there are about two hundred varieties of this plant. A common feature for all varieties is the presence of a fibrous surface root system, fleshy leaves collected in the socket.
A variety of types of Echeveria allows enthusiasts to collect real collections.
In nature, Echeveria grows in the countries of Mexico and Latin America, on arid plains and small mountains with the maximum amount of sunlight, the lack of regular moisture and stony-rocky soil.
This species is well selectable, which allows you to create a huge number of hybrids with excellent decorative qualities.
- Sheet plate from 3 cm to 30 cm, can be cylindrical or oval in shape, covered with a wax coating, the tip of the leaf is pointed.
- The color of the outlet varies from light green to gray, purple and reddish brown.
- The height of some species reaches 70 cm.
- The flowers of the plant are bell shaped, there are orange, red and yellow-green colors.
- Flowers echeverii like bells.
The second name of the flower - the stone rose - he received thanks to the appearance of the rosette. So called and some kindred echeveria plants.
The comparison with the plant was young
- The molodilo (sempervivum) is distinguished by its frost resistance, as well as by a special method of reproduction - it releases “mustaches” on which “children” are formed.
- The leaf plate of the young has thinner and lighter.
- Due to the lack of stems, the socket is located directly on the substrate.
- In young, in contrast to echeverii, there is practically no stem.
On the contrary, the Echeveria is very thermophilic, and with a lack of light, the stem can be pulled out. The formation of "kids" occurs at the very base of the stem.
In some sources you can see the name of Echeveria. By and large, the one and the other name is the right one. The name Echeveria in Spanish sounds like Echeveria.
- If you turn to Latin, which is usually used in botany, the name will sound like Echeveria. And in all Russian-language botanical publications (from pre-revolutionary to post-Soviet), the succulent is represented precisely by this name.
- Recently, even at international conferences, the question was raised about changing the Latin names to those that were originally given by the plant pioneers.
In the people, the plant is called the “stone rose” or “stone flower”. But it is not so important.
The main thing is that this spectacular Mexican beauty has long taken root in our homes, and for many has become a favorite indoor plant. It got its name thanks to the Mexican artist Anastasio Echeverría, who painted illustrations for books describing the flora of Mexico.
This plant is widely used to create homemade vertical gardens or flower arrangements with succulents and cacti.
Types and varieties of Echeveria
In nature, there are about 150 species, but only some are grown indoors.
This species has a grayish - bluish tint of leaves, and the rosette itself is represented by a flat shape. The shoots of the plant are straight, but with age they become horizontal and creep. Shoots are able to root themselves in the soil.
- In a large individual, the rosette reaches up to 15 cm in diameter, and its children processes are located on high lateral shoots.
- The length of the leaf reaches 5 cm, and the width of 2 cm. The inflorescences have a pink shade, or a bright scarlet shade with a yellow border on top.
This species grows in one compact outlet reaching almost 30 cm in diameter.
- Shoots either short or none at all.
- The foliage is oblong and resembles a triangle.
- The surface of the sheet is smooth and glossy in length, the sheet is about 9 cm and 6 wide.
- The pedicle appears in the center of the rosette, and reaches almost 40 cm.
- Inflorescences have a yellowish-red hue.
- The leaf has a rich green tint with scarlet edging around the edge.
Her personality lies in the fact that it is attached a large number of shoots that spread.
- Sockets are about 6 cm in diameter.
- The shade of the leaves is whitish or bluish olive with a scarlet border on the top.
- The length of the sheet is about 4 cm and 2 cm wide.
- Flowers in the form of spikelets consists of 5 flowers.
- Pedicle about 6 cm high.
Echeveria succulent due to its grayish-blue hue called Echeveria gray. But the inflorescences in this variety have an orange tint and are attached to the side.
- This is a succulent perennial species with an expanded rosette about 20 cm in diameter.
- The foliage is about 6 cm in length, and due to its matte coating it has an almost white shade.
- The inflorescences are large in size, unlike other varieties about two centimeters.
- The shade of orange flowers, also with some bloom.
This is a bush view.
- Shoots are very small or they are not.
- Poured almost spherical sockets represent almost hundreds of dark - olive leaves.
- The shape of the leaves is like a spatula with a sharp end.
- The length of the leaf is 9 cm, and the width is about 3 cm. The flowering occurs in summer.
- The color of the flower is yellowish orange.
- This is a succulent plant with a meaty rosette poured up to 15 cm in diameter.
- The shade of the leaves with a light green.
- Inflorescences are represented in the lateral five member.
- The shade of the flower is ary-chocolate or orange and is on a high stem.
Perennial view with a neat rosette with a bluish tint of leaves.
- Over the years, the plant grows creeping shoots.
- The shade of the flower is yellow-orange.
- Flowering occurs in mid-summer.
- It has elongated dense leaves with scarlet edging.
- The shape of the socket in the form of a star.
