Gardeners of middle and northern latitudes have long appreciated the apricot Triumph of the North. Frost resistance and disease resistance make this variety desirable in every garden.
Professor A. N. Venyaminov all his life engaged in the creation of frost-resistant stone fruit crops. Having crossed the Krasnoshchy and the Northern Early varieties, he received a variety that, for one reason or another, was never entered into the register of selection achievements of the Russian Federation. However, this does not prevent him from being in demand and loved.
The tree in the garden is grown for the sake of the fruits themselves. That is why the description of the apricot variety Triumph North, you must start with a description of the stone fruit.
Apricot tree of this variety is round, sometimes slightly elongated. Usually the weight of one medium fruit is within 35 - 40 g, but in fruitful years, when nature gives an excess of the ovary, and the tree has not dropped it, the fruit is a little smaller. In lean years, when a few dozen fruits are tied up on a tree, they reach a decent size, and their taste is much richer.
Considering the fruits of apricots Triumph North in the photo, it becomes clear that the color scheme can vary. This is significantly affected by:
- landing site
- cultivation area.
Having decided to grow an apricot of the North Triumph variety in the central or northern regions, it is necessary to understand that it will not be as sweet as the fruits grown in the southern latitudes, however, it will retain its unique and amazing taste.
The flesh of the fruit is soft and juicy, but the skin is rather thick and slightly sour, with a pleasant and long aftertaste. The aroma of the fruit is strong enough with a train. The outer coating of the apricot is pleasant with a light edge. The stone is well separable, medium size, yellow-brown.
The tree is pleased with its fruits from the middle of summer, depending on the region of cultivation.
Fruits perfectly behave in processing. The prudent hostess will cook from the sunny fruits and compote, and jam, and jam, and juice.
The vigorous variety of apricot North Triumph, whose tree height reaches four meters, does not always make it possible to remove the fruit completely and not damaged. In addition, they are tight enough to hold on the branches, and not every wind can drop them on the ground. However, long, large, powerful branches and sprawling volumetric crown can easily withstand fruit picker.
The leaf of this apricot is quite large, pointed, with small teeth, dark green with moderate gloss.
The Apricot Variety Triumph of the North enters fruiting for 4 - 5 years. However, this only happens when the tree is planted correctly.
Planting and care
Thermophilic stone fruit culture, of course, requires special attention and a special place in the garden. She needs to give the lightest, protected from the northern winds area. Plant a tree on the south side of the house or another building. Southerner can be protected by tall trees planted to the north, as well as fences.
When planting, consider both your buildings and neighbors. Specify in advance whether there are no plans for the neighbors ahead of apricot, to plant a large tree - there will be no fruit in the shadow.
Apricot Triumph of the North, a beautiful self-fruited, variety. He does not require a pollinating partner. A wind is enough to turn its flowers into an ovary. But the return frost at the time of flowering does not always pass without a trace for the apricot. However, the correct fit will help to cope with this problem.
When purchasing a sapling, consider a few trees, and choose the most “stocky”, this will contribute to a good survival rate and will give rise to growth and development.
Pay attention to the seller of seedlings. Replanting and varietal nonconformity can cost you several years of waiting, and then uprooting a barren tree. Give preference to proven and certified nurseries.
The best planting time for early flowering stone fruit is autumn. In the spring, they quickly enter the phase of sap flow, and the interruption of this process does not always successfully affect survival.
Apricot Variety Triumph Northern in planting and care will not be much different from other varieties. However, given its high yield, you need to worry about feeding.
Apricot does not accept close groundwater and acidic soils. If the land is fresh, before planting it is necessary to start long before planting the seedling. Dig a hole. Enrich the soil with fresh compost, humus and superphosphate. Give the opportunity to lie down and “ripen” the soil mixture. At this point, soil microorganisms will process all the ingredients and make them bio-available for tree consumption.
The annual introduction of the furnace ash into the tree trunk circle will provide the tree with potassium and phosphorus, which will have a positive effect on flowering and fruit set.
Description of Apricot Variety Triumph North
In Russia, the Triumph of the North is doing well in the middle lane. With success it is grown in northern latitudes with its ability to withstand rather low temperatures, up to 33 degrees . Long winters do not frighten him, as well as unexpected frosts. At the beginning of flowering, unfortunately, the plant is not able to withstand strong frosts.
Venyaminov Alexey Nikolaevich for the first time announced a new variety of apricot, which was called the Triumph of the North. A new variety was discovered at the Department of Horticulture of the University of Peter the Great, which was bred from two: Northern Early and Krasnoshcheky. Selection work took place in the south of the Central Black Earth region. It is in this zone that it is most common. Apricot Triumph North is resistant to both frost and heat. Nevertheless, he needs constant care.
The tree is tall, can grow up to four meters. Wide crown with large leaves with small tubercles at the edges, the branching is medium, the branches are thick. The average fruit weight is 60 g, the fruits are oval asymmetrical. Ripe fruits are yellow-pink with a thick, velvety skin and a small down. The flesh is juicy, well behind the stone. Sweet taste is combined with sourness, which gives it a peel. Inside the apricot there is an orange bone.
Triumph of the North in bloom
When a tree blooms - the beauty is extraordinary. It is covered with many white flowers. From it comes a pleasant aroma.
As a rule, the tree lives about 25 years .
Fruit ripening occurs from late July to mid-August. The first harvest is usually about 5 kg . Fully fruiting apricot begins at 4 years of life after planting. The yield of one tree reaches 60 kg . Fruitful and lean years are peculiar to the variety.
For eating immediately or for drying, the fruits are harvested at the stage of consumer maturity, that is, fully matured. The period of technical maturity, when apricots have gained the maximum weight and the corresponding color, is optimal for transportation, but the flesh remains hard.
The collection takes place on sunny days when the dew has evaporated. When harvesting during the cooling period, the taste of the fruit deteriorates and they are stored for a short time.. High temperatures are also not suitable for picking, apricots will not be stored for a long period of time. The appropriate collection time is before noon or in the evening after 5 pm
The merits of the variety
Apricot Triumph Northern has many advantages compared to other varieties:
- quick start fruiting,
- resistance to low temperatures and light frosts during flowering,
- flowers and fruits are very firmly attached to the tree,
- kernels in underwire eaten, the taste is reminiscent of almonds,
- self-pollinated varietytherefore one tree can be grown in the garden,
- resistance to diseases,
- beautiful view during flowering.