- Represents leaves with a pointed needle at the ends.
- This species has a diverse shade of bluish, scarlet, pink or yellow.
- The appearance of the flower resembles a lotus.
Differently called nodular and has a sprout of about 20 cm. The leaves have a red edging on the edge. Inflorescences of scarlet brown bloom in March.
General plant information
Echeveria or in translation from the Latin genus Echeveria is one of the plants of the Tolstyankov family (lat. C rassulaceae). To date, it is not known the exact number of varieties of such flowers, according to data from different sources, we can conclude that their approximate number is one hundred fifty - one hundred eighty species.
Most of the representatives of this genus grow in the southern states of the United States and Mexico. Some species can be found on the mainland South America, mainly in Peru. The plant prefers to dwell on the plains and in the low mountains, where in the summer time the weather is hot and sunny, and winter frosts are rare and insignificant.
The name of the genus Echeveria was due to the nineteenth century Mexican artist Atanasio Echeverria Godoy. Atanasio, in addition to paintingand, was engaged in botany, and also compiled reference books on the flora of his native country, and supplemented them with illustrations of his own performance. Given the booming activities of Echeverria in the field of botany, it was decided to name the plant in his honor.
A characteristic feature of this species is the ability of plants for interspecific crossing. Thanks to such possibilities of Echeveria, breeders were able to get several hybrid varieties. Of them should be allocated a hybrid with pachyphytum, which was called pahiviriya, graptovery, product of crossing of echeveria with grapptotalum.
All varieties and types of echeveria are typical succulent plants. This genus includes evergreen semi-shrubs and herbaceous perennials, having one main common feature - the absence of a stem. Instead, the plant has a very short, thick and fleshy stem that has intensively branched all its life.
Flower growers appreciate Echeveria for its unusual leaves, precisely because of their memorable appearance, it was decided to cultivate these plants. They are just as fleshy and smooth to the touch, like the trunk of a flower. A characteristic feature of the foliage of echeveria is its protective layer, which is designed to save the plant from direct sunlight. It may look like whitish, grayish or silver plaque, or as a light fluff, velvety to the touch. The plant is very well adapted to life under the scorching sun. The hotter the weather getsthe thicker the protective layer becomes. Because of this, the plant acquires a blue tint, and a reddish border forms along the edges of the leaves.
His appearance echeveria very reminiscent of roses, with thick petals. This form is due to the special arrangement of the leaves - they grow from the stem very often and strictly in a spiral, forming dense rosettes. From a distance, you can really take them for flowers with an unusual color. Usually it is pale green and often has a translucent additional shade: purple, red or gray. Because of such a particularity, the people call the Echeveria none other than “stone flower” or “stone rose”.
Under natural conditions, the leaves of echeveria often grow up to thirty centimeters in length and fifteen in width. Cultural specimens grown at home can not boast of such size. As a rule, they are at least twice as small as the “wild” brethren.
Peduncle echeveria is located much higher than the plant itself. It grows from the very middle of the outlet, and can reach up to thirty-five — eighty-five centimeters in length. The length of the peduncle largely depends on the belonging to a particular species. The inflorescences are in the form of an umbrella, spikelet or brush. They consist of many small flowers.resembling bells. The flowers can be painted in all shades of orange and yellow, often have a reddish or greenish tint.
The outer part of the inflorescences is much brighter than the inner. Under natural conditions, the period of flowering of plants occurs in late spring or summer, but several species prefer to enter this phase in the middle of winter. Echeveria bloom lasts about fifteen to twenty days. With natural or artificial pollination, after the inflorescences wither, fruits are formed in their place. They look like boxes with four branches, in which small seeds of muted brown color ripen.
The root system of echeveria is fibrous and branched. It is located almost on the surface of the earth.so that it is faster and easier to absorb water.
Echeveria graceful (elegans)
Echeveria graceful - is a herbaceous perennial plant. It has a very light, almost white leaves, with a green tint. They have a pointed, sometimes prickly tip and thin, almost transparent edges. A characteristic feature of this species is a strongly branched peduncle. Drooping inflorescences are in the form of small one-sided racemes. Они состоят из мелких цветочков пунцового оттенка, постепенно переходящего в жёлтый.
Эхеверия агавовидная (agavoides)
Это кустообразный суккулент, достигающий двадцати пяти — тридцати сантиметров в высоту. Особенностью этого вида является очень короткий стебель или его полное отсутствие. Листья имеют нежный салатовый оттенок и полупрозрачную кайму красноватого оттенка. При выращивании at home leaves of this species can reach four to ten centimeters in length, and five to six centimeters in width.
Flowering begins in late spring. The inflorescences are very small, only a centimeter or one and a half. Can be painted in all shades of yellow-red color. In rare cases, some flowers have a pink color.
Echeveria Derenberg (Derenbergii)
This is a herbaceous plant with creeping shoots. The leaves form a small five centimeter sockets, located on the tops of the shoots. The width of the leaves - two and a half centimeters, it is almost equal to their length - seven centimeters.
The foliage is covered with a gray bloom, and the edges and tips are reddish. The inflorescences are rather short, only five or six centimeters, have the form of spikelets. Consist of flowers of red or yellow-orange color.
Optimal conditions for the content
If you decide to purchase Echeveria, you should know how to choose the right place for its content and provide the necessary conditions for good health.
The content of echeveria should consider:
- Location The plant can be placed on the window sill of a south, southeast or southwest window. In the summer, it is useful to take out echeveria to the open air, for example, to a balcony or veranda. In the warm season, provided that in the near future there will be no frost, you can land Echeveria in the garden by building an alpine slide.
- Lighting. This succulent is very light-requiring and easily tolerates exposure to direct sunlight. Bright light does not harm the plant, but only make it even more decorative. The protective layer will become thicker and give the leaves a beautiful blue tint, and the edges of the foliage will be decorated with a red border. At first, the leaves may shrivel a little, but this is normal for flowers that have recently left the dormant period. They adapt to the bright sun gradually.
- Temperature. Under natural conditions, echeveria calmly carries over forty-degree heat, but the optimum temperature for keeping at home is twenty-three to twenty-eight degrees Celsius. In winter, the plant should be rearranged in a cool room with a temperature of seven to ten degrees above zero. Small drops of the flower are not terrible. He is able to winter even at eighteen to twenty degrees of heat.
- Air humidity. Echeveria does not need a certain humidity. She does not need spraying from a spray even on very hot days. From the excess moisture variegated and bright hybrids can fade and turn pale. Standard humidity ordinary apartment is enough for them.
Echeveria - home care
In nature, echeveria grows under the scorching sun and prefers stony soils, from which it can be concluded - she does not need special care. Frequent feeding, abundant watering - all this is not for echeverii.
The main thing you should know when growing such a flower at home - do not pour or overfeed such plants.
In spring and summer, echeveria is watered no more than once every seven to ten days, the mode of irrigation directly depends on the weather and the appearance of the flower. Always pay attention on the edges of the foliage, the thicker it is, the less moisture is required by the plant. For irrigation, use soft water, after preserving it for at least a day. Most echeveria like filtered and distilled water.
Between irrigation should take as much time as it requires an earthen coma to dry thoroughly. But to the drying of the soil, when it begins to move away from the pot, you should not bring it up. The main sign of lack moisture are wrinkles on the foliage.
With the onset of August, the frequency of watering is gradually reduced. This is necessary in order to prepare the plant for the winter. The interval between irrigation should be doubled approximately.
When watering do not allow moisture on the leaves and inside the outlet. In the first case, it can lead to burns of foliage, and in the second to the beginning of rotting of the flower. It is better to use the method of lower irrigation, that is, fill the pot tray with water, and after waiting fifteen - twenty minutes, drain the remaining moisture from it.
During the period of active growth Succulent Echevera fertilize enough once a month. For these purposes, a solution is prepared from water and liquid mineral supplements for cacti and succulents.
The proportions indicated on the package should be halved. Fertilizer is added to the water and watered the plant.
Usually Echeveria begins to bloom in spring or summer, not taking into account the species that prefer to tsvetnosit in winter. But many growers enjoy thethat this succulent belongs to the plants of a short day and achieve flowering at the right time.
For this you need to create special conditions. and in two months echeveriya will blossom:
- Provide a plant a twelve hour light day.
- Maintain temperature at 16–18 degrees above zero.
Echeveria is an undemanding and picky plant, but errors in caring for it can only be a flower of decorative qualities.
Let us examine what problems can occur with the "stone rose" and what could lead to similar consequences:
- Dark spots on the leaves. When watering the water fell on the leaves, or when transplanting, you erased the protective layer of the plant.
- The bases of the leaves and stems are blackened, they begin to fall off the plant. Echeveria flower began to rot. This could be caused by too much watering or too low a temperature.
- Foliage is deformed and loses its shape. Most often this results in excess concentration of fertilizer or too hard water for irrigation.
- The leaves turn pale, and the shoots are drawn out. Echeveria is not enough light.
Landing after purchase
A new echeverius, bought in a store, needs to be transplanted urgently. Usually, the soil in which the plant goes on sale is unable to provide normal conditions for the life of the flower for a long time.
Subsequently, in order to maintain the decorativeness of the plant, it is transplanted every two to three years.
In need of transplanting plants, sockets which strongly protrude beyond the edges of the tank.
For young individuals may require an annual transplant.
Under natural conditions, echevera prefers rocky substrates that do not trap moisture.
Composition of soil for planting
For cultivation in the pot the optimal mixture is as follows:
- sod land
- sand (1: 2: 1),
- small amount of charcoal.
You can use the standard soil for cacti, which is worth adding any small drainage.