There are no disadvantages of this variety. Some gardeners consider it insufficiently large, others unsuitable for conservation.
Growing apricot Triumph in the north will be successful with strict observance of the rules: selection, planting, timely watering, pruning, dressing, proper care.
Requirements for seedlings
For planting in the soil is better to use seedlings. They are sold in specialty stores or markets. Particular attention is paid to ensure that the root is tightly covered, otherwise it may dry out.. Well, if the planting material is located in the container in which it was seeded. So they are much easier to get used to the new ground and quickly take root.
Choosing a place for planting and rules of care
The best landing time is considered the end of April or the beginning of May. In autumn, in October, seedlings are planted, which are in the container.
Apricot Place Triumph North is selected based on the following conditions:
- Good wind protection.
- Gentle slope in the south or southwest of the plot.
- Topsoil should be without pits, with good ventilation.
- The soil is soft, loose, with normal acidity (6-7 PH).
- The place should be on the site where groundwater is located at a depth of not less than 2 m otherwise the plant will not develop.
2 weeks before planting, a hole is dug, its width is 60 cm, depth - 70 . A garter peg is placed in the center of the pit, a small gravel is poured (3 cm). After that, the mixture is poured into the depression by a slide, which is about 20 cm high.
Planting is done only in fertile mix.. For its preparation, clay, peat and sand are taken in equal parts. In the middle of the mound, a hole is made, the size of which corresponds to the roots of the tree and is half filled with water. When water is absorbed into the soil, a seedling should be placed in the recess. The roots spread evenly over the area of the mix and sprinkled with soil. While the tree is taking root, it should be slightly shaken, so that the soil becomes more loose and increases the access of oxygen to the root system.
It is very important that the root collar does not protrude above the soil. If it is visible, the tree will develop poorly, grow and be exposed to various diseases. It will be right to plant trees at an optimal distance - 5 m one from another.
If planting occurs in the spring, then in May and June produced abundant watering. If watering is not done, crown growth slows down and the number of buds decreases. Seasoned gardeners advise to stop watering two to three weeks before ripening. Then the fruits will be large and juicy. In the fall, abundant watering is not recommended so that the tree has time to prepare for frost.
With proper care for the apricot triumph Northern need is pruning. The most suitable months for this procedure are March or October. First, dry and undeveloped branches are removed. Then you can form a crown, shortening the side branches. Cut locations lubricated with garden pitch. You can use oil paint. Before wintering, whitewashing is applied to the cut areas in November. Lime will save the plant from infection and sunburn.
Crown Forming Scheme Apricots Triumph North
Like all cultivated plants, apricots need fertilizer fertilization, the number of which depends on the size and condition of the tree:
- Nitrogenous fertilizers are used 3 times per season.: shortly before flowering, after the flowers fall, after the ovaries have fallen off. Fertilizers are applied in the amount of 30 g per 1 m2.
- Potash fertilizers are brought in when the trees bear fruit. The amount ranges from 40 g to 60 g per 1 m2.
- Superphosphate poured into the previously prepared grooves around the trunk. Top dressing is made before flowering and after. Calculation: from 50 g to 70 g per 1 m2.
- Manure need to be fed once every two or three years - 4 kg per 1 m2.
Diseases and pests
Apricot Triumph of the North is resistant to diseases, but nonetheless its diseases affect:
- Monilioz. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus. He spends the winter on damaged parts of the tree, in the spring there are disputes. First, the flowers darken and dry, then shoots and leaves. When fruits appear, the disease affects them. Black dots appear on the fruit, it darkens inside and, as a result, dries out. To prevent disease, cleanliness must be maintained in the circle of the tree; a lot of foliage should not accumulate in the garden. Trees should be carefully examined to identify the disease at an early stage. A good protection against moniliosis is whitewashing of the initial branches and trunk.
- Klestoporiosis. The disease is also fungal. The leaves of the trees are covered with dark spots that become holes. On the shoots spread the wound, from which the gum flows. Copper sulphate or Bordeaux mixture is used to fight with phleoplasia. It is necessary to notice the disease in time and spray the plant with drugs.
- Cytosporosis. In a short time, the branches and shoots of the plant die off, brown specks appear on the foliage and cracks on the bark. It is necessary to remove damaged parts of the tree.
Pests also love apricot. The most common ones are: caterpillar of butterfly-hawthorn, plum moth, aphid. The fight is to destroy insects mechanically. Aphids are destroyed by sprinkling tobacco infusion or soapy water.
For the cultivation of apricot Triumph North does not require special skills and great work. It is enough to choose the seedlings correctly, correctly plant them in fertile soil and ensure regular maintenance.. A few years later, the tree will delight the rapid flowering, and then fragrant tasty fruits. Apricots can not only be eaten immediately, but also make excellent compotes, preserves and jams.
Description of the variety - photo
The northern triumph is widespread in the Central Black Earth zone, because there it was bred by the breeder, doctor of agricultural sciences A.N. Venyaminovym, who worked on the creation of frost-resistant varieties of stone fruit. In the people variety is often called the Triumph of the North.
The variety has an average winter hardiness. Flower buds in the harsh winters still freeze slightly, for this reason the tree does not bear fruit every year.
The harvest is ready to harvest in early August, the Northern Triumph belongs to the late-ripening varieties. The fruit is large (60–70 g), slightly pubescent, on the sunny side with a pink tinge, and on the sunny side - with a green. The flesh is bright orange, sweet, melting in the mouth, the bone is easily separated. And the bones are also edible, the nucleoli resemble the taste of almonds.
The tree is sprawling, long branches depart from the trunk at an angle of 45⁰, under the weight of the crop tend to the ground. Apricot grows to a height of 3–4 m. The variety is zoned for the south of the Central Chernozem zone; it endures the winter to the suburbs with difficulty. But knowing the tricks of growing a crop, you can get a good harvest from this southerner in central Russia, in the Leningrad region, in the Urals, and even in Siberia.
Choosing a place
Under the apricot choose the highest place on the site, because the cold air flows accumulate at the bottom. Also, the site should be sunny and protected from the wind. As a defense, a deaf fence from the north-east side, a wall of a structure, a forest belt will suit. Small seedlings can be covered with shields. No need to fear that on a hill in winter apricot will freeze, on the contrary, its roots should freeze.