The pot is chosen wide low, best of all ceramic. Depending on the diameter, one or more drainage holes are made in the bottom.
It is best to choose low ceramic pots, the diameter of which corresponds to the size of the outlet, for planting Echeveria.
The transplant procedure is as follows:
- Spread drainage from stones, tiles or expanded clay approximately ¼ of capacity.
- Calcined for disinfection soil mixture.
- Dusted with cooked substrate.
- The transplanted plant is removed from the old soil, inspecting and cutting diseased and damaged roots. Slices sprinkled with activated carbon
- Echeveria is buried in a well-moistened soil.
In the first week, additional soil moisture will not be needed.
How to make a mix of succulents in the florarium
Currently, it is very popular to grow Echeveria, alone or in combination with other succulents, in the florarium (a small vegetable greenhouse), recreating the original desert or semi-desert landscape from one or several flower varieties.
Echevera will be perfectly combined with plants such as:
- cacti, both forest and desert,
- the fat woman
For florarium it is better to choose compact varieties of echevery.
The process of creating a composition
For the manufacture of florarium:
- Take a glass transparent container of sufficient size, wipe it from the inside with alcohol.
- Prepare succulents for planting, wash their roots, lower for 30 seconds in a pink solution of potassium permanganate.
- Pour a quarter-high layer of calcined or otherwise decontaminated drainage mixed with pounded activated charcoal.
- Then pour the same layer of soil on top.
- With the help of tweezers, land a few echeveries of different varieties or create a composition of succulents.
- Decorate the free ground space: fill it with pebbles or colored ground (you can take an aquarium one), place figures on request.
- Water the plants gently with a small bore.
It is not necessary to cover the florarium with succulents with glass, they prefer dry air. As a care, provide bright lighting and more sparse watering than pots-grown succulents.
Be prepared for the fact that sooner or later your plants will become small florarium and it will have to be "settled" again.
Most species of Echeveria grow in high-mountainous regions of Mexico, where low humidity and not too high temperatures during the daytime, on average, are not higher than + 30 ° С, but rather sharp daily fluctuations of temperatures.
- Therefore, the optimum conditions for growth are 22-26 ° C during the day and 16-20 ° C at night (a daily difference between day and night temperatures of 10 ° C is ideal).
- At temperatures above 32 ° C, move the pots to a cooler place or provide shading.
Echeverias are very demanding for fresh air, closed unventilated rooms are not for them, if possible, ventilate or place the pots in the open air as often as possible (balcony, shed, veranda).
- In winter, the temperature should be lowered - ideal conditions for the winter period are + 15-16 ° C during the day, about + 8 ° C at night, with a significant restriction of irrigation.
- Many species echeverias in nature grow in colder conditions, when at night the temperature drops to + 4-6 ° С, but Dutch (Polish and other) plants grown in greenhouses, especially varietal and hybrid ones, are more capricious and do not tolerate such harsh conditions, it is enough for them to set a minimum of + 12 ° С.
- However, the constant cultivation throughout the year in warm room conditions, especially with the autumn-winter lack of light, seriously depletes succulents. When it is impossible to provide a cool overwintering, additional lighting is required.
Echeveria needs a very good bright ambient light in the afternoon, direct sun in the morning or in the evening.
- In central Russia, shading from 12 to 16 hours in the period from March to August (February for the weather).
- On the windows of the north orientation is too dark. Between September and the end of January there is no need for shading, and if the room is warm, then ideally you should put the pots on the southern window-sill, or arrange additional lighting with lamps (daylight, fluorescent) so that the total duration of the day is 12-14 hours.
In the lighting, try to avoid three things: the content on the northern windows, a dramatic change in the sunlight and the scorching afternoon sun in the spring and summer.
Drastic changes in lighting cause stress in plants. If you move pots from wintering or to fresh air in spring, do it gradually.
- Two or three hours of the morning sun, during the week (the rest of the time is shading with gauze, tulle, white paper), then a couple of hours longer in the sun and so until they get used to living in full sun all day. After accustoming to the sun on some days, shading may still be needed!
- The danger is not so much the sun itself (after all, the leaves are covered with a protective wax bloom), how much heat - the plants can overheat, dry up and die from heatstroke.
- In the southern regions the sun is too aggressive and the leaves get burned, so consider the climatic features of your region.
During the warm season (spring-summer or warm wintering), watering is regular and plentiful, during the cold period (in winter and in summer with cold snaps) watering is moderate. What does it mean:
- abundant watering - the frequency of watering immediately after the soil is completely dried, on the same day or the next day (depending on temperature)
- moderate watering - watering frequency - after full drying of the soil watering after a few days, depending on the temperature, for example, at 18 ° C - after drying, wait 3-4 days, if 14 ° C - about 7-10 days, if + 8 ° C - watering once a month or less.
Why temperature variation: it depends on how stable they are, because there are daily fluctuations and fluctuations during the month, which means that the gardener needs to navigate himself and make a decision. Remember that when the temperature drops, it is better not to pour out than to pour.
General rules for watering:
- Do not pour water on the leaves and the base of the outlet.
- Use only soft water (filtered, boiled), it is not allowed to use water-softening reagents, except for special means for the preparation of aquarium water (top fish).
- After watering, the soil should be completely wetted, after a strong overdrying, if water does not immediately seep or quickly flows along the walls of the pot, you need to shed several times in a row, then drain the water from the sump, this ensures that all the soil and root mass becomes wet. With uneven wetting of the roots remains overdried and dies.
- Before the next watering, the soil in the pot should be completely dry.
Do not keep the soil moist for too long, if the pot does not dry out longer than 1-2 days - then you have the wrong soil! In general, echeverias do not like constant moisture or dry soil.
You can buy ready-made soil for succulents, half of which consists of sand. And if you want to prepare the mixture for echeveria yourself, then in addition to the sand, you will still need equal proportions of leaf and sod land.
- Such a composition will also suit: one part of peat and loamy soil and two parts of coarse sand.
- At the base of the plant will not interfere with an additional layer of sand. This is necessary to improve drainage.
- In addition, so echeveriya looks more attractive. Drainage should occupy a third of the volume of the pot.
Young specimens are transplanted annually, in the spring, adults only as needed. This should be done very carefully, as the plant is easily damaged.
For landing the best fit flat wide tanks with well-equipped drainage system. The drainage layer of clay shards, expanded clay or pebbles should occupy about 1/3 of the pot.
Stone rose prefers a neutral, low-nutritional, friable substrate, which can be based on a ready-made specialized mixture for succulents.
It is necessary to add coarse-grained river sand, fine crushed stone or brick chips and crushed charcoal to prevent root rot.
In the phase of active growth, which usually occurs in the summer, when there is warmth and a lot of light, it is worth feeding the rosette. Especially when it blooms, but not more than once a month, as excessive feeding can damage the plant. You can use store fertilizer for succulents.
If the plant is transplanted, then there is enough nutrients in the fresh soil and the plant does not need additional nutrition for two months.
The main condition for flowering of echeveria is the intensity of the luminous flux.
- Each species blooms in its time. If you successfully pick up a collection and organize artificial lighting, then you can watch them bloom for a whole year.
- Sometimes pets for some reason do not want to bloom. They need to increase daylight hours to 12–13 hours for 1.5–2 months and maintain the temperature from 15 to 18 ° C.
- During this period, the plant will begin to veget quickly, and the first buds will appear. And then the charming tender bells.
The flowers are successfully pollinated and viable seeds ripen in the resulting boxes.
For breeding rosette it is necessary to carry out the following operations:
- Carefully cut off the tip with a sharp knife.
- Leave it for a few days, so that the end of the stem dries out, without touching the wet ground, otherwise it may rot.
- After the end is completely dry, you need to leave the outlet on a wet surface until young roots form.
It is practically not necessary to deepen the cutting
Everything - the top is ready for landing. A pretty bowl, a loose earth, moderate watering - and the young socket will surely grow. By the way, the mother plant will also continue to grow.
After removing the tops on the stem, new sockets usually appear.
When breeding with side rosettes, it is also necessary to carefully cut off the stem below the level of the soil that connects the "baby" with the mother plant and try to leave as many roots as possible on the stem with a sharp knife. Fade the tip - and the outlet is ready for transplant.
- Side rosettes can be called those that some echeverii formed on the stalk after the separation of the apical rosette.
- They need to be allowed to grow well, and then, under the very base, cut off and simply put on a loose, moist, earth.
- And do not press into it. Emerging roots quickly catch on the soil.
If the winter for echeveria was too warm and dimly lit, the sockets are drawn out, the leaves sit loose, loose, at the base too pale. Они не поменяют вид, если улучшить условия, поэтому проще возобновить растение из листа (переукоренить отдельные листики).
- Самые распространенные проблемы у Эхеверий из-за неправильного полива.
- Нельзя поливать с выверенной частотой по дням или часам.
- Ориентир для полива — исключительно погодные условия, температура и скорость просыхания грунта.
- Любые нарушения — пересушка или переувлажнения способны вызывать увядание, сморщивание и отмирание листьев. Наблюдайте за изменениями климата, делайте поправки.
The most dangerous moments are the off-season periods, for example, when heating is turned off in the spring or a sharp cooling occurs in August - changes in temperature and humidity strongly affect the rate of water evaporation from the soil and watering is needed more rarely.
On particularly hot days in the summer, in small pots, the earth can dry out literally in hours. If you accidentally forget to open the window on the sunny balcony, the plants will burn or suffocate.