Landing plan for stone fruit - 5x3 m. The triumph of the north can grow in solitude, because it sets fruit without pollinators.
Landing pit preparation and landing
The most favorable time for landing the Triumph of the North is in the spring, before bud break. But apricots with a closed root system (in a container) are transplanted from April to October. It is better to plant a tree so that the side facing south when growing the seedling in the container coincides with the location on the site.
The stages of landing the Triumph of the North
- The sides of the landing pit are 50–70 cm, the depth is not less than 70 cm. Even if the root is small, it is necessary to create a fertile “pillow” under it.
- When digging a hole, the top layer of soil is laid in one direction, and clay with impurities in the other.
- Drainage is laid on the bottom of the finished pit with a layer of 20 cm: gravel mixed with branches.
- 2 buckets of humus, 1 kg of lime, 500 g of superphosphate, 200 g of ammonium nitrate, 100 g of potassium salt (2 kg of ash can be replaced) fall asleep over the fertile land taken out of the pit. Everything is well mixed, otherwise the roots of apricot from contact with clean fertilizers can get burned.
- The resulting mixture is filled with a landing pit. The seedling in it is positioned so that the upper part of the roots rises above the soil horizon and when they fall asleep a mound of 10 cm in height is formed, and when the groundwater is close to it, it is 40-50 cm. The root neck and the grafting site must be above the ground, they must not be buried.
- Along the circumference of the hillock they make a watering groove and pour 1-2 buckets of water into it. Water should not leak to the trunk, the roots should not be washed out. With such a landing during rains and melting snow water will not stagnate at the root collar, the crust will not be damaged by ice.
- After watering, the well is mulched with loose material.
Watering - table
Поливать нужно в канавку, диаметр которой в 2 раза меньше диаметра кроны абрикоса. Есть также рекомендации поливать каждую неделю. Всё зависит от погоды и обилия дождей. Абрикос не любит застоя воды. Если вы не сделали дренаж или близко проходят грунтовые воды, то нормы полива сокращают. Зарядковый полив нужен только после сухой осени. Однако и дожди — тоже не показатель. Лучше выкопать ямку глубиной 40–50 см, взять с её дна горсть земли и сжать.Next come according to circumstances:
- if a lump is formed and moisture is squeezed out, then it is not necessary to water,
- a lump is formed without moisture release - the rate is reduced by 30%,
- the earth crumbles - you need to water at the norm.
Norms of dressings for the North Triumph variety - table
In mid-August, it is necessary to feed three years old Triumph preparing for fruit bearing in the coming year. On the branches in the summer flower buds will be formed. Under the young tree contribute 1 bucket of humus and 500 g of ash. Before each feeding a tree is well shed water. The solutions are poured into the groove around the periphery of the crown, and humus and dry ashes are scattered around the trunk without digging.
The main pruning is done in spring before bud break. The tree is formed from the first year of planting. It is necessary to remove all vertically growing shoots, stimulating the growth of side branches. Then the tree will grow low and spreading, it will be more convenient to care for it and harvest it. Also cut out frozen branches (black, gray), directed inside the crown (to the trunk), rubbing against each other. All cuts should be treated with garden pitch or oil paint to eliminate gum treatment.
Apricot is a southern tree growing in conditions of a long summer, but in a harsh climate it is necessary to limit the growth of young shoots so that they can mature before winter. Until mid-July, it is necessary to pinch or cut off all annual gains, their length should not exceed 50 cm.
Wintering rules for the Triumph of the North
- Roots should be well shed by rain or irrigation water.
- The barrel must be whitened to protect the bark from sunburn in February and early spring.
- Do not wrap the entire seedlings or the trunk of an adult tree with covering materials!
- Mulch can be scattered around the periphery of the crown, but not put it near the trunk.
- Snow from the trunk need to shovel, and not vice versa.
The content of the article
- Variety description
- Harvest: collection and storage
- Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
- What are the requirements for seedlings?
- Choosing the right place for planting a tree and some rules of care
- Rules for the care of apricot Triumph North
- Recommendations for feeding the tree
- Pests and diseases affecting the tree
Harvest: collection and storage
Apricots begin to ripen already in the twentieth of July and gradually ripen until mid-August. In the first year of fruiting, you can collect about five kilograms of fruit. Full fruiting occurs four years after landing in the ground. It is quite possible to collect 60 kilograms of apricots from one tree, but years without a crop are typical for this tree.
For to dry fruit or eat them, you should pick apricots are not fully ripe. Optimal for transportation will be harvest at the stage of technical maturity, that is, when the fruit has already gained weight and color, but its pulp is still dense.
When harvesting, you need to take into account the weather. It is best to collect apricots in sunny weather and in the absence of dew. Fruits collected in the cool time, lose their taste and poorly stored. Ideal harvest time is noon or time after 18 pm.
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
This variety has many advantages.which distinguish it from other varieties:
- the early onset of the fruiting period,
- cold resistance
- the density of attachment of apricot to the branches (the fruits do not crumble),
- the core of the bone can be eaten, its taste is very similar to almonds,
- the variety’s self-pollinability allows only one tree to be grown in fruit soda,
- high resistance to various diseases
- beautiful appearance of a flowering tree.
This tree does not have pronounced minuses, but some people consider its fruits not large enough for harvesting for the winter.
The calorie content of apricots is 40 kcal per 100 grams of fruit, dried apricots from this variety contain 240 kcal.
Apricot Triumph can be grown even in the north, but you need to follow some rules and recommendations, namely:
- the right choice of seedlings
- trimming and shaping
So, let's deal with everything in order.
What are the requirements for seedlings?
For planting in the open ground is best suited saplings of trees. They can be purchased in specialized stores, markets or nurseries. When buying, you need to carefully watch ensuring that the entire root system of the young seedling is closed, otherwise it dries. It is great if the seedling is in a special container, in which case it will adapt very quickly and easily to the new soil and environment.
Apricot tree care
If the tree was planted in the spring, then in mid-May you need to start abundantly water it. If this is not done, the crown will grow noticeably slower and the number of buds on the branches will decrease. Experienced gardeners recommend stop watering completely two weeks before the start of the ripening period. THEN apricots will be very large and their pulp juicy. You should not overdo it in the autumn with watering, because you need to give the tree an opportunity to prepare for frosts and cold winters.
Constantly should loosen the soil in pristvolnom circle, as well as fertilize it.