Uncoupling heavily dried specimens will not help, to protect the plants from drying out during the hot period. Do not leave them in full sun or shade the pots, wrap them in white paper, repot them in time (if the ends of the leaves protrude over the edge of the pot), water in the morning, if the heat does not subside in the evening , and the soil is dry, water again.
In general, echeveria can be described as follows: these are drought-resistant plants when there is no strong heat. An ideal place for them in the apartment is the window sill of a southeast window or a very bright oriental window.
What does echeveria look like?
The genus Echeveria (Echeveria) is a member of the Crassulaceae family (сrassulaceae). In total, according to various data, there are from 150 to 180 species of these succulents in nature. The homeland of most of them is Mexico and the southern states of the United States, but individual representatives can also be found in South America (Peru). The plant prefers low mountains and plains, where in summer almost all days are hot and sunny, and in winter frosts, if there are, are very infrequent and insignificant.
The genus got its name in honor of the 19th century Mexican artist Atanasio Echeverria Godoy, who, in addition to his main activity, was interested in botany, composing and illustrating books on the flora of his homeland.
The collection of echeverias guaranteed will not go unnoticed
A characteristic feature is the ability to interspecific mating. Pachyveria (a hybrid with pachyphytum), graptoperia (with graptopetalum) were obtained by breeding.
All echeverias are typical succulents. These are evergreen herbaceous or semi-shrub perennials that do not have a stem. It is replaced by a fat, short, fleshy, intensely branching trunk. The main thing that flower growers appreciate for Echeveria is leaves. They are also fleshy, even, smooth to the touch. A characteristic feature is a layer of whitish, silvery or grayish plaque or velvety to the touch hairiness. This is protection from the scorching sun. And the hotter it is on the street, the thicker the layer becomes. Because of this, he turns blue, and a noticeable reddish border appears on the edges of the leaves.
Leaves, often and strictly arranged in a spiral, form dense rosettes. From afar, they can be taken for flowers. The illusion is supported by an unusual color - pale green, with a light purple, red, gray tint. Because of this, Echeveria has earned its unofficial popular name - “stone rose” or “stone flower”.
In nature, leaves reach sizes of 3–30 cm in length and 1.5–15 cm in width. At home, the parameters are about twice as modest.
Peduncle echeveria is much higher than the plant itself. Growing from the middle of the rosette, depending on the species, it can reach 35–85 cm. The inflorescence is in the form of a brush, an ear or an umbrella, with many flowers resembling very small bells. All shades of yellow and orange predominate, sometimes with a greenish or reddish tinge. Outside, the color is slightly brighter than inside. In nature, Echeveria blooms in late spring or summer, with the exception of a few species that prefer to do it in the middle of winter. Flowering is quite long - 15–20 days. If natural or artificial pollination occurs, fruit-boxes with five nests are tied, in which small seeds of dull brown color ripen.
Echeveria flowers are pretty pretty.
The roots of the plant are located almost on the surface - so it is easier and faster to absorb moisture. The root system is fibrous, branched.
Differences from the young
Echeveria due to external similarity is quite often confused with another plant that belongs to the family of pulpwort - semperium (in the people - zhivuchka or young). However, unlike him, the Echeveria extremely negative attitude to any cold.
The leaves of the sempervivum look thinner, sleeker, sometimes may even appear translucent, the sockets are smaller in size. Even adult specimens of the young do not form stems. Outlets as if lying on the ground. Echeveria, especially with a lack of light and heat, is able to stretch. The lower leaves fall off, the socket rises.
To leave no doubt, you need to wait for the appearance of offspring. In Echeveria, "babes" develop only at the base of the stem. Rejuvenated for this produces "mustache", at the ends of which are formed offspring.
Echeveria and young people belong to the same family and are quite similar, but there are several distinctive features
To preserve the decorativeness, it is recommended that young Echeveria be transplanted every year after the end of the rest period. Adults need only one transplant in 2–3 years; during breaks, you can simply take off the upper 1-2 cm of the soil and replace it with fresh. Transplant procedures can be avoided by growing them in hydroponics.
To soil the plant is undemanding. It should not be too nutritious, light and loose. A standard primer for succulents is fine. However, experienced growers prepare the substrate themselves, mixing in equal proportions fertile turfy soil, large river sand and adding a glass of sifted wood ash and small red brick crumbs for every 3 liters of soil. Or another option - mixed in equal proportions of turf ground, powder clay with sand and twice the size of universal soil for decorative leafy houseplants. If you take the soil from your own plot, find out the level of acidification in advance. Sour soil for Echeveria is not suitable.
Since the root system in Echeveria is superficial and branched, choose a pot that looks like a bowl - not high, but wide. Mandatory requirement - a large drainage hole. At least a quarter of the volume should be occupied by the drainage of expanded clay, pebbles, ceramic shards, brick chips. Significantly increase the volume of the pot compared to the previous one is not necessary. A difference of 2–3 cm in diameter is quite sufficient. Ideally, the pot should be ceramic and light so that it does not heat up so much in direct sunlight.