Proper tree care also includes pruning, which should be done in March or October. First you need to remove all damaged and dry branches, and then take up the formation of the crown of the tree. This is done by shortening the side branches. At the same time all places of cuts must be treated with garden pitch. If not, then you can use oil paint. In preparation for the winter, at the beginning of November, it is necessary to whitewash all areas of the lime. It will prevent the development of infections and the harmful effects of direct sunlight.
Recommendations for feeding the tree
Apricot Triumph Northern, like any other plants, requires fertilizer. From tree sizes and its condition depends on the amount of fertilizer used.
Nitrogen fertilizers are recommended to be used three times per season:
- before flowering,
- after flowering,
- after falling off the ovary.
Potash fertilizers should be used during the fruiting period.
Superphosphate should be poured into the grooves made around the tree trunk before and after flowering.
Once in three years, you can feed the tree with manure.
Tree pests and diseases
Although the Triumph of the North is claimed to be resistant to many diseases, but still some can overcome it:
- Monilioz is a fungus that winters in the affected areas, and with the onset of spring it forms spores. With the disease, the flowers first begin to dry and darken, and then the foliage and even the shoots. With the appearance of the fruit, the disease affects them. Black spots appear on the apricot, as a result of the development of the disease, the fruit simply dries out. In order to prevent moniliosis, you need to carefully monitor the cleanliness of the tree trunks. Everything else, you need to periodically inspect the apricot for the disease. This will detect the disease at an early stage of development and will be much easier to deal with.
- Kleastoporioz - fungus is also the causative agent. It appears as dark spots on the foliage, which later turn into holes. On the shoots may appear peculiar wounds, from which gum will trickle. To overcome the disease will help copper sulphate, or you can use the Bordeaux mixture. If the disease was noticed on time and these drugs were used, then it is quite possible to overcome the ailment.
- Cytosporosis. The disease is developing very rapidly, the branches die off, brown spots appear on the leaves, and cracks form on the bark. If this disease is detected, all affected areas must be removed.
The most common apricot-pest pest is the aphid, the caterpillar of the hawthorn and the plum moth. To fight insects can only be mechanically. Only aphis can be destroyed by spraying with soapy water.
In preparation for the winter trees it is recommended to cover with spruce branches, cardboard or even roofing felt.
Reviews of the Triumph of the North
This variety has become a discovery for me. I live in the north of the Moscow region and my tree is developing very well. It is really winter hardy. This winter was -38 and apricot survived it perfectly.
The fruits are very tasty, one apricot weighed about 40 grams. A tree for five years never got sick. Of course, the fruits are no match for the southern varieties, but for our climate it is an excellent variety. This is the best apricot that grows in my garden.
I chose this tree by descriptions and characteristics. It was very important to me that the variety was self-pollinated and frost-resistant. Triumph of the North approached the parameters I needed like no other.
I liked its fruits, quite juicy and sweet. Compote apricot turned out just wonderful. The tree is extremely prolific. When it blooms, it is impossible to pass by. This is just great. In general, a good apricot, I advise everyone.
In order to grow apricot North Triumph on your site, you do not need to have special knowledge and skills. It will be quite enough to know some rules of how to choose a sapling, how to plant and care for a tree. Already a few years later, the young tree will thank its owner with a rich, beautiful flowering and a rich harvest.
These apricots are great for both preservation and fresh consumption. The jam of them turns out just amazingly tasty and fragrant.
Description varieties Triumph North
Initially, the Triumph of the North was zoned in the south of the Central Black Earth zone, and later spread to the territory of central Russia, the Urals and Siberia. This variety grows well and bears fruit in the Moscow region and Leningrad region.
The variety is also known as the Triumph of the North.
Northern triumph bears fruit well in many regions of Russia
The tree is tall (up to 4 m), with thick skeletal branches, spreading. The leaves are large, pointed.
The North Triumph matures in late July - early August. Fruits are larger than other northern varieties, their weight reaches 60 g. They have a yellow-orange color with a bright red blush. Peel slightly pubescent and taste sour. The flesh is orange, sweet, tender, melting in the mouth. The nucleus of the bone is edible, with a delicate almond flavor.
For the varieties of apricots Triumph northern suitable light, well aerated soil with an acidity index pH 6-7. Trees need a lot of sun, stagnant moisture is contraindicated. The groundwater level must be at least 2 m.
Apricot tree needs a lot of sun
Stepwise landing process
- Place the seedling in the hole so that the root neck is flush with the surface.
In the pit, the seedling should be placed so that the root neck is flush with the surface.
After compacting the soil, the seedling needs to be watered with 2-3 buckets of water.
When planting several plants, the distance between them is at least 5 m.
Caring for a tree consists of timely watering, proper dressing, prevention of diseases and pests.
The first time after planting and before full rooting, it is advisable to inspect the seedling every day and water it abundantly so that the earth remains wet.
Planted saplings and mature trees moisten the entire first half of the summer before fruit is poured. Irrigation is necessary every two weeks (taking into account the weather). For a young tree, the irrigation rate is 2–3 buckets, for an adult - 4–6. It must be remembered that the root system of apricot is twice the area of the crown in area, and distribute the water evenly. Moisture should not stagnate in a wheel circle. In dry times it is good to spray and crown. To conduct watering in the morning or evening.
For one watering of an adult tree 40–60 l of water are required.
In August, the hydration is stopped, so that excess water does not interfere with the preparation for the winter. In the autumn, after a massive yellowing of the leaves, they conduct abundant water recharge irrigation. Pour 70–80 liters of water per 1 m 2 of the crown projection to moisten a meter layer of soil.
Adequate nutrition can not only ensure the harvest of pears, but also protect the plant from diseases.
- In the spring, even in the snow, add urea to the tree circles according to the instructions on the package. Repeat after flowering and after dropping excessive ovary.
- Potassium fertilizers are applied during the period of fruit ripening and in the fall at the end of the growing season at a rate of 40 g per 1 m 2, phosphorus fertilizers are applied to tree trunks before and after flowering at 40–50 g per 1 m 2.
- It is useful to combine irrigation of apricot trees with top dressing of slurry or infusion of chicken manure.
- In the autumn, at the end of the growing season, add chalk, lime, dolomite flour or wood ash to the tree trunk circle at the rate of 0.5 l per 1 m 2.
- In the spring and autumn to bring compost or humus under the barrel in the amount of 1 bucket per 1 m 2.
Pruning apricot trees
Pruning apricots carried out in the spring before the blooming of the leaves. In the first 4 years of life before the onset of fruiting, the trees give a large annual increase. If you do not carry out pruning, by the beginning of fruiting the tree will be excessively thickened. During the time before fruiting, it is important to form a crown. If you do not cut the seedling at all, it will grow up to a height of 4 m and have a narrow crown. This is inconvenient for maintenance and harvesting.
Apricot Tree Crown Formation
- The next spring after planting, we prune the seedling's trunk to one third of the length, approximately at a height of 90 cm from the ground. If the tree has side branches, choose from them the two strongest from different sides of the trunk and also pruned by one third. Thus, we received a trunk and two skeletal branches.
- For the second spring, we prune all the damaged and frostbitten branches at the tree, as well as those that grow vertically upwards or inside the crown. At the top of the trunk, where the cut was made, two branches grew from the down buds. We choose the stronger one and shorten it by one third, and cut off the second, as gardeners say, “on the ring” (so that there is no hemp left on the trunk). From the remaining shoots on the trunk, select two more - these will be new skeletal branches. They also need to be shortened by one third, and the rest of the growth from the trunk removed. We perform the same procedure with our new skeletal branches: we leave 2–3 lateral shoots on them, which we also shorten.
- The same process is carried out in the third and fourth year. We form 4 or 6 skeletal branches and a smooth spherical crown.
- When the tree enters the fruiting period, the growth of the shoots will slow. But you should still prune their tops for the formation of young fruit branches. It is also necessary to remove damaged, twisted, misdirected branches, cut out extra shoots that shade the middle of the crown.
History of Apricot Triumph North
Apricot is bred in the city of Michurinsk, Tambov Region, by the breeder A.N. Venyaminovym still in 1938. This is the result of the crossing of a large-fruited southern variety Red-cheeked and early Trans-Baikal northern. In 1954, saplings and cuttings were brought to Khabarovsk (Far East). Here they were grafted in the crown and on apricot seedlings The Best Michurinsky. Over time, Triumph of the North fully justified its name; it successfully conquered the hearts of Russian gardeners and spread even beyond its borders. In particular, residents of Latvia say that this unpretentious variety is well known and actively grown.
Apricot Variety Triumph Northern grows a large and spreading tree
How to plant apricot
Famous and reputable gardeners Chuguev (Smolensk), Zhelezov (Sayanogorsk) and Baikal, whose breeding achievements in the field of Siberian gardening got into the Guinness Book, have long been tested in their nurseries and offer us to plant seedlings not in planting holes, but on hills. Especially this agricultural technology is relevant in relation to apricots. Their root neck is not only not allowed to be buried, but it is also strictly forbidden to make irrigation holes around it, to lay trunks with mulch, spud, etc.
Beginners often confuse two concepts: the root neck and the site of vaccination. The root neck is a conditional border, below which roots grow, and above it is the elevated part. In other words: this is the place of origin of the uppermost root. The vaccination is located a few centimeters higher, the trunk here has a thickening and noticeable curvature.
The root neck of the apricot tree should be open, otherwise the plant starts to rot and dies
If the bottom of the trunk is in a humid environment, then the bark and wood on it begin to rot around the ring, food does not come from the roots, the tree dies. Especially dangerous and often happens stagnation of water in the spring, when the snow melts. Caring gardeners try to cover the apricot for the winter, sprinkle it with earth and humus, wrap it with roofing-paper and thereby finally destroy their trees. However, not realizing this, in the spring they say that their apricots were frozen out.
Apricot seedlings located on a hill are not afraid of thaw and the returning frosts
In the spring as a result of snow melting, in the summer and autumn during rains and irrigations your apricot should not stand in a pool. Its base should rise above the soil and be dry. To achieve this, choose the right planting agrotechnology, use the positive experience of professionals.
The best place for an apricot is the southern slope or the southern side of the fence, house, farm building.
In the middle band, apricots are best planted in the spring. Место выбирайте самое солнечное, защищённое от холодных северных ветров. Оптимальное расположение — с южной стороны строения, забора, стены из других плодовых деревьев, а лучше всего — на южном склоне, угол которого не менее 10°. На таком месте и корневая шейка будет сухой, и корни зимой не вымерзнут. Но если у вас ровный участок, то это не причина отказываться от выращивания абрикосов. Вы можете сделать искусственный холм.
Технология посадки абрикоса по Железову, Байкалову и Чугуеву
Этапы посадки абрикоса по технологии Железова, Байкалова и Чугуева:
- На месте посадки абрикоса сделайте не яму, а насыпь. Use for this a loose soil mixture, for example, mix garden or sod land with humus, compost, and coarse-grained river sand in equal proportions. Do not use manure. Peat is also unsuitable because it acidifies the soil, and apricot needs a neutral environment.
- Artificial mound tamp. Its top should rise only 50 cm above the level of the soil in the garden, and its diameter should reach 1.5–2 m.
- At the top, make the hole a depth equal to 1/3 of the length of the seedling root. Pour into it as you absorb 1-2 buckets of water.
- Bring an additional 2-3 buckets of soil mixture to the hole.
- Place the seedling in the spilled hole and, holding it in the weight so that the roots remain straightened, pour the whole root to the level of the root neck with the prepared soil. No holes and grooves for irrigation do not need.
- Even the slopes so that they gently move away from the trunk - no more than 45⁰ relative to the horizon of the land on the plot.
- To consolidate the walls of the hill, sow perennial low-growing grass with short roots. Glands advises under the crowns to grow povitsu shoots. It forms a thickest carpet, well protecting apricot roots in winter from freezing.
In the same way, plant another 1–2 saplings of other varieties to ensure good pollination for the Triumph. The distance between the trees is 4–5 m.
In the center of the prepared mound a small hole is dug, the seedling root is immersed in it for about a third, the rest of the root is filled up on top with an additional portion of the ground
It is important to correctly orient the seedling relative to the cardinal points. In fruit nurseries usually on the side of the trunk, facing the south, put a mark. If it is not, then try to determine for yourself: on the south side, the bark is brighter and lighter than on the north. If you do not take into account this feature and plant a tree on the wrong side of the sun, it will take a long time to take root, it may die. However, when purchasing, specify the purpose of the tag - often for the convenience of gardeners, it also marks the location of the root collar.