A deep pot of echeveria is not needed
When transplanting, pay special attention to touching the leaves as little as possible. The protective coating on them is very easy to erase accidentally.
You also need to carefully examine the roots and cut off the dried, dead, rotten with a sharp disinfected knife. Remove with a margin, capturing another 2-3 cm of root, which looks healthy. Sections immediately sprinkle with powdered activated carbon.
The soil before transplanting should be slightly moistened with an atomizer and inserted into the earthen room a slowly absorbable fertilizer in the form of sticks. The transplanted echeveria is watered moderately. In the next week, watering is no longer needed. Renew it gradually.
Echeveria grow well in florariums
At home, Echeveria quietly grows under the scorching sun on stony soils. Accordingly, it does not need abundant watering or frequent fertilizer. The main thing - do not pour and overfeed the flower.
In spring and summer, echeverias are watered on average once every 7–10 days, depending on the weather outside and the type of plant. The thicker the pubescence, the less it needs moisture. Water must be taken soft, settled for at least a day, ideally - distilled or filtered.
The earthen clod from the previous time should dry out well, but it is undesirable to bring the plant to such a state when the soil starts to move away from the edges of the pot. Another sign of lack of moisture - wrinkles on the leaves.
Since August, watering is gradually reduced, preparing the plant for a period of rest. The interval is approximately doubled.
Avoid getting water inside the outlet and on the leaves themselves. In the first case, rotting may begin, in the second case, sunburns are very likely. It is best to use bottom watering, pouring water into the pot tray and after 15–20 minutes pouring off the excess.
In the phase of intensive growth of Echeveria, one additional feeding per month is sufficient. For this, a liquid mineral fertilizer solution is prepared for cacti and succulents. The proportion recommended by the manufacturer is halved. Fertilizer is added to the water for irrigation.
Echeveria needs a sufficiently long rest period, which lasts from mid-autumn to the end of winter. At this time, the flower is transferred to a cold, bright place with a temperature of 7–10 ° C, reduce watering to once a month and do not fertilize at all.
In principle, the Echeveria overwinter in the standard conditions of the apartment, but in this case there will most likely not be flowering. If you leave the flower in the same room, you need more frequent watering. Signal to the fact that it is time, are wilted, withered leaves. The specimens blooming in winter are kept warm.
If the rest period was organized according to all the rules, in spring or summer (with the exception of some species in which it occurs in winter), Echeveria will bloom.
Using the fact that the flower belongs to the category of plants of a short day, you can “deceive” nature and achieve flowering at the right time. To do this, echeverias older than one year for 50–60 days need to create special conditions: lighting for 12–13 hours daily and a temperature of 16–18ºС.
Table: Diseases and pests of Echeveria
- At the slightest sign of damage to the scarlet, the injured echeveria must be isolated.
- Then the flower is wiped with a cotton pad dipped in a soap-alcohol solution, and all visible pests are removed. In a liter of hot water you need to dilute 15 g of small chips of laundry soap and 20 ml of medical alcohol.
- If the pest has not yet spread in large quantities, they resort to folk remedies - an infusion of garlic shooters, dry citrus crusts sprinkle the flower, the soil and the pot, cover with a plastic bag, seal tightly and leave for two days. To prepare the infusion, 50 g of crushed raw material is poured with a liter of warm water and left for a day.
- The plant must be dried well. A minimum of 3-4 treatments with an interval of 5-7 days will be required.
- If there is no visible effect, use insecticides, strictly following the manufacturer's instructions, including regarding the frequency of processing. Actellic, Aktara, Phosphamide, Nurell-D have proven themselves in the best way. It is better to carry out the second and subsequent treatments, changing the preparations so that the pests do not have time to develop immunity.
- The best prevention is to follow the recommendations regarding irrigation and periodical (once in 1–1.5 months) soil wetting with an insecticide solution in half concentration.
- The only way to give at least some guarantee is to transplant the plant. The old pot and pan are thoroughly washed and boiled, the ground is thrown away, the new one must be sterilized. The roots of the plant are washed with hot (45-50ºС) water.
- Insecticides - Mospilan, Konfidor, Regent, Aktellik, Fitoverm.
- For prophylaxis, you can add 1 g of the preparation to 2 liters of water for a month for watering.
Rooting cuttings and outlets
The most reliable way to get new eheveriya - affiliated socket. But not all species, they often form at home. Therefore, in semi-shrub plants, a side shoot or apex can be cut (the optimal length is about 10 cm).
Separating offspring, try not to harm the plant
Rooting procedure looks like this:
- With the next transplant with a sharp knife, trying to injure the plant as little as possible, cut off the daughter outlet or cutting. Sprinkle with crushed activated carbon.