If there is a southern slope on the plot, then plant it according to the standard scheme - into a pit 60 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter. Fill it with a mixture of earth and humus in a 2: 1 ratio. For irrigation do not well, and groove on the periphery of the crown.
Features care apricot Triumph North
Immediately after planting, shorten the main stem by a third for branching and remove all vertically growing branches. The following years continue just such a formation: adjust the height of the tree, removing or shortening the growing upwards shoots. As a result, fruiting will move to the side branches, the crown will turn out sprawling, will be well ventilated and illuminated.
Formation of the crown according to the trenchless scheme will not allow fruiting to a greater height, it will be more convenient to care for apricots
How to water apricot
Watering is needed during flowering and in July, when the fruits are actively growing, but at least 2 weeks are left before their maturation begins. Pour 2–3 buckets under one young tree, and 3 buckets for each square meter of the trunk circle under an adult. In late autumn, in the absence of rain, you need water-charging watering at a rate of 1.5 times more than usual.
Water the apricot is necessary around the perimeter of the circle around the trunk, not falling on the tree trunk
Apricot on a hill overgrown with turf, at a young age can be watered from a watering can, like a lawn, but abundant. And around the adult tree on the perimeter of the crown before watering make numerous punctures with a pitchfork or crowbar. Then the water will not spread, and leak to the roots. Do not water apricots in August, an excess of water during this period provokes a strong growth of annual shoots, they do not have time to mature for the winter, the trees freeze slightly.
Video: What is water-charging irrigation and how to do it
Triumph northern enough three dressings for the season. In the spring, for growing the leaves and twigs, fertilizers with a high nitrogen content are needed; during budding and flowering, potassium and microelements; in the fall, to increase the winter resistance, phosphorus and potassium.
Ash for dressing use fresh. If she has been in the rain or stored in high humidity, then she no longer carries any nutritional value and does not alkalize the soil, but serves only as a soil disintegrant.
You will noticeably facilitate your work if you use ready-made complex fertilizers for different seasons.
Table: dates and rates of fertilizer application
- urea solution: 30 g per 10 l of water,
- infusion of bird droppings, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20,
- mullein infusion - 1:10.
Choose one of these fertilizers. Consumption of liquid top dressing is the same as water when watering.
- purchased complex fertilizers for fruit crops: Agricola, Pure leaf, Fertika and others,
- an infusion of weeds, fermented for a week and diluted with water 1: 5,
- ash infusion: 2 l in 10 l of water is infused per day, then 1 l of the solution obtained is diluted in a bucket of water.
- wood ash: 0.5 kg for one young tree and from 1.5 kg for an adult. Scatter on a circle and water,
- superphosphate - 70–100 g and potassium sulfate - 150 g under one tree. Make a groove or several holes 15 cm deep around the crown perimeter, distribute the fertilizer, pour it and level it.
To protect the Triumph of the North from monilioz and other fungal diseases, perform the following agricultural practices:
- in the spring, process the apricot and the ground under it with one of the following preparations: Bordeaux liquid (1% over the leaves, 3% before bud break), HOM (40 g per 10 l of water), Skor (2 ml per 10 l of water), Chorus (2g per 10 l) or other fungicide. Repeat processing after 7–10 days,
- in the summer, collect all the grapes, weed out, cut and burn diseased twigs,
- in the fall, rake and burn all the fallen leaves. Treat the tree with the same preparations as in the spring.
Monilioz causes a fungus that infects a tree during flowering and continues to inhibit it throughout the growing season.
When choosing a drug for diseases, pay attention to the nature of its effects: systemic - penetrates the leaves and spreads throughout the plant or local - works only where the solution has got. Also, some tools are effective only at specific temperatures.
Preparing apricot for winter
In preparation for winter, apricot is not enough to feed phosphate-potassium fertilizers and water well, it requires shelter from frost and rodents. When the daytime temperature drops to 0 ° C, cover the young saplings as a whole, using frames in the form of a tent and agrofibre.
Prered by the onset of frost, young apricot seedlings must be completely covered with agrofiber
Trunks of mature trees and all skeletal branches to a height of 1.5-2 m from the ground whitewash garden lime. Shtamb tie the spruce branches with needles down. In addition, you need to protect the roots, for this cover tree trunks with dry straw, hay, and spruce branches. Do not fall asleep the base of the trunk, move 15–20 cm away from it. Early in the spring, when the thermometer reaches the level of 0 ... +5 ° C, remove the covers.
Reviews of the Triumph of the North
Last year, planted apricot varieties Triumph North. In the middle of summer, ruthlessly removed the top almost by a meter, since the sapling grew by 3 meters (I don’t know how I had the courage for such a feat). In the winter shook spunbond and sugar bags. A week ago, the shelter took off, it turned out that all the kidneys are alive, which made me happy.
On the next plot of 5 years grows apricot varieties Triumph north. A tall, strong tree, this summer they collected about 3 kg of fruits, quite large and tasty. IMHO, this variety is most suitable for our conditions.
Traveled for cuttings of varietal cherries and cherries to a familiar gardener and at the end of a set of cuttings suddenly noticed the only fruit of the triumph of the north on a high uterine tree. To the surprise of the very owner of the garden, who walks beside him every day. This, apparently, is connected with my aiming gaze to the height as an experienced dovecap. Apricot was ripe, we tasted it and tasted it. Actually, I really liked the taste, sweet with very tasty sourness, unrealistically fragrant, maybe a little too mealy due to dry weather and over-ripeness. Since we were in a hurry, weren't weighed a single-handed one, but the bone was large, more than 3 grams, absolutely clean, without adhering flesh. In a word, I really liked it, I hope, in another year, God will let the weather eat its own. I can assure you that this is one of the most delicious apricots in my life. The first impression is the harmony of sweet and sour, plus flavor.
I have Red-cheeked from the fair, Rattle and Triumph of the North, planted in the spring of 14g. from the purchase of Michurinsky nursery. Triumph Northern fruit in the summer of 16g. Rattles abundantly blossomed, but did not bear fruit, but managed to pollinate Triumph. But I read a lot, that Triumph is self-fruiting, maybe that's why it was fruiting. Apricots are very tasty. Trees for 3 years increased by 4 meters.
In 2015, planted the Triumph of the North and Saratov Ruby. Last year, both disappeared. I no longer want to try fate, and the price stops ...
Strangely enough, in my field, domestic varieties (the most difficult conditions - lowland, high groundwater, lack of shelter from blowing) just froze out (south of Minsk, 115 km. On the Slutsk highway). But the Russian has shown well. This is “Lel” (one of the best), and especially “Triumph of the North” - the last one and it showed excellent survival among friends.
Northern triumph grows well and bears fruit in areas with mild winters. An important point in growing is planting. The root neck throughout the life of the tree should be dry and well ventilated. Pay special attention to the prevention and control of diseases. The rest of the care does not differ from the standard for apricots.
Description of the Northern Triumph
The authorship of this variety is attributed to A. N. Venyaminov, who crossed the southern Red-cheeked and Trans-Baikal Early Northern. This was done in the Central Black Earth region, where the variety was subsequently zoned. However, subsequent tests proved the suitability of this variety for cultivation in central Russia, as well as in the Urals and Siberia.
The crown of the North Triumph variety is spreading and wide, and the tree itself grows up to 4 meters in height
The tree of the Northern triumph is tall, in height can reach four meters, with a spreading crown. Skeletal branches are thick, depart from the trunk at an angle of 45 degrees. On them are many smaller branches, richly dotted with large leaves with pointed ends.
Northern triumph blooms earlier than other varieties and decorates any part with its flowering, so the gardener already has reasons for a positive mood in spring.
Here it is - the bloom of the Northern triumph
The fruits are oval-round, the peel thickness is medium, with a small edge. They are somewhat similar to the fruits of cherry plum, which is typical of most northern varieties. The primary color in the mature state is yellow-orange with small light green spots. On some fruits, a crimson blush sometimes appears. The peel is acidic in taste, but the flesh is juicy, tender and sweet. The stone is large, easily separated from the pulp, orange. According to its taste, the variety may be a little inferior to the southern, but it is suitable both for fresh use and for preservation.
The variety is artificially bred, therefore the average size of the fruit is 25-30 grams, but there are individual specimens up to 50-60 grams.
Northern triumph skoroplodin - the first crop is removed for 3-4 year after planting. Productivity is high - up to 64 kg of fruits can be collected from one tree. However, fruiting cannot be called stable - it will not work out every year for an excellent result, the success of this tree alternates with recessions.
Northern Triumph shows its best yields in conditions of Central Russia, in particular, in the Moscow region
The branches can tolerate frosts up to -40 degrees, but they do not respond well to sudden changes in temperature. But flower buds have only average frost resistance. The root system does not go deep into the earth more than 40 centimeters.
With early watering 2-3 weeks before harvest, fruits grow larger
The tree lives up to 25 years and is characterized by good resistance to many diseases. Most likely the defeat of such diseases as cytosporosis, moniliasis, verticillus and klesterosporiosis.
Other winter hardy apricot varieties
In addition to the Northern triumph, there are other varieties that are suitable for cultivation in the northern and central regions of Russia:
- Iceberg - grows up to 3 meters in height. Oval-round fruits have an average size of 30 grams and tender, juicy flesh, sweet and sour.
- Alyosha - a tree similar to the Northern Triumph - up to 4 meters with a wide spreading crown. Oval fruits reach a weight of 20 grams, have a yellow color with a faint blush. The flesh is tender, with a slight sourness.
- Lel - up to 3 meters, with a rare crown. The fruits are elongated, there is a slight sour taste in taste. In the central regions of Russia produces the greatest yields.
- Success is a variety of late ripening, yields good yields and is resistant to even severe frosts. Fruits of medium size are covered with dot blush. Pulp sweet and sour. The best growing regions are the Central and Central Black Earth regions.
- Michurinets is self-infertile with large oval fruits (up to 40 g) of bright orange color and juicy flesh with a slight sourness. It also shows itself well in the Central and Central Black Earth regions.
- Kichiginsky - late ripening, but gives excellent yields. The fruits are small, reach a weight of 15 grams, the flesh is tender and juicy, with a slight sourness. It can be successfully grown in the Volga-Vyatka, West Siberian and Ural regions.
Apricot requires a well-lit place - it affects the yield and taste of the fruit - the degree of their sugar content. However, with all its winter hardiness, it is better to protect this crop from cold and drafts. That is why apricot is recommended to plant next to the garden buildings - a house, barn, bath or fence. An ideal option is a place protected from the north by a building with a brick wall, which in summer will heat up in the sun and give up its heat to the tree.
Consider the fact that apricot does not like stagnant water. Groundwater should be at a depth of at least 1.5-2 meters. However, in the case of the Northern Triumph, the aquifer may be higher, given not the greatest penetration of the roots. However, if the water on the plot is too close to the ground, it is better to create good drainage or plant a tree on a hill.
Soil apricot acidity should be closer to neutral
The best soil for apricot - light sandy loam and loam. Heavy clay or sandy soil will not allow it to develop. Acidity (pH) should be between 7.0 and 7.5, that is, close to neutral. If the indicator is elevated, then apricot often has acupuncture with bone cracking.
You can plant in the spring (if the seedling has an open root system) at the end of April - before bud break. For trees grown in containers, planting is possible in the fall - in October. In the Urals and Siberia, springtime planting may move closer to summer due to climatic conditions.
An important rule is to give apricot at least a month to take root in warm conditions.
For apricot to take root well and bear fruit, after planting it must have time to get used to it in warm conditions.
The landing pit is prepared in advance - in the fall, if landing in the spring, and in a month (or at least two weeks), in the fall. The dimensions of the pit are 70 cm in diameter and in depth. Since the width of the root system is almost twice the width of the crown, it is recommended to keep at least five meters between the trees.
The soil for planting should be loose, so gravel or gravel should be laid at the bottom of the pit as drainage, and from above we put in a nutrient mixture consisting of the upper fertile layer of earth, humus and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Potassium chloride is mixed with them - 20 g, 1 glass of ash and superphosphate - 30-40 g. The whole mixture is sprinkled with a layer of earth to prevent direct contact of the roots of the plant with fertilizers. We drive a garter peg into the middle of the pit, and we put a seedling on the formed mound and begin to fill the pit. It is better to carry out planting together, so that one person could hold the tree for the shtamb and the other fill the ground. Periodically sapling shaken to prevent voids between the roots.