- Carefully break off the lower leaves, exposing 2-3 cm of the stem. Wrap in a paper napkin or place in a glass so that the cut does not touch anything, and leave it in the open air. The minimum period is 10–12 hours. In plants with a thick, fleshy stem, drying can take several days or even a week.
- Stick planting material vertically in pots filled with a mixture of leafy soil and coarse sand (2: 1). Lightly seal the ground. You can also mix sand and vermiculite equally.
- After a day or two, water the plant with water, the temperature of which is 2–3 ° C higher than room temperature. Further watering - as the substrate dries. Rooting cuttings occur within 7-10 days.
A healthy leaf should be separated from the shoot below without any signs of deformation, signs of damage by pests and other pathologies, and dried for 8–10 hours.
In the middle of spring or early summer, it is placed cut down into coarse sand or a mixture in equal proportions of dry peat with soil for cacti. When the cut-off site dries up, a growth bud appears, from which the young echeveria is formed. 3-4 months for rooting is a normal term. It can be reduced by creating a constant temperature of 23–25ºС for the plant.
About a month later, when the mother leaf dries completely, the resulting plants can be transplanted into the ground. Look after them like cuttings.
Root can be obtained from any echeveriya
Seeds of echeveria appear at home only after artificial pollination. If successful, you need to wait for the fruit-box to crack at the "seams".
At the end of winter or in early spring, the collected planting material is laid out on the surface of the soil in shallow containers filled with sand and dry peat in a 1: 1 ratio. To speed up the emergence of shoots, some growers recommend wrapping the seeds in a cloth and holding them in wet peat for 2–3 days.
To create a greenhouse effect, containers are covered with glass or plastic film. As the substrate dries out, it is moistened, and the plantings are ventilated daily. The optimum temperature is 20–23ºС. Under these conditions, seedlings will appear in 12-18 days.
After the formation of three true leaves, the seedlings dive into separate containers filled with a mixture of leafy earth or universal soil for indoor plants and sand in a 2: 1 ratio.
Echeveria seedlings need to be transplanted in 3-4 months
When new sockets reach a diameter of 3-4 cm, they are transplanted into small pots. In the future, take care in the same way as for adult echeveriya.
Flower grower reviews
When I bought echeveriya, the sellers said that it was necessary to water it carefully, without touching the leaves, and also it is necessary to carefully handle the surface of the leaves - visually the leaves are dusty - a gray-blue bloom, but this is a protective layer of a flower! Watered her baby out of a pipette, transplanted into a small pot and went! Leaves increased, the lower ones died away, the upper ones grew. By removing the lower leaves, it was possible to consider the trunk. There is a flower on a sunny window, it is watered as the soil dries. Requires nothing, not naughty, not sick. Over time, my flower turned into a gray-blue hat on a leg, but one day, several years later, she surprised and gathered a whole "family" around herself! Echeveria released an arrow with the same "dusty" leaves, only more rare. A few days later “dusty” orange bells appeared on the arrow! With sharp edges and some kind of fabulous golden stamens! And now it blooms all the time! And continues to grow! Any leaf that fell from it into the ground, immediately sprouts, so that with its reproduction problems will not arise.
Echeveria lived in my eastern window, but the light was not enough, and my “rosette”, cm 12 in height, stretched out as a result. The spectacle was not very attractive, it began to light up - the top was compacted, but the bottom is still bald and loose. It turned out cabbage on the leg. And a friend came to me. Twisted-skewered pot. And in the end, of course, he was on the floor. My echeveria broke. The top with 6-7 leaves gave this pest, and the stem with 4-5 leaves was a pity to throw away, planted again in the pot. And she left for a month. I come, and there the whole bush was formed. I like this tree even more.
On a dry window sill in the winter, a fungus quickly spread on the leaves of Echeveria. And one winter she found a place on the shelf by the window - in the first row, so as not to stretch, but in a corner, so that the sun would not fall on it for so long. On the battery put water in a bowl. She liked it all so much that by spring it became even more beautiful and expanded. I was delighted, by the summer I put it on the balcony - there it was even better.
Echeveria - stemless, perennial, herbaceous, undersized plant, the leaves are very dense, spiral, form a rosette. Having a negative experience, I took care of the flower more thoroughly. Put in a well-lit place, ensured normal watering. It is important that between watering the soil should be allowed to dry in a pot. In the summer and spring, once a month I fertilize the soil with fertilizers for cacti, and in the winter I reduce watering to a minimum. Частой пересадки растение не требует, осуществляется пересадка только весной, очень осторожно, при этом желательно грунт полить кипятком, чтобы исключить возможность жизни всяких нехороших червячков и букашек. Растение очень красивое и полезное, способствует повышению влажности воздуха в помещении.
Эхеверия или каменная роза — отличный выбор для желающих завести в квартире не слишком капризную и привередливую экзотику. Она гарантированно не останется незамеченной, легко размножается и приспосабливается к широкому диапазону условий существования.