Apricot needs to be watered not only after planting, but also during the active growth of the crown
When the pit is filled with earth, it is compacted and made a watering circle. The tree is watered with 20-30 liters of water, after which the root neck should level with the ground.
It happens that the deadline for planting apricot is suitable, and the air temperature is not yet optimal - in this case, the seedling is planted like a slate - at an angle of 40 degrees to the ground, which will allow it to receive more heat. Krona at the same time sent to the south side.
Для подстраховки и ради закрепления дерева в сланцевом положении его ветки пришпиливают крючками к земле, а ранней весной лишние ветви вырезают «на кольцо».
Уход за деревом
В первые годы жизни абрикос особенно нуждается в поливе. Особенно влага необходима дереву в период с мая по июнь, когда активно растёт крона. В этот период дерево поливают 4-5 раз в месяц, используя на одно дерево несколько вёдер воды. Не повредят и опрыскивания водой, которые нужно производить в утренние или вечерние часы, если стоит солнечная погода, или в течение дня, если солнце скрыто за тучами. Дождевание является хорошим способом доставить влагу ко всем частям растения. If you do not supply the aerial part of the apricot with water, then there will be a periodicity of fruiting associated with a reduction in the number of flower buds. It will be useful to watering and 2-3 weeks before the ripening of the fruit - this will increase their size. But closer to the fall, watering is gradually reduced to zero, because otherwise the apricot will continue to build shoots and will not have time to hibernate before the onset of frost. The only exception is dry weather - before frosts, it is necessary to sate the tree with water so that the roots do not go for hibernation in dry land.
Apricot especially needs watering the first years of life
Top dressing is very important for apricot, which is very sensitive to the lack of any of the necessary trace elements. Organic fertilizers must be applied every 3-5 years, and mineral fertilizers are applied every year.
Urea turns out to be very useful, 40 grams of which are added several times - before flowering, after it, and also during the fall of the ovaries. In September, superphosphate (150 g) and 40% potassium salt (100 g) are helpful.
In late autumn or early spring, organic matter is used, for example, manure (4 kg per 1 sq. M.), Which is used every 2-3 years, or compost (5-6 kg per 1 sq. M.). Chicken dung, which contains a lot of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, is made at the rate of 300 grams per 1 square. m., adding to it compost.
Apricot is sensitive to nutritional deficiencies, and therefore regular feeding is especially needed
If the plant is deficient in boron, the leaves on the new shoots begin to grow weakly, the number of flowers and fruits drops sharply, and brown spots are formed on the pulp. To cope with this trouble helps watering boric solution, consisting of 1 tbsp. l boric acid diluted in 10 liters of water. It is carried out 2-3 times during the growing season.
Possible diseases and their treatment
Despite the fact that the Northern Triumph variety, compared to other varieties, is sufficiently resistant to common diseases, one should not exclude the possibility of its being affected by moniliosis or catastrophia.
Moniliasis or fruit rot is easy to recognize - the fruit turns brown and is covered with dots of cream or gray - concentrations of mushroom spores. In cool and humid conditions, the disease progresses rapidly, and spores are easily carried by the wind, and the development of the disease can occur in cold weather. Therefore, even if a tree afflicted with this ailment was noticed in the neighboring plots, urgently start protecting your plants.
Monilioz easily spreads from one fruit to another, therefore, only a proven and absolutely healthy crop should be stored for storage.
As a disease prevention, the trunk circle always keeps it clean from weeds, does not allow fallen leaves to linger on the ground, and whitewash the trunk and beginnings of skeletal branches. If the fruit rot settled on apricot, you can apply spraying Bordeaux liquid during the growing season - 100 grams of copper sulfate and 100 grams of lime per 10 liters of water. It copes well with moniliosis and the drug Chorus (2 grams per 10 liters), which is treated with wood before flowering, and then several more times with an interval of 7-10 days.
Klesterosporiosis is also a common disease, which is found by spots on the leaves, which eventually turn into holes. Due to this phenomenon, the disease received a second name. — "Perforated spotting". Shoots crack, begins to gamble. You can get rid of this scourge by spraying Bordeaux mixture and copper sulphate (50-100 grams per 10 liters of water). The treatment is carried out in early spring before bud break, spending from 2 to 5 liters of solution per tree.
Klesterosporiosis is not for nothing called "perforated spotting"
Of the pests on the apricot tree most often notice aphid, plum moth and butterfly-shaped caterpillar haws. In this case, the removal of the pest occurs mechanically - by inspecting the tree, collecting or shaking the caterpillars on the ground, where they are destroyed. You can get rid of aphids with Bordeaux liquid. Its 3% solution (300 grams of copper sulfate and 400 grams of lime per 10 liters) is used for dormant buds, 2% (200 grams of copper sulfate and 250 grams of lime per 10 liters) when they are dissolved, and 1% (100 grams of copper sulphate and 150 grams of lime per 10 liters) on vegetative shoots. Also use 0.3% karbofos (30 grams per 10 liters). From the moth (and from other caterpillars) get rid with the help of the drug Entobacterin (60-100 grams per 10 liters), used during the growing season twice with a difference of 7 - 8 days.
On the Internet you can find a lot of reviews about the Northern Triumph, from which you can learn about the winter hardiness of the tree, as well as its yield and growth features. Here are some reviews about the variety.
The variety was very successful for the Middle Band. Even in my northern part of the Moscow region, the variety shows excellent winter hardiness of both skeletal branches and fruit buds that survived -37 this winter. Bloomed for 3 years after vaccination on a seedling dwarf.
Taste is good, the average size of a fruit is 40 grams. The diseases are practically not damaged, but before monilioz it is just like other apricots. Sugar is gaining well. Of course, in terms of taste, it doesn’t compare with good southern varieties, but very good for the Middle Strip. In comparison with other varieties growing in my he is the best.
Triumph to the Northern frost in -22 at all, breeds after -32 degrees.
On the next plot of 5 years grows apricot varieties Triumph north. A tall, strong tree, this summer they gathered about 3 kg of fruits, rather large and tasty, from it. To all other virtues, he is also self-fertile. IMHO, this variety is most suitable for our conditions.
Apricot Northern Triumph is well established in parts of Central Russia, as well as in the northern regions. Its high yield, combined with good frost resistance, attracts to its side more and more gardeners, who are convinced that it is possible to grow southern fruit in those regions where harsh winters reign